A Pair of Brown Eyes

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Central America Caribbean » Guatemala
October 15th 2018
Published: February 2nd 2019
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A Pair of Brown EyesA Pair of Brown EyesA Pair of Brown Eyes

The most beautiful man and butterfly
I just spent eight weeks traveling all over Central America. My plan was simple. No plan.

Back when I was 18, and fearless, I backpacked my way through Central America with my best friend Linda. We were just a couple of inebriated surfer girls living off the kindness of strangers with no inhibitions, no limits, no pesos. I look back at that experience fondly, but also as stupid reckless.

If nothing less, it was the perfect set up for one of those cheesy slasher movies.

As we hitchhiked our way south from beach to beach, I hardly saw any of Central America. To be fair we were all about thrills, boys, and parties - not culture or history.

The trip ended abruptly in Panama City when all my belongings were stolen including the photographic evidence I was ever there.

Fast forward 32 years and I find myself flying into Guatemala City, ready to act like a proper tourist. Having been in Mexico for a month already, I was fully acclimatized to the idiosyncrasies of Latin America and, my Spanglish was on fire.

In other words, everything went weirdly smooth and expedited.

I dropped

Still there, still majestic
off my heavy backpack at my friend’s family casa on the outskirts of Zone 1, and made the executive decision to fly into Flores instead of taking a 9 hour chicken bus ride.

A brilliant strategy because…in less than an hour, I was greeted by Marlon, sparkly owner of Gem Tours who escorts me out to the UNESCO site of Tikal. I'm starving, so he phones ahead and orders a delicious omelet with spicy red sauce at a roadside eatery. Once we were in the park, Marlon turns on his intense guide mode. Great for me, as I wanted to learn all about Tikal’s history and significance this time. Not just drop acid and climb all over the ruins, posing.

Tikal is massive. Deep within the steamy rain forests of northern Guatemala, it is believed this ancient Mayan citadel was created as far back as the 1st century AD. It thrived between 200 and 900 AD but was later abandoned for a variety of theories; wars with other Mayan empires, famine, overpopulation, resource depletion.

The grand palaces and temples built by the Mayans for their rulers, awe inspiring. Temple IV, which is 70 meters - the tallest
Chicken BusChicken BusChicken Bus

This is one of my favourite things about Guatemala. Riding the chicken buses. Cheap and very entertaining
pre-Columbian structure in the Americas - makes you feel Godlike standing on the top, overlooking the endless jungle canopy.

Merlin, Marlon’s texting teenage cousin doesn’t speak any English but she shadows us looking ever bored, so I make her giggle by teasing her in Spanglish. We were besties by the end of the day. Marlon wants to avoid the throngs of tourists so he leads us into the jungle using short cuts. Overhead, howler monkeys tattle on us, while toucans cheekily bounce from branch to branch. It’s sweltering hot and it’s only 9 am. Why am I the only one with my clothing glued to me?

We stumble upon a huge procession of decorated townsfolk, led by Mayan shamans in mid ritual, they are kneeling around an alter and chanting, as offerings are burned. We settle cross-legged on the lawn mesmerized by their ceremonies while the saturated heat of the morning rises. Marlon whispers the importance of these ancient and sacred practices as we watch, I feel like an interloper.

Sneaking back through downtrodden paths, a jackal crosses ours, more than likely hunting for the tiny agouti and coati creatures we’ve encountered. Marlon pushes some hillside dirt
So this just happenedSo this just happenedSo this just happened

Sitting enjoying a nice cup of coffee in Antigua when boom, the volcano explodes.
with his toe and unearths a distinctive piece of clay pottery. It’s everywhere. Stacked in raw earth, exposed only when it rains. He says we are standing on what must have been the citadels’ massive garbage dump.

Back in Guatemala City, I spent a few days at my friend's mother’s house, she dotes on me with homemade chicken empanadas, plantains, thick meat stews, black beans with rice and tortillas. I didn’t have the heart to tell her I’m vegetarian.

Her colonia neighbourhood is cinder block covered in graffiti with metal gates, bars on windows. Dogs bark, sirens wail. Pretty sure I heard a few shots fired. Behind those walls, a blissful sanctuary. Family member flit in and out to meet me, they are all such lovely, hardworking Guatemalans just trying to get by, survive.

Guatemala City feels under siege, further accentuated by armed guards at every tienda (store) and tattooed gangsters loitering in dark corners.

