Advertisement
Monteverde and Santa Elena
Leaving Nicaragua and crossing into Costa Rica was not exactly the smooth border transition I´d hoped for. All I can say is expect to wait a while. Everyone I have met has remarked the same, so bring a book, put on your bikini and work on your tan with the hundreds of other people waiting to cross over. It was nothing if not social - I got to make lots of line buddies during the five hours I was there.
But the line was worth the wait. Costa Rica is BEAUTIFUL. It was amazing the difference from Nicaragua visable even just across the border... green lush and wet, this was the jungle I´d been looking for.
I headed straight up to Monteverde and Santa Elena for a break from the heat and humidity. A short hundred kilometres or so journey, the short trip took longer than expected owing to waiting on the highway for five hours for the connecting bus into the mountains... The area is renowned for its cloud forest reserves, forests like rainforests, but that survive primarily on the moisture from the clouds they are always shrouded in. It made for some
eerie photos and damp hiking experiences. Gumboots are a must if it rains, but don´t worry, you can hire them from the park entrances.
I managed to spend five days in the cloud forests, but with the rain setting in everyday without fail by midday, it was really more like two full days of adventures. The hiking whilst not particularly challenging or remote (not sure I´d want to get lost in a remote Costa Rican cloud forest though) was stunning and by far some of the best forest I´ve ever walked through.
The elusive hunt for toucans, monkeys and sloths began. Birds a plenty, butterflies and unusual bugs... but the big ones kept their distance from me. I did spot both a male and female quetzal which was VERY exciting over two separate days. And I can happily report that I finally found monkeys. The capuchin monkeys (exactly the same as the monkey in Pirates of the Carribean) were however not really that pleased to find me. It was a bit bizarre having these little monkeys staring down, shaking branches and hissing to scare me off. I did however meet a couple who had monkey poo thrown at
them earlier in the day... ha ha! Unlucky. Sloths however blend into the frest, so I didn´t see them. And even though there was a resident toucan outside my hostel I missed it every single time. Grrrrrr. I bought myself some toucan earrings to make up for it though.
Apart from hiking, Monteverde and Santa Elena are the place to go ziplining through the canopy. I have no photos to show though! (Holding onto my harness and taking a photo whilst careening through the trees was not a skill I possessed.) Not a big fan of wobbly platforms I was extremely pleased to feel safe and secure at all times. Others in the town did not report the same feelings, so if you´re going ziplining, ask around for reviews! It involved locking me (in my harness) onto cables strung throughout the forest and just flying along them. Kind of like a big flying fox but minus the risks of accidentally letting go! Some of the lines were long... I think the longest was 600m, and 80m high over a valley. Pretty spectacular. I wimped out on the tarzan swing though. It was massively scary looking so I sat it
out and listened to everyones screams as they stepped up to the challenge.
La Fortuna
Leaving Monteverde and Santa Elena, I headed for La Fortuna, home of Volcan Arenal. A massive nine hour trip by public transport over a distance of less than one hundred kilometres, I elected for the shorter four hour horseride version through private properties surrounding Arenal Dam Lake.
The vistas were beautiful. Lush forests, green paddocks, a blue lake and the ever daunting volcano off in the distance. Luckily I had not forgotten entirely how to ride a horse, so the trip was painfree and enjoyable. And so much better than a windy bumpy bus journey. Spectacular would be a good word to describe it all.
Having had my share of volcanoes and lava, I didn´t go on a tour to see the active volcano at La Fortuna. Hiking up is not permitted - the volcano is a known killer - but from around town, at night, the lava is visible flowing down its sides. The area is also filled with Las Vegas type hot springs - huge resort complexes with swim up bars and a jungle setting to enjoy the natural
phenomena and views of the lava. It struck me as a little ironic that all these five star hotels and resorts are built up around the base of this very active volcano. Here´s hoping all that investment doesn´t literally go up in smoke...
The Pacific Coast
From the highlands I headed to San Jose and onwards to Jaco. Given the reputation that cities in Central America have, San Jose breaks the mould. Crime, pollution and overdevelopment seem less, and being able to walk the streets at night was a change for good. Unfortunately it was pouring rain, so I observed the city from my hostels rooftop and thought about how good it would be to walk around if I wanted to.
The next day I bused to Jaco, a very developed americaville type town on the Pacific Coast. The American dollars which have poured into Costa Rica make this country a little different from the others in Central America. Huge modern apartment buildings, fancy restaurants and modern amenities, mostly to capture the retirement crowd, abound. Whist not the scene for me, I can see why it appeals to so many retirees looking for something a little more
exotic than Florida. But the overdevelopment comes at a cost... the jungles and natural beauty of Costa Rica are quickly lost.
Puerto Viajo
So leaving americaville, I bussed it to the Caribbean Coast, to the very picturesque jungly humid coastline of Puerto Viajo. Looks however can be somewhat deceiving and the reports of crime and drug running were enough to put anyone off walking the streets alone day or night. Given that the second day I was there, a body was dumped on the market tables with six bullets in it, the facade of best holiday location ever was slightly tarnished.
BUT the coastlines and the jungle were spectacular. I hired a bike and spent the days cruising along the beaches with friends and following the endless sands. Having the freedom of a vehicle (ok so not a car but hey, I could still go wherever I wanted providing I was willing to peddle) was awesome and I took my bike everywhere.
I spent the nights there camping in a hostel called Rocking Js. Why dorm it when you can get your very own tent and locker!!! Although, with the sun rising at ridiculous o´clock and
the heat and humidity, sleep was minimal. But that´s what lying on a beach is for. There was an array of animals that had taken up residence at the hostel. The girl I was camping next to woke up two nights in a row to a kitten sleeping in her bed. (Better than the famous hostel chicken of Semuc Champey in Mexico). For dog lovers, the staffs´dogs spent the nights chasing the crabs out of the restaurant and requesting pats from everyone. But best of all were the bunnies. After three days of really wanting to pat the bunnies I finally got my wish... a pat and a walk with the bunnies on their leashes. Yay bunnies!!!
So despite not seeing a toucan or a sloth there was enough wildlife around to keep me happy and very much impressed with Costa Rica. High on the list of MUST SEE places.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.089s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 7; qc: 45; dbt: 0.0379s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Linda
non-member comment
Lucky You
Hi Kylie, Lucky you being over there. We are expecting snow here in Canberra tomorrow, I would much rather be over there with you where it is hot. Have a good time and keep safe. Love from Linda and Tubby.