The End of the Mayan Trail

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Day 18: Thursday 17th July - 3 Countries & a long bus journey

Its a shame to be leaving the hostel in Tulum behind, after the one in Oaxaca its probably been the best one. Unfortunately my sunburn is killing me and the reason to hang around here is the beach - which I think will be off limits to next week due to the extent of my burns.

I hatch a plan to get to Guatemala by the end of the day, I don't know if its feasible, but if not I'll stop somewhere on the way. First leg is a 4 hour bus ride to Chetumal, which is 10 kilometres from the border with Belize. I'm hoping I'll be able to catch a bus straight on to Guatemala once in Chetumal.......I'm in luck I find one that leaves at 1pm, so I only have to wait 30 minutes. Next I have to negotiate the border crossing between Mexico and Belize.....two checkpoints, 15 minutes and we're back in the bus again on our way. It takes 5 hours to go through Belize (which is about the size of Wales). Belize has a definite Carribean feel to it, and it remains a bit of an anomaly in Latin America being the only country apart from Brazil and the Guyanas which don't speak Spanish. English is the language here, a legacy of colonial rule which only ended in 1981. I can't work out what the main industry is as I pass through Belize as I only seem to see restaurants and tyre shops!

At around 6.30pm, following a brief stop at Belize City to drop the rest of the passengers on the bus off, and an even briefer journey through the capital, Belmopan - which at a population of 10,000 people must rank as one of the smallest capitals in the world, I arrive at the border with Guatemala. Another straightforward crossing, but this time I have to pay $15 US to leave Belize and 10 Quetzales (70 pence) to enter Guatemala. I get hounded by money changers, including one joker in Belize who offers me 1 Quetzal to 2 Mexican Pesos (the rate should be more like 3 to 4). I manage to haggle with another guy to get closer to the rate - I probably lose 5 pounds in the transaction but I don't know if there will be an ATM at the other end and I have no Guatemalan currency so its a neccessity.

After two hours further drive I arrive in Flores in Northern Guatemala, some 12 hours after I started in Mexico. I've had to endure some terrible roads which don't do my sunburn any good, but I've managed to pull off 3 countries in a day! The hostel I want to stay at is full so I have to stay in a single room in another at nearly 3 times the price. - still its only 5 pounds - Guatemala is cheap : ) .

Day 19: Friday 18th July - The End of the Mayan Trail

Grab some breakfast overlooking Lake Peten Itza which surrounds Flores. Flores is a small island linked to the mainland by a causeway and can't be more than 300metres square. Its a beautiful setting, and I wish I can take more time over breakfast but I've a bus to catch to Tikal at 10am. I get to the bus station with 10 minutes to spare, but then I realise its actually 9am as Guatemala is a further hour behind Mexico...I could have had a relaxed breakfast after all!!

It takes an hour and a half to drive the 60km to Tikal (I did say the roads in Guatemala are a nightmare!). Tikal is the site of the most famous Mayan ruins in Guatemala, again set in the Jungle. The Guatemalan authorities seem to realise that it is the only real reason to visit Northern Guatemala and charge 10 pounds entrance (thats steep compared to what I've been paying in Mexico.). I just have enough money to pay the entrance fee but 3 girls on the bus haven't enough money so its a wasted journey for them....shame. Again, the ruins are very impressive and match those I've seen in Mexico. I walk around the site with a guy from Belize who was on my bus. He's been 5 times before and works in forest conservation back in Belize, so its like having a personal tour guide for free! It rains most of the day but is kind of a refreshing change.

Tikal is the last step on my Mayan Trail - I've seen the main sites but there must be around 50 in total throughout Central America. So what happened to the Mayans?? No one actually knows for certain, whether it was a failure of the land to support the cities they'd built or fighting between rival cities, but by the time of the Spanish conquest in the 16th Century the great Mayan civilisations had ended. Mayan's haven't died out though, there are still millions who survive today, living in communities throughout Central America. The guy from Belize is actually Mayan and its a privilege to walk around the site with someone whose ancestors built such an amazing place.

I get back to Flores in mid afternoon and book a bus to Guatemala City which leaves at 8.30pm which gives me enough time to enjoy a meal overlooking the lake again - paradise.

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