I go out anyways to do my touristy thing and visit the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, the Catedral Primada Metropolitana de Santiago, the Popol Vul museum, and the National Anthropology and Ethnology museum. I highly recommend seeing them all.
Mother's MilkMother's MilkMother's Milk

Fountain in Antigua that represents sirens
With a few strolls through the downtown core and the central city market, I’m done.

Besides, my friend with the Pair of Brown Eyes is in Antigua, working, so I’m going to meet him there.

I order an Uber and Francisco pulls up. An older gentleman comedically drowning in an over sized brown sweater. We wrestle my backpack into his purple Ion and head off for Antigua. He doesn't speak a word of English, but we have a nice chat in Spanglish, I get a rundown of his entire family situation as he zigzags frantically through the traffic gridlock that plagues this city.

I notice his gas light blinking, but Francisco whizzes through 9 gas stations before he finally pulls into one. I think it’s because he’s shopping for the best price...but I’m told later by my friend that more than likely he spotted opportunistic gangsters hanging out nearby waiting to hold us up at gunpoint and rob us, or pull me out of the car and abduct me.

What was supposed to take forty minutes becomes a three hour ordeal to get to Antigua, the traffic is utterly insane. But we finally arrive. Francisco has
Traditional GuatemalansTraditional GuatemalansTraditional Guatemalans

Still wearing the traditional frocks in Antigua.
become comfortable enough with me to hand over his phone, he wants me to take photos of all the ancient churches as we bump along the cobblestones looking for the hostel I booked.

Antigua, if I remember correctly, did not look this gentrified and touristy last time I was here. I’ll admit though, it’s stunning and lively in the twilight with all the twinkly lights.

Happily, I find my hostel. It’s cozy and clean and well situated, I don’t have to go far to find some dinner at a busy taco stand by a church. While waiting in line, I chat up some young Guatemalans hanging by this fountain, they stare at me in shock first, unbelieving that a Gringa is talking to them, and in Spanglish.

It turns out they work in tourism and are fluent in English so naturally, we switch. Both girls are insistent on taking me out clubbing. I’m hesitant because one, I’m 50 and two, I’m going to Chichicastenago in the morning and need to have my wits about me, so I settle for a suggested hipster joint with live grunge music, and I’m introduced to this godawful liquor made of Jamaica
Borracho en GuatemalaBorracho en GuatemalaBorracho en Guatemala

Drinking with the locals means trying weird concoctions, like this 20% Jamaica liquor with Sprite. Yuck.
flowers and Tamarindo, which they neutralize with Sprite. Eleanor and Stefanie are lovely and we had tons of laughs, they insisted on paying for my drinks and walking me back to my hostel. We all had a big group hug goodbye.

Antigua so far has won my award for best place on the planet. Honestly! Love Love it here.

Early rise, and time for a chicken bus challenge.

There's a huge public market in a town called Chichicastenago, perfect for some preempted Xmas shopping. I feel further redeemed when I board the correct bus. It was Sunday, and the bustling crowds, basking stray dogs, and flower vendors all surrounding their 400 year old church in a swirl of chaos, the Iglesia de Santo Tomas.

After a little bit of touristing, I sit on the stoop to call a fellow Canadian who runs the Treasures of God orphanage for abandoned children with disabilities in a nearby town called Coban. I didn’t make any plans but perhaps I should have. Naomi is exhausted, but currently has an embarrassment of church volunteers staying with her. No room for me. I left a generous online donation for her with a
Lake AtitlanLake AtitlanLake Atitlan

Such a beautiful scenic place with cone shaped volcanoes in the background
promise to return next year to help. Back on the packed chicken bus to Antigua, I enjoy the bumpy ride and spectacular overhead jingly music.

One thing I hate about understanding Spanish, is no one expects me to. After all, I am a robust, tall, blonde, blue eyed Gringa. I try not to eavesdrop as the two elderly women behind me quietly discuss how scared they are now that I have gotten on their bus. Seems I have upped their chances of being robbed by gunpoint today. How terrifying. I feel so bad, so I turn to apologize. They freeze in horror. I also feel the need to clarify I’m a Canadian. A honest mistake. They nervously smile at me, their metal teeth flashing.

Now I understand why I get such weird expressions when I board a bus around here!! And here I thought it was my size.

