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Pacaya volcano
The massive volcanoes around Antigua, Guatemala After a couple of hours in a small touristy bus coming from Honduras, I finally arrived in Antigua, Guatemala. Antigua’s setting is gorgeous, nestled between smoking volcanoes in the central highlands of Guatemala, the city is famous for its well-preserved baroque architecture as well as a number of spectacular ruins of colonial churches which offer photo opportunities at every turn. I had planned to stay three or four days…and stayed ten.
I took a one week one-on-one crash course in Spanish, from 8am until 1pm, then, after some good lunch, I would sit at a sunny terrace of a café and do my homework, like a good student has to do, drinking some nice coffee and eating my favourite cakes. Having already spent a month in Spanish speaking countries and speaking French fluently, Spanish came pretty easily to me. In the evenings, I would go out for dinner and drinks with Ellen and Caroline, two English girls I met at my hostel. So, apart from a little theft (US300 taken from my suitcase while I was showering - the one and only time during my trip), I absolutely loved Antigua, one of the most enjoyable places during my trip!
Antigua
Local looking down on the Parque Central I took a one day trip to climb yet another volcano. The Pacaya volcano had erupted pretty heavily ten days earlier and would allow us to walk on solidified lava while still being able to see that red glowing lava that I missed too many times before. So, with an armed guide, we set out on the difficult trail, arriving at our lava spot just before sun dawn. Even after ten days, the heat at some spots was unbearable, shoe soles start melting and your leg hair burns off within a couple of seconds. We did the touristy thing of barbecuing marshmallows with lava heat, but honestly even though it looks a bit stupid, it is really tasty! While we descended the volcano, one of the three other volcanoes further away started to erupt and spit out huge amounts of fumes…really impressive!
I took a series of absolutely crazy bus rides through the mountains from Antigua to Chichicastenango, a small city which looks isolated in time and space from the rest of Guatemala. The main attraction in Chichi is its Sunday market, when Maya traders from outlying villages come to sell their goods. I strolled for a couple of
Antigua
Parque Central hours between vegetables, spices, soaps, embroidered garments, carved-wood masks and thousands of villagers wearing traditional Mayan clothes before going up a small hilltop to observe shamanic rituals on the town’s outskirts. The local shrine is set to be hundreds - sometimes also thousands - of years old and locals still come here regularly to offer incense, food, cigarettes, flowers, liquor and Coca-Cola to the earth God, Huyup Tak’ah. I even assisted at the sacrifice of a chicken - all to express their thanks and hope for the earth’s continuing fertility. Since the arrival of the Spanish five hundred years ago, traditional Mayan beliefs have slowly mixed with Christianity, a very strange combination.
I wanted to continue my trip northwards but, due to a severe landslide I was forced to go back south to Antigua for two days before driving up to Semuc Champey.
In Semuc Champay, I slept in a small cabana, surrounded by green mountains and rivers, a great place to relax. Semuc is famed for its 300m long natural limestone bridge, on top of which is a stepped series of pools of cool, flowing river water that is amazing for swimming. Although this bit of paradise
Antigua
A random street in Antigua is difficult to reach, the beauty of its setting and the perfection of the pools, which range from turquoise to emerald green, make it all worthwhile. I also walked to the Lanquin caves which extend several kilometres into the earth, arriving at sun set when millions of bats fly out of the cave and go hunting in the surrounding forests. An impressive sight, which reminded me of a similar experience at the Niah caves on Borneo.
After a couple of days of relaxing in Semuc, I moved further up north to Tikal. Towering pyramids, rising to heights of more than 61m, poke above the jungle’s green canopy to catch the sun. Rich, loamy smells of earth and vegetation, a peaceful air and animal noises all contribute to an experience not offered by any other Maya sites. I visited Tikal in one day on a very interesting guided tour, starting at 5am in the morning to be able to see the sun rise from the top of one of the impressive temples. After all this culture, I needed a bit of beach…then time for Belize had come!
Guatemala, though not very safe if you believe the stories of other
Antigua
My favourite view of Antigua's Arch backpackers and local newspapers, is a great country to travel to and so rich in terms of culture and natural beauty. Antigua and Tikal are a must see in a traveller’s life!
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