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Published: July 18th 2008
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Two Toed Sloth
Our little wet friend Decisions! Decisions!
Where are we going to spend our last two weeks in Central America? Somewhere we´ve already visited or a new location?
Why not head back to Costa Rica then make up our minds.
A mere 11 hours on a coach from Leon to San Jose, can´t believe these journeys are starting to feel like a short hop. After needless fuss and bother at the border crossing we entered Costa Rica, it feels like we made a big mistake, it poured bucketloads all the way to the capital, yet in Nicaragua we hardly saw a raindrop!!
Too late now!!
Have to make the most of it, besides it might eventually stop raining.
San Jose is always wet, they should twin the city with Glasgow!!
We ignored the gloomy weather forecast and booked bus tickets to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, 4 pounds each for a 4 hour journey. As we´ve seen the Pacific Ocean so many times on our trip, it was an easy decision to head towards the Caribbean Sea for some reggae vibe. The route takes you into the Central Highlands, entering a mountain
tunnel then travelling through a cloud forest before descending to the coast.
The little beach resort of Puerto Viejo has a distinct Afro Caribbean flavour with laid back bars and a good selection of restaurants. In fact, the quality of meals has stepped up a gear, although it seems more expensive than anywhere else in the country. Found an excellent French restaurant and a place serving great Thai dishes called The Chile Rojo.
Our intended accommodation was the highly recommended Pura Vida Hotel run by a bossy German woman, however due to a group booking by New Yorkers on a Yoga holiday she only had availibility for one night. Settled for a place just round the corner called Jacaranda, it has lush gardens, brightly coloured mosaic pathways, and rooms with cool drawings on the walls. It was a good choice for 16 pounds per night, and Vera, the owner looked after us.
For 2 pounds each we hired bikes and cycled 7 Km to Punta Uva, the best beach we´ve seen in Costa Rica. The road is something else!! a real bonecrusher, so many potholes, if it´s dry then you´re covered in
Cahuita National Park
Secluded beach around the headland dust and when it rains it´s covered in puddles. Not forgetting the 4x4 vehicles constantly whizzing past!!
At the secluded beach I was stung on the sole of my foot by a wasp, thankfully Eileen was able to remove the black spike with the sac attached, it was fine after that.
I was a lot luckier than Eileen who has been stung twice during the previous two weeks, she had pain and a lump on her shoulder for days. Incredibly neither of us have ever been stung before!!.
Punta Uva Beach was so good we went for a second time, however we were caught in a torrential rainstorm and had to cycle back in a deluge. Amazingly this turned out to be a highlight of our trip. As we were cycling with our heads down in our yellow rainmates I noticed movement on the grass to our left.
We stopped to have a look, it turned out to be a rare two toed sloth on the ground walking towards us.
Most people are lucky to see this nocturnal animal from a distance but we were face to face with this little guy.
This drookit little sloth was
Poison Dart Frog
Botanical Garden in Puerto Viejo so cute!!!
Eileen just couldn´t believe how close we were!!!
Eventually, his curiosity wore off and he drifted back towards the trees.
Incidently, they are not as slow as we first thought.
50 pence for a bus journey to Cahuita, a place worth visiting. It´s even less developed than Puerto Viejo, wouldn´t have thought possible but it is!!
The attraction for us was the small National Park to the east of the village, A small donation takes you to a great beach and a trail around the headland alongside a living coral reef.
On our first visit we were fortunate to see lots of Howler Monkeys.
Went back again to Cahuita, Eileen spent time sunbathing at the beach whilst I trekked 8 Km through the park enjoying the natural surroundings and looking for wildlife. It was late in the afternoon before I started to see some larger species.
Believe it or not!! I came across another "rare" two toed sloth, perhaps they are not so rare, this one was a lot drier than the last!!
Witnessed more Howler Monkeys but best of all was the sight of a White Faced Cappuchin Monkey leaping through
the branches directly above my head. I also had a close up view of a Red Headed Woodpecker and not so close up view of some Toucans.
Back in laid back Puerto Viejo we walked to a Botanical Gardens, nothing like Glasgow, this was more uncultivated with lots of Poison Dart Frogs and Mosquitos. It´s very interesting but on the day we visited it was so hot!! On the way back we walked along Playa Negra, the sand on this beach is so black it´s almost blue.
Even although we are in a laidback little place, it didn't prevent a local bloke in dreadlocks from