Discovering 16th century Firenze

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January 20, 2005

BEFORE THE HISTORY LESSON COMES THE CONTEMPORARY UPDATES:

What I learn from watching Italian TV:
-January 12, 1984 Florence hit -23 degrees centigrade, the lowest it has ever been.
-The lovely young, half naked, ladies on TV are obviously more concerned with their sparkling bosoms and lusciously coiffed locks whether they are delivering the evening news, morning weather, or dancing a jig between TV programs.

Other observations:
-Young Italians don’t seem to have the same rhythm as we Americans do, but they DO dance their own “thang”. Not only do they dance with little or no self-consciousness, their sense of style seems to run along this concept as well. Men and women, young and old, experiment with coloring their hair, wearing it long, short, shaved, spiked, highlighted, spray painted as well as with clothing variations (leg warmers, blue tights, red sweaters, black leather boots) and have an obsession with sparkle (rhinestones galore). I admire this sense of adventurism.

-Florence revives on the weekends, when streets are filled day and night. During the week, people don’t mingle and don’t sight see. At 2pm on my way to work, I often forget that many stores are closed for the early afternoon, and on Mondays many stores are closed altogether.

-My new street, in the center of Florence, is quite multicultural. Next door is a South American Cultural Center, across the street is an African hair and nail salon. Within 2 minutes walk there is a very hip, progressive bar, 4 bakeries, a Dolceria (every sweet you can imagine, along with wine and bisquits, marinating olive oil and 200 year old grappa), laundry mat, internet point, 2 parks, 3 churches, 4 farmacie (farmacies). I am a 10 minute walk to San Marco, Santa Maria Novella train station and the Duomo. On the block there is an art gallery, a clothing repair shop (size of a closet with an old sewing machine in front, but with beautifully ancient clothing hanging on bars against the wall), handmade jewelry store, ethnic minimart, antique car repair shop and an amazing Panetteria (bakery) that will up to go (riscalda e porta via) their flat breads baked with zucchini and parmesian, sliced potato and rosemary, or black olive and garlic.

-At 7:30am, I hear the deep chiming of church bells again and I am happy to hear their greeting.

-The city is full of gypsies. There are small children (8 years old) and old women (some in their 70’s), all of whom not only beg, but will go as far as cry heart-wrenchingly and fall on their knees in front of you (if you are not wise enough to ignore them from the very beginning) begging you for your help. I have learned NOT to look and not to question.


What I am learning in school:
-In school, I am fortunate again to have an excellent teacher, and class full of proficient speakers. (20 percent of us American, 60 % Chinese or Japanese, the others from Eastern Europe and my friend, an Australian.)

La mia insegnante e molto brava, e siamo fortunati averla. Ogni giorno, studiamo la grammatical, nuove parole, scriviamo e parliamo l’uno a l’altro almeno di 15 minuti. Ogni sera, ho quasi 30 minuti di fare i miei compiti. Cerco per le parole dificile nell dizionario, e spero che le ricordo. Ogni giovedi, noi frequentiamo “Laboratorio” in cui ascoltiamo delle conversazione tra le persone italiane. Quest e dificilissimo, ma importante per noi a imperare e capire le parole detto (naturale, in moda italiana) e non solo scritto.

NOW FOR SOME ART HISTORY:
-This past week I went to 3 lectures on the history of Firenze, mostly in the 1500’s, very beginning of the 17th century. The professor, although at first looked a bit “heavy” and serious, proved to be quite interesting, helpful and naturally knowledgeable. Speaking clearly and well-pronounced, I understood a good 90% and took notes (and sketches).

IL CORRIDORIO VASARI: A young Francesco dei Medici (son of Cosimo I) married (for political reasons of course) a Giovana Asburgo (opening an Austrian alliance) and lived in the Pitti Palace (which is across the river Arno), which was connected to the Palazzo Vecchio (next to what is now the Uffizi, was originally all UFFICI or offices) by a LONG enclosed corridor that travels through the Uffizi, across the Ponte Vecchio (around a very old Medici tower, now inhabited by Armani) and up the hill to the Palace. The corridor (Corridorio) was built by Giorgio Vasari over 500 years ago.

FAMOUS INHABITANTS: Georgio Armani ownS an apartment in a tower on the famous bridge that spans the Arno, called the Ponte Vecchio. The old corridor that allows safe passage from the Palazzo Vecchio (where business was done) to their palace, was devasted in the mid 1900’s, as well as most of the surrounding houses. And supposedly in the 30’s, Hitler admired the Ponte Vecchio and it was spared destruction.

