Mixed Feelings on the Capital City

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Simon Says...
Simon Bolivar, for the record, is the man in Latin America. If you don't already know, I'm not going to tell you.Our initial introduction to San Jose was quite interesting, though I suspect rather average.

We rolled into the infamous Coca-Cola bus terminal and were immediately beset upon by chants of, "Taxi! Taxi!" At first I tried to look around and get some bearings but the lack of street sinage makes this very difficult... near impossible. So we jumped into one and expected to take off any minute. Not so. After we told him where we were off to, Costa Rica Backpackers, he flips out his cell phone and tells us if we are without reservations it is unlikely that we would get a room. Then he flips through the numbers and dials one sort of like our destination, and talks briefly before handing me his cell. And, not surprisingly, the hombre informs me that they are full. Okay. Then, the driver proceeds to tell me that not only are they full, but Tranquillo and the rest of the are also full. But, luckily enough, he can find us a room just in the opposite direction. I may be a gringo but I am certainly not retarded and usually know a scam when I come across one. At this point I
Pre-Colombian Gold Artifacts I
The exhibit at the Banco Nacional's museum is a fascinating display of old-school artisrany.tell him we want our bags because we are now hungry and want to walk for a bite to eat. He obliges, opening the trunk and allows us to move along. And then the heavens open up and the rain really started to come down.

So I tell Jenny we should go into a terminal of some sort across the street to get organized and move along. Only seconds inside, some psychotic looking local follows us in and starts harrassing us in rapid fire Spanish, and just doesnt take my, "no comprende" as a hint. So I grabbed my knife and was ready to protect us if he got any more assertive, but luckily for all involved the guy behind the desk came out and told him to beat it. Then he helped us with the phone and we reserved a room at our full hostel.

Then we walked along in any direction away from the Coca-Cola area and tried in vain to get our bearings, again because of the lack of signage. So I went over to a pawn shop with a veranda and pulled out the San Jose map in the LP guide and tried to
Pre-Colombian Gold Exhibit II
Seen here is one of the largest gold nuggets ever found anywhere.get the guy to show us where we were. Not one, not two, but three guys tried to help us. Eventually, he came up with some directions, a block over, two blocks right and 100 metres. Then he says to wait a moment, and comes out with his umbrella and coat to show us. Wow, what a nice guy. But, he took us to the Banco de Costa Rica. Oh well, he sure did try.

After that, we grabbed a taxi and he took us to where we needed to go for a mere 600 colones.

Once settled in, for 11,400 colones/night for a double, we figured we would try to find a bank. Tougher than you would think. On our way home after giving up we found an ATM we had walked by before and withdrew enough cash to last most of the rest of the trip. After that was stashed safely in our room, we decided to stay in the compound for the night as anywhere decent to eat was super far away. The in house restaurant is surprisingly good, with meals costing a mere US5 bucks (no dollar symbol... what the??). I really recommend the
Teatro Nacional
The highpoint of the capital city (for our trip, at least) and rather striking.Thai Green Curry.

Today we went by taxi to the Mercado Central and looked around. Interesting, but nothing that really tickled our fancy. Random meanderings on the street lead us to an Artisans Market where Jenny bought a little something for her brother (dont want to ruin the surprise) that is really nice. Then we walked around some more and found a nice lady who speaks English in a Herbalife health-shake place. She wouldnt let us leave without having a free shake and pointed us in the right direction to find the museums and theatre.

After the most amazing caffe late ever - seriously - in the theatre cafe we inquired about a show. Of course, we missed it by 15 minutes. Ah well, such is life. So we went over to the pre-Colombian gold exhibit at the Banco Nacional Museum. Tres cool, indeed. Once we had checked all that out we hopped back to the theatre cafe for lunch and another latte. Then I had a traditional cappucino. I still cannot believe that the latte was only 500 colones. A dollar. And eggplant lasagne (lunch size) was 2,500 colones, and Jennys chicken avacado salad was about the
Ceiling Murals, Teatro Nacional
On the roof in the entranceway of the national theatre. When in San Jose, this joint is a must. Try the cafe, it's divine.same. Easily our best and favourite meal we have had yet. And, Jenny says, she still cant believe how good her hot chocolate was, which it was... just amazing.

Once we were full from protein shakes and lunch and lattes, we walked down Ave Central, a pedestrian walkway about 100 times the scale of Stephen Ave. back home. Finally Jenny found some flip flops she liked and in her size, after about 8 stores.

On the street there was one vendor in particular that piqued my interest with his wares of jewlery. Jenny noticed one set of silver looking dangly earrings in particular that my mom may like (sorry mom, no posters at the theatre) but then after a second of looking, the guy closed up his wooden suitcase style display case and went around the corner... because there were cops around. What the?? I looked at them, and nice as they were, there was something not quite right about the guy so I said no gracias and shoved off.

The rain came back and we ducked into a couple shops to look at trinkets and presents for people but all we found were postcards. Then we
Ceiling Mural, Teatro Nacional
Beside the other mural, they are neck-strainingly good.found some neat looking parks, and looked around at the statues and trees and fountains while we tried to find an available taxi to go home. Not able to spy one in decent time, we stopped off at an Irish Pub for greasy onion rings, black bean dip and tortillas and a Heineken (still only 2,900 colones all told though). Then it was time to go back as it was getting dark, and by all accounts that is a faux pas in this city.

Tomorrow we are off to either Tortugero or Cahuita, we still have yet to decide. But likely the former, which we would access via the canals.

We noticed tonight that two of our blogs were saved but not published, so hopefully that isnt too confusing. Thanks for the comments, we are having a blast and cant wait to experience the Afro-Caribbean culture (especially the plantains!) amid the humidity and beaches.

Ciao!

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Photos

Simon Says...
Simon Bolivar, for the record, is the man in Latin America. If you don't already know, I'm not going to tell you.

Pre-Colombian Gold Artifacts I
The exhibit at the Banco Nacional's museum is a fascinating display of old-school artisrany.

Pre-Colombian Gold Exhibit II
Seen here is one of the largest gold nuggets ever found anywhere.

Teatro Nacional
The highpoint of the capital city (for our trip, at least) and rather striking.

Ceiling Murals, Teatro Nacional
On the roof in the entranceway of the national theatre. When in San Jose, this joint is a must. Try the cafe, it's divine.

Ceiling Mural, Teatro Nacional
Beside the other mural, they are neck-strainingly good.