Ah, Antigua....


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Published: March 21st 2005
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I love Anigua! After three days, I'm taking back my initial thought that it's like a ancient, Guatemalan Disney World. It really is different than Xela. And I'm glad I had both experiences. I'm also very glad that I studied in Xela. There are so many tourists here! This is the beginning of Semana Santa, the holiest (is that a word?) and most important holiday in Guatemala, so I think this is probably the most overrun it gets, but still.... I'm glad I was here for the start of Semana Santa to see some of the processions and traditions, but I'm also glad I'm leaving before it gets too insane, which I've heard it will toward the end of the week.

For those familiar with Chicago, Antigua is like the Lincoln Park of Guatemala. It's where the pretty people are, both the locals and the tourists. Xela had a much more authentic and sometimes dirty feel to it. Antigua, on the other hand, is immaculate. The streets are made of stone, there are people who go around and pick up trash with sticks (just like Disney!) and beautifully manicured parks with flowers and fountains. And there is so much more variety in the way of restaurants, bars, shops, etc. I had Thai food today! I was so exicted. Two nights ago I went to a rooftop bar called Sky Cafe... so nice. I went to a movie last night, Motorcycle Diaries, finally. The screen was like ours in the states for the most part, as opposed to Xela, where I heard that the moviegoing experience can be like watching a big screen TV at a friends house.

There are beautiful churches and ruins everywhere you look. Apparently Antigua has been hit by more than it's fair share of earthquakes, so every church has been rebuilt several times throughout the thousands of years of existence. Because of this, every church has vast ruins to explore, which are more impressive and interesting than the churches themselves, in my opinion.

Because it's Semana Santa, there are huge processions that circle the entire city, every day. I witnessed one yesterday, both in the light and again around 10 pm last night. The processions consist of men, women and even children dressed in log purple robes with white headresses, carrying huge wooden floats on their shoulders. The floats feature Jesus carrying the cross, Mary, angels and religious icons and ideas. There are usually boys who walk in front blowing huge bellows of powerful insense, and there is always music, usually solemn. Last night, I was mesmerized by Ave Maria, and the bright lights that accompanied the nighttime procession around the park.

Another part of Semana Santa is the colorful alfombras, or carpets, that the people make to cover the ground, both in the churches and in the streets through which the processions walk. The ones in the streets of made from colored sawdust and from the looks of it, they are a lot of work. So much detail, so many colors.... Thanks to a tip from a local I met on the parkbench yesterday, today I visited a church called La Merced, where I found an absolutely incredible and huge alfombra made entirely of vegetables and bread baked in the shape of different animals. There were also scenes from the bible, depicted elaborately with statues and backdrops, behind the alfombra. It really is an amazing time to be in Antigua. It makes me a little sad and angry, though, to think about how much money is spent on just this one week, especially in a country where so many people are starving. Just last night, while I was watching the procession, I turned around to see three homeless people curled up, alseep on the sidewalk with their dogs.

Like a long and wonderful day at Disney, my time in Antigua is coming to an end. I´m going to sit in the park and people watch, and then travel to Guatemala City to meet up with some friends to visit Tikal. So until then... Much love and un abrazo para todos!

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