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Published: June 26th 2017
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Geo: 8.99427, -79.5188
On Tuesday, Nov 3rd we arrived at the entrance to the Panama Canal. For us this was a much anticipated highlight of the cruise, one of the main reasons we had chosen this particular trip. We were up early and on deck about 6-30am. We were due to pick up the pilot at this time and then reach the first of the locks at 8am. We could see the coast of Panama in the distance and we passed many cargo ships all lined up waiting for their turn. We grabbed a quick breakfast and coffee at the Ubersee buffet and were on Deck 9, at the bow again by 8am. It was a slow and steady progress as we gradually approached the harbour. I counted at least 50 ships all at anchor. We had an onboard commentary and we were told that the majority of ships using the canal were container ships, the bulk carriers, cargo ships and tankers. Only 2% were cruise ships.
There was a huge container ship, the Cap Hatteras, in front of us and as we approached the first of the three sets of locks we watched as this ship gradually rose in level as
it traversed. The system was very interesting to observe. We went to the left hand side and then waited to be attached to the trains or "mules" which guide and steady the ship on its passage through each lock. These are electric and made by Mitsubishi and each is worth 2-3 million US dollars. An old-fashioned rowboat is used to throw the lines down from the ship to be attached and the local crew man the boat at this time. Once firmly attached with steel cables we were guided into the first lock. This was called Gatun Locks and was built in 1913. Most of the original gates and concrete etc remains so these are now over 100 years old. We were to ascend 85 feet through three locks to reach the height of Gatun Lake which stretches beyond this. It was a slow process, but we were transfixed and watched the whole operation from our excellent viewing point. By the last stage of the third chamber we went to the back of the ship for a different perspective. We could look back and see our accompanying tugboat behind us and another large container ship following behind. Atlantic-Pacific traffic is
the morning schedule and then later in the day it reverses.
Once through the Gatun Locks we were into the large man-made lake established by damming one of the local rivers. While sailing across this we had lunch and watched the many small islands pass by and observed the many birds following us. The next lock consisted of only one main chamber and we descended about 27 feet during this transit. The process remained the same however. From there we entered a narrower canal called The Cut which connected the lake to the Pacific Ocean. We were back up on deck during this as we sailed under the Centennial Bridge and approached the last set of locks. These were the final barrier between the Cut and the ocean. Again there were three chambers and we descended about 31 feet at this last lock. We could see the Bridge of the Americas in the distance and the high rise buildings of Panama City peeping above the hills surrounding the canal. As we passed through this lock the light was beginning to fade and once through we sailed under the bridge in the gathering twilight. The lights of the city became brighter as
we emerged into the open waters of the Pacific Ocean. It had taken over ten hours for our transit but this amazing feat of engineering saves weeks as opposed to a trip around Cape Horn.
As we went into dinner we could see the huge tanker which pulled alongside us for much needed bunkering and we were at anchor for about three hours while we took on fuel. We could also see the fireworks display over Panama City as they celebrated their Independence Day. It had been a long day but a great experience, another one to tick off the bucket list.
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