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Published: August 15th 2006
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Intro to Archipielago de Bocas del Toros
The Archipielago de Bocas del Toros, in the Laguan de Chiriqui, is just 32 kilometers from the Costa Rican border. The archipielago consists of six large, mostly forested islands and scores of smaller ones; and the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos forms a good-size chunk of it.
Isla Colon Isla Colon is by far the most visited and developed of the Bocas del Toros islands. At the southeastern tip of the island, the town of Bocas del Toros is where most of the archipielago's accommodations and restaurants are found. A slow-paced community made up mostly of English and patois-speaking people of West Indian ancestry, Bocas is a great place to hang out for a few days. The town's relaxed, friendly atmosphere seems to rub off on everyone who visits; it's especially easy to meet locals and travelers here. The charm of small-town Caribbean life is enhanced by Bocas' spectacular natural setting. Nearby islands host beautiful white-sand beaches, fringed by reeds and coconut palms, and reefs throughout the archipelago make for fine snorkeling and diving. Readily available water taxis can take you to remote beaches and snorkeling sites. Bocas town is a convenient base for exploring the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos and other nearby sites. The town, the archipielago and the province all share the same name - Bocas del Toros, Isla Colon and Bocas del Toros town are often referred to as Bocas Isla. Although still relaxed, Bocas and Isla Carenero have experienced a major development boom; land prices have skyrocketed since 1994, with foreign investors buying up land like crazy and building hotels and restaurants. The number of tourists continues to increase, so much so that if you're looking for a place to get away from it all, Bocas probably isn't the place for you. It rains a lot in Bocas. Even in the dry season, there can be long periods of constant showers.
Our Experience
Busing from Boquete back to David... then busing from David to Almirante... then cabbing to the docks... then boating to Isla Colon went quite smoothly. The trip started at 11:20AM and ended around 5PM without the slightest hitch.
Funny Note: We all had to wear our life vests on the 30 minute boat ride from Almirante to Isla Colon. It was a little awkward, but certainly safe. Still... is dawning a life vest on a passenger boat BEFORE it starts sinking a good sign? Well, in any event, we made it to the island safe (and dry).
The town of Bocas del Toro is on Isla Colon. It is small and rundown, but somehow it retains some charm. A boy greeted us at the dock and offered us a hotel room with private bathroom, fan, and TV for $15 USD. We took it. Then we went out to eat. We spent a small fortune $20 USD, but had some absolutely amazing calzones. After dinner we walked around the island and enjoyed the views of the lagoon/sea. Then we checked our e-mail... showered... watched loads
of TV... and went to sleep.
When we woke up the next morning it was raining. And not just a "quick island shower" that could perhaps blow over. We were socked in. We slept in until 10AM, and then decided to brave the rain and grab a bite to eat. After we ate, we went back to the hotel room. Lila napped from then until about 2PM. Joe sort of rested, but eventually the rain stopped (around 1PM), and he went for a walk, internet, etc. Unfortunately, when the rain stopped the sun did not come out. It was a grey, grey day. After my nap, we went out to explore and grab some hot tea and food. Both of us are a bit under the weather. Nothing major... just a persistent cold. While we were out, we found a book exchange and I swapped novels. Then we settled in at a restaurant and had a late lunch and sodas. (So much for the hot tea we needed.)
After lunch, Joe went back to the hotel to rest and I went to update the blog and check my e-mail. I got a lot accomplished, but by the time
I was finished the weather hadn't improved. So, I headed back to the hotel and Joe and I spent the afternoon watching lots of primetime TV shows in English (CSI, Ghost Whisperer, Medium, Commander and Chief, etc.) After watching TV for several hours, we headed out for a later-than-usual supper. As we finished eating, it started raining... again. Sigh. So, we went back to the hotel... watched even more TV... showered in an AMAZING hot water shower... and slept. Good night.
The next morning we woke up and caught a boat from Isla Colon back to the mainland. From there we turned north towards the Costa Rican border. Unfortunately, it was still raining. So, we forked over $25 USD for a cab to take us from the dock at Almirante to the border (45 min. cab ride). We crossed the border with no major hitches, and then caught a bus to Puerto Viejo.
Joe's Note: The sun hasn't come out in quite a few days. It's not the most pleasant experience, but considering we've been here in the middle of the rainy season, and this is the first place where we've been rained out, it's not a huge
deal.
Up Next...
Welcome back to Costa Rica. We'll be enjoying the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica before heading inland to San Jose for our flight home. First stop... Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
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Jane
non-member comment
Sign on Bank Door
Think we can suggest that to Homeland Security???