Back in Antigua, I’m finding lots of things to do in this fascinating, friendly town, just walking around on the cobblestone streets is entertainment enough, perusing the touristy stores, watching a wedding procession, enjoying good food at endless trendy restaurants, visiting churches and religious sites, going up the hill

Old buildings that have almost survived the earthquakes over the years.
to take pictures at the Cerro de la Cruz lookout.

I also went out to a Macadamia cooperative farm by chicken bus because horticulture is my thang. Owned by an American expat who I can say confidently is completely off his nut. Living in Guatemala for 60 years will do that to you, surely. He plops himself down at my table as I enjoy a salad in his outdoor restaurant, I’m a captive audience as he rambles on about American politics as his employees nervously flit about behind him, trying to look busy. Now I have dreams of leaving it all behind and buying myself a nut farm in Guatemala. Like that will ever happen.

When it was finally time to meet up with my beautiful Guatemalan, I was so excited! We haven't seen each other in years.

We situationally text a mutual meeting point, and as I was sipping coffee on a park bench waiting for him, volcano Fuego blows up in front of my eyes.

The ground shakes and explosions of ash echo off the buildings, I take out my phone to capture the moment, only to be tackled into a huge bear hug
Full meal dealFull meal dealFull meal deal

A little local beer with a snack in a glass on Lake Atitlan
by my Pair of Brown Eyes.

What can I say, he knows how to make a dramatic entrance!

We picked up right where we left off. So much to catch up on. Last time we saw each other was in Mexico.

My Pair of Brown Eyes happily agrees to act as my pseudo guide. After showing me around his version of Antigua, we went to Lake Atitlan for the day to enjoy a nice boat cruise, the cone shaped volcanos in the background, stunning. Then we made our way by chicken bus to the Pacaya Volcano. We are going to trek that bad boy.

Difficult for me because of my pulmonary oedema in Peru years ago. Anything up is a struggle now. Not to mention all I can think about is Pacaya may explode like Fuego did at any moment. Freaking!!!

My Pair of Brown Eyes teases me relentlessly, he knows I’m well capable. We’ve hiked some of the most difficult shit together in our past. “This will be a piece of cake”, he says.

Me, I’m eyeing up one of those rent-a-horses with some serious intent.

It turned into the most

Always interesting to pop into a Tienda and see what the typical snacks and drinks are
amazing climb on an active volcano! We could feel the ground shaking underneath us as we ascented. Hot spots steam and the Sulphuric air burns your nostrils. Bucketlist worthy. After our exhausting day, we found refuge at the Santa Teresita thermal baths, soaking our weary bodies into wrinkly prunes.

I’ve missed My Pair of Brown Eyes. He is a cheeky bugger, and refuses to speak English to me, so I’m forced to immerse. I swear at him in frustration but play along.

While in Antigua we stay with some of his friends, and I get to experience the local way, not just be a tourist. When he heads back to work, I start to think about my next leg of my Central America reboot.

I want to stay here forever, but Honduras is calling.

Additional photos below
Photos: 26, Displayed: 26


The WarningThe Warning
The Warning

I'm one of those crazy people that have to climb a volcano, even if there is a real chance I might die.
Chicken BusChicken Bus
Chicken Bus

Got myself a seat, didn't have to hold anyone's kid, no chickens anywhere.
A walk in the parkA walk in the park
A walk in the park

Love how the old temple ruins peeked out from the jungle. So many different sites to explore at Tikal.
Marlon y MerlinMarlon y Merlin
Marlon y Merlin

My two favourite Guatemalans to hang out with
New Drinking BuddiesNew Drinking Buddies
New Drinking Buddies

Eleanor shows me her town of Antigua
Balancing actBalancing act
Balancing act

Woman walk around town with things on their heads, feels very African.
Antigua GuatemalaAntigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala

Old Guatemala City from the lookout
Danger StairsDanger Stairs
Danger Stairs

Still allowed to walk all over the temples of Tikal, I enjoyed climbing each one to see the majestic views.
Stunning Old BuildingsStunning Old Buildings
Stunning Old Buildings

Antigua has incredibly old churches and monasteries, and are all still actively used. Weddings and celebrations occurring daily.
Lake AtitlanLake Atitlan
Lake Atitlan

Eating with the LocalsEating with the Locals
Eating with the Locals

I recommend eating your dinner at the street food stalls in the squares. Here you can meet locals and find out where the best places to hang are.
Like 22 years agoLike 22 years ago
Like 22 years ago