FRANCESCO DE MEDICI-UNLIKE ANY OTHER PRINCE: This Francesco dei Medici, however, is an interesting Gran Ducca (the title bestowed first on his father, and then he himself was entitled), with a passion for nature, science and creativity. In paintings, he is sometimese depicted as a worker, with his sleeves rolled up, and his hands busy with experiements of all sorts-chemical, physical. His favorite architect and friend, BUONTALENTI, reflected this creativity in his constructions-adding symbols in the steps, arches and eaves of the many buildings (edifici) and monuments-the goat represented Francesco (whose zodiac was the Ariete) and the turtle, the symbol of government, the monkey, symbol of curiosity.

GROTTE, NATURE AND THE SEARCH FOR TRUTH: In the gardens behind the Palazzo Pitti (Giardini Boboli) there is evidence of this passion for nature and mans relationship to it. Inset into the walls are dark, cave-lik,e shallow rooms called GROTTE. Here were the original sculptures by Michelangelo, (le prigioni), which represented the urge to break free of oppression (also the oppression of nature). Harmony of the conscious mind is to know and understand nature. The inside of these GROTTE are stone and have the feeling of the unfinished, textured, imperfect hand. Other materials often used by BUONTALENTI-shells of all sizes and shapes, positioned beautifully and symmetrically in various complicated designs.

LANGUAGE STUDIES: Francesco also created Accademia della Crusco (crusco is the thin skin around the grain, which is removed before the grain is pulverized to make a pure, white farina or flour) in which took place the study of Italian, perfect Italian (the grain without the crusca representing the true and pure language, scelto (chosen) particularmente (particularly).

GOSSIP: The brother of Francesco becomes the Gran Duca after he dies (as Giovana Asburgo has only daughters and his mistress, Bianca, has one son, of course illegitimate! This illegitimate son, Antonio, is denounced by Ferdinando (the brother of Francesco) and so has little hope of attaining the title.

BROTHER OF FRANCESCO, FERNANDO, ANOTHER MEDICI RESPONSIBLE FOR GREAT GROWTH IN ITALY: Ferdinando, another intelligent Medici, interested in commerse, language, culture, art, etc, marries Christina di Lorraine (Lorena) of France. Gran Duca Ferdinando also likes commerce with the Americas, and imports beans, tomatoes (in italy the tomatoe is used as a decorative plant) potatoes and even the turkey. (And thus fagioli, or beans, tomatoes, and potatoes become a staple of northern Italian cuisine). He also takes advantage of the natural mineral products in Tuscany-iron, mercury, silver. Produces coins, encourages artigiani.

MILITARY PRESENCE: Forte Belvedere, which is the huge fortress overlooking the city, was built to mainly FOOL the people and protect the Medici family in Palazzi Pitti,.There was a secret door from which the family could leave their palace, wander through their private gardens, and enter the fortress silently. Cannons inside the fort are aimed for center Firenze, preventing rebellion as the Medici family also had military control (Medici’s, a banking family originally, had descendents as bankers, architects, captains, etc.)

NEW SYMBOLS: The symbol of Ferdinando-the bee, a monarch unable to sting, but well in control of her army. Ferdinand builds a fleet that leaves the coast of Livorno to sail north to import GRAIN, of which he controls of the price, and of which becomes the greatest import. Livorno become a huge port town, but without people. So in the late 1500’s, he sends an announcement to all people (desperate for inhabitants to keep this port town running) that those who arrive to Livorno are DECLARED A NEW LIFE! And so, arrive persons of every angle and corner, the thieves, the protestants, the jews, muslims, assassins, tutti. Livorno becomes quite an INTERNATIONAL city.

CAVALLO: The first public sculpture with a figure seated upon a horse, is of Cosimo I, in Piazza Signoria. This is the first in Firenze, by sculptore Giambologna. I couldn’t help but photograph it along side the FORD commercial, typical of these ancient cities to present and glorify the old and the new in parallel means.


ALONG WITH THIS TRAVELBLOG ARE SOME PHOTOS OF THE BUILDINGS AND AREAS I REFER TO ABOVE….HOPEFULLY SOMEWHAT COMPREHENDIBLE!!! It is enlightening to walk around Florence with some knowledge of its history and details.

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Photos

Palazzo Vecchio-16th century Administration
The marriage of Francesco dei Medici and Giuliana Asburgo took place inside this Palace-which is now also used to adminster civil ceremonies.

Door near Uffizi-built by Francesco
To the right is a bucca or hole, in which persons could write letters and leave their complaints and wishes for the Gran Duca to read (Francesco). At the top of the door is a split arch, then reunited with its opposite ends; a piece of creative and unique architecture particular to Buontalenti.

Comments

[anonymous]

la storia è un camminare nel passato
Conoscendo la storia di Firenze, anche i ciottoli ti parleranno e riveleranno i segreti del passato, e cosi' i tuoi passi per le vie della città saranno sempre una lezione ed una gioia. - Aries