Leon

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Leon is a must-see in Central America and so far my favorite city in Nicaragua. If you are only visiting Nicaragua, I recommend using it as a hub to visit Las Penitas beaches, Matagalpa and Esteli in the mountains, and nearby volcanoes. While it is similar to Granada, Leon doesn't seem to have any areas set up exclusively for tourists; instead, gringo-living is gracefully woven into the local threads. It is hotter here, but the difference is negligible and the beach is only a half an hour away.

The drive here from Managua was a terrifying ordeal. My legs are far too long to fit comfortable in one of the intercity vans and I was sure of death nearly every moment. Our driver was actually pretty good and responsible, but everyone on the road insisted on passing others and playing chicken with oncoming traffic at every opportunity. If it became clear that the driver wasn't going to overtake a truck in time, he would simply swerve back into our lane, causing the person next to us to slam on his brakes and swerve. After passing about a hundred cars and trucks this way, I had to laugh when the driver pulled over in a parking lot so we all could pay, allowing all the same trucks to pass us again. Of course, we then proceeded to repeat the ordeal. This is the last time I am going to take one of these vans -- buses (and seats in the back) only from now on.

Hotel Via Via apparently has a few locations around the world, but I don't mind this because it has a decidedly local feel. In fact, a banner hangs in the bar that reads, "Ambiente Multicultural," apparently the theme of the company. Locals play pool (and sometimes get into fights) all day long near the bar area and restaurant doesn't look bad. My Moon guidebook says that the building was reportedly built 150 years ago by an Italian man for his Nicaraguan mistress and the rooms are stylish, quaint, and dark. I am paying far more than I'd planned (18 USD / night for a single, but they have dorms for $6), but I am too comfortable and too lazy to move. People who work there seem proud to do a good job -- in fact, the housekeepers mop the floors hourly and even cleaned my room daily. They have excellent bands on Friday nights, and on Monday nights, Quetzal Trekkers puts on a trivia show with prizes. They also offer Spanish lessons -- Profesora Gloria comes right to the hostel for one-on-one lessons for five bucks an hour. She is helpful and fun to talk to.

Right across the incredibly loud street is Bigfoot Hostel, which mostly lives up to the hype. It is pretty clean and well-run and they give out free mojitos for pretty much anything. Though there are a lot of partiers who go through there, it is pretty quiet after 11 PM. The bathrooms are clean but have uninspiring quotes on the walls and locks that only somewhat work. They arrange volcano-boarding and other trips in the area through Green Pathways Tours, one of many nonprofit tour companies in Leon.

SIGHTS

Basilica Cathedral de la Asuncion (Leon Cathedral) is the largest Cathedral in Latin America. I'm not sure why it was built here, but it is an ideal central point in the city. The park in front of it has some excellent street food. Check out the woman with the four drink pots on the south end-- see photo, right across from some interesting murals about the history and politics of Nicaragua (see photos).

I also visited La Casa de Cultura, which was much smaller and less organized than I had expected. It is worth a visit since it's free.

The Museum of the Revolution is located right on the main square (find the radio tower and walk toward it). A guy in a Sandinista uniform beckoned me toward it (on July 19th, the anniversary of the end of the revolution) and a tour guide inside said he would give a one-hour personal tour for only 30 cordobas (a little over a dollar). I only understood about a third of it, but it was very enjoyable because of his enthusiasm for the subject (which I hope explains his profuse sweating) and a tour of the building itself. They have some interesting numbered photographs about the history of Sandino and his movement, but they are old and tattered. The revolution part of the tour was even more ramshackle and amounted to newspaper clippings behind contact paper spread out on the floor. The upstairs of this amazing building has enormous potential to become a respectable museum -- some foundation should really try to restore it. As of now, the rooms are empty and dilapidated. Finally we climbed onto the roof for amazing views of the city and all the volcanoes.

RESTAURANTS
I went to two very different but equally excellent restaurants with friends: Bar Baro and Mediterraneo. The first is located near the main cathedral and was one of the best dinners I have ever had. The food is terrific, the drinks are cheap, and the service is excellent by Latin American standards. The scene is lively and you might have to fight to get a table, but a weekend experience here is a must. Locals outnumber tourists 10 to 1.

Mediterraneo has a calm, romantic setting but everything about it is equally impressive.

There are more photos below.

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Photos

Reagan
Savior of the Indios -- in his mind.

Camioneta
This poor-man´s bus may not look it, but it is less than half full.

Main Cathedral
This is apparently the largest cathedral in Latin America.

Market
This is the market at the western bus station.

La Casa de Cultura
This tough-to-find museum has a dilapidated courtyard.

Double Doors
The style alone is a good reason to stay at Via Via.