On - Off - On!

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Yesterday was another unexpected adventure. I was up at 4:15 for my 5 AM shuttle pickup to Copan. Coffee and a light breakfast was ready at 4:30 (excellent service as Hermano Pedro). But the bus still had not come at 5:45 so we began phoning the company. When my hostess finally got through to them, she got a blast on the phone for being abusive (she was anything but because I was standing right there). She told me they were into "narcotraffics", which she said is very common in Guatemala, or at least around Antigua (where I bought my tour package). I finally suggested I might try taking a different bus. She phone again to the company and perhaps got a different guy, but no satisfaction as the bus was gone. Then a few minutes alter a guy from here in Copan called (I think Centroamerica Travel Agency, perhaps the office that RutaMaya uses here) to say that the driver has forgotten me and has a history of such actions, but that if I took a Hedman Alas bus to here at 9AM I would be heere by 2 and they would reimburse me. I was to talk to a Carlos when I arrived. Well, I took that bus, it is a well established but somewhat expensive company (and with a less than perfect record I hear), but they have their own small depot which was quite pleasant compared to the main public depot. I traveled first class because I was not sure about second class. It turned out both were on the same bus, but they moved me from my first seat near the door (half-way back) to the very front, where they change the head covers on the seat. Shortly after leaving (right on time) we stopped at a mall beside a Burger King, and as soon as we started moving they handed me a tray with a cheeseburger (a bit spicy but good), some tiny potatoe patties, a small bottle of orange juice, and a small bottle of water (and a candy)! It was like riding in a cocoon insulated from the world and very high up off the street level (about 8 steps). The windows are heavily curtained (you can pull them back), we watched two movies on the way (about a 5 hour trip), and the ride was very smooth. But it turned out the air conditioning was not working, so when we got closer to sea level, they started opening the windows, and it was very warm in the bus when we arrived at the border.

The border crossing was swarming with money changers (Q1=L2 I eventually learned later). I mistook them for the guys who collect the border crossing fee at first, and handed him the Q40 I was told it would cost. He gave me change in Limpias (limpia is the Spanish word for clean) but as it turns out is the basic Honduran currency. I asked if we were taking a short break, and a company offical said no. But I saw others going across the street and lining up at two windows, and then realized that was probably the border crossing office. So I lined up, and eventually paid Q10 to leave Guatemala and at another window Q25 to enter Honduras (about $Can 4), for a total of Q35.

A short time later were arrived at the bus stop at Copan, and I was told the man I needed was in the city at Hotel Patti, so took a "tuk tuk" (again much competition between drivers for my attention). I'm not sure what I paid, maybe Q10. At the hotel, a man at the hotel entrance told me the office for CentroAmerica travel was just across the street and up a few doors, but that Carlos was out of town! So he suggested I go to the other hotel where my booking was, La Posada, which he said was two blocks up the hill and about half way down on the left. About a block up the hill I found a hotel and cafe by that name, but when I finally got someone's attention (it seemed deserted) he told me it was the wrong place and that I should go down to the office. So back down the hill I go, only to be redirected again by the first man and another young guy at the office to La Posada. It turns out there are at least 3 establishments by that name, or with that in their name, but the third is out of town and very expensive. Anyway, once I found the right one, they accepted my reservation and gave me a room. They also called a taxi (tuk tuk) to take me to the ruins (a 3-4 minute ride). There I was given a guide (Fidel) who speaks English, and he was delightful, quite a sense of humour and extremely knowledgeable (he kept telling me the dates things happened and the dates that archeologists discovered things.) We also talked about similar customs and structures elsewhere in the world.

Essentially I had a 2 hour private tour, though we were joined near the end by a Spanish speaking man. My guide explained a lot of things, answered my questions, and pointed out good places to take pictures. I now know quite a bit about "18 Rabbit", a famous King who was very artistic and is remembered in many very deep carvings in stone, some of them with much evidence of the original paint. Part of their sewer system is still functioning (built prior to 750 ACE.) Research continues by experts.

I did not get to tour the tunnels, which I'm told costs $US35 or something like that. I doubt I will go back this morning, though I do have the time. At the ruins, I met the young couple that I had met in Xela and spent part of an afternoon with. I met them again in town in the late afternoon and we had supper together, which was great. During supper there was a light shower of rain, which settled the dust a bit. Copan is very much a tourist town, and relatively clean. Most stores take Quetzales, but I did go to a bank machine this morning (found 2 last night) and got L300 (about $C25) with no problem. One student in Xela had a machine malfunction and after several attempts his bank in the US was debited about five times for a total of quite a few hundred dollars, and they've told him it will take 2 or 3 months to get it straightened out and repaid!

After supper last night I took my two plastic bags of water (a mistake, as they taste like plastic: the other young couple bought 8 of them as they were cheaper than bottles!) I mixed one with Gatorade but will leave the other at the hotel I think.) back to the hotel, and then went for a stroll around town without my cameras or pack. They have a really nigh central square which has many trees. But the souvenirs here are expensive, so I doubt I will be buying much. Besides, my bags are very full already.

My bus is scheduled to leave at noon from my hotel, so I have about 3 hours and a bit to explore and shop. I was up shortly after 6:30 AM this morning. Breakfast turned out to be coffee and toast with jam - the called it "continental". Lunch will be mainly more trail mix (got to get rid of that stuff - its good but heavy!) Now it's time to move on and see what I might have missed yesterday. I learned from my guide that piña (pineapple), which I somehow pictured growing in trees, actually grow on plants about 2 feet high. Since they do grow around here, I'd like to see one. Hasta luego!

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