Today will be known as the day the surf world changed forever…because I entered the picture. Nate, from Oregon, was bunking in our room and Jerry and I discovered he was a surfer. We asked if he’d show us how and he said he would. Unfortunately, his bus left earlier than anticipated, so he couldn’t go to the beach with us, but determined, Jerry and I headed down to the beach and rented a board for ourselves. At first, it wasn’t pretty. I rode the board in a few times, as if it were a boogie board. The waves weren’t huge—but they weren’t small either! So we spied on the surf lessons that were happening around us, stole some tips, but still no luck. Jerry finally started talking to a local out in the waves who
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