Love the little fruit carts on the streets of Antigua. Some things have changed, some things stay the same.
See for MilesSee for Miles
See for Miles

The temples are high above the jungle canopy and give a godlike feeling when you climb up.
Fascinating TikalFascinating Tikal
Fascinating Tikal

Some of the temples are still being restored and uncovered. There are pictures on site showing what it looked like before and after. It is quite an undertaking to unearth these.
Worker at the Nut FarmWorker at the Nut Farm
Worker at the Nut Farm

A germinated Macadamia nut with a tour guide on the end of it. I always participate in anything Horticulture on my travels.

2nd February 2019

Brown Eyes hosting you in Guatemala
A marvelous story teller you are and we await your book. Glad you've chicken bus'd through this luscious land of humidity. Terrific that you didn't kill any old ladies on the bus and as for Tikal we still can't wait to see it and the acid is not a bad idea with Pink Floyd music in the background. All love your wild adventurous stories with locals.
2nd February 2019

Thank you Binkleys! This was an enjoyable “memorable” journey revisiting all my old haunts. You must go to Tikal!!!! It’s mind blowing with or without the LSD. Maybe a little diving in Belize first? I’ll meet you there.
2nd February 2019

No picture??
No picture of "the most beautiful man with brown eyes?" Don't leave me in suspense! I had just about concluded that a pair of brown eyes belonged to a puppy, until I went back and read your blog again.
2nd February 2019

My Pair of Brown Eyes prefers anonymity for now. Luckily, that wasn’t the end of him. He rejoins my journey in El Salvador. He might show himself there.
2nd February 2019

A blue eyed Grianga speaking Spanglish
Hey Gringa, I enjoyed this blog thoroughly...perhaps I have Guatemala in my bucket list all along, but more so about how you presented the episode. Hats off, you two girls in your yesteryears covered all these places on your own. More kudos that you are heading out to Hondurus....I have that in my bucket list too, but I heard many stories from their not that stimulating. Looking forward reading your experiences over there.
3rd February 2019

I’m going to sound like the Guatemalan governor of tourism but please go to Guatemala!!! It is a wonderful country with wonderful people and with so many things to see and do. Yes, the city can be dangerous, but use your travel wits and you’ll be fine!!!
5th February 2019

Gorgeous Guatemala
My two most favourite places were Antigua and Tikal, and it was so lovely to be transported back there with your words and photos. Honduras has recently popped up as a contender for the next trip to those parts, so I'm eagerly awaiting your blog :)
12th February 2019

Hi Guys! Yes! Wasn’t Tikal and Antigua amazing! So loved visiting them again 32 years later! The whole country has so much to do, it’s hard to narrow it down. I found myself zig zagging all over in chicken bused trying to cover it all, I’m exhausted!! I need a holiday from my holiday!
9th February 2019

Yay! Lovely to read about beautiful Guatemala, takes me back to my own time there a couple of years ago. Looks like you fitted a lot in. And even a real love volcanic eruption! How incredible!
12th February 2019

Oh great! I’m glad you enjoyed your memory lane walk Alex! I had such a great time retracing my steps in Central America, can’t wait to go back.
10th February 2019
So this just happened

A walking down Memory Lane
It sounds like your trip was partly a trip down Memory Lane. It sure was for for me too. I was in Guatemala three years ago and went to many of the places you went to. I knew Guatemala City wasn't safe but from what you write it was worse than I thought. To me it felt safe enough and I thought my precautions ("not venture outside the safe zone", "making sure the bus didn't drop me outside the city centre") were silly and unnecessary. But I guess I was right in being careful. Tikal, such a wonderful place! Chichicastenango and the colorful cemetery. Antigua and its ruins. I also remember the volcano - the only time I have been able to take good photos of a volcano having an outbreak. You were lucky to get your shot of the volcano when it exploded. Looking forward to your next blog entry. /Ake
12th February 2019
So this just happened

Thanks Ake! Guatemala was very special and I enjoyed my time there. The volcano eruption was sure interesting, made my hike up the other one nerve wracking for sure!!!
11th February 2019

Have yet to visit this country so I really enjoyed reading about your time there and the photos were great; but that photo with the volcano erupting was fantastic!
12th February 2019

Thanks Starship VT! It is welll worth a visit! I hope you go someday

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