As each wave rolls in, another chance to feel the rush comes. Study the form, the speed, the direction. As the paddling begins, adreniline kicks in and paddling harder is the only option. You can feel when you have caught it, the wave seems to grab the board along for the ride. Standing and gaining control. Feel out the movement. Flying along the length of the wave, riding it in. The only thing to do now is paddle out again. Sitting on the board, up and down, as if the ocean is rocking you to sleep. The blazing heat from the sun begins to weaken. The colors begin to appear in the sky. Every color imaginable. The waves become harder to see, but the show grabs your attention and begs you to stay just a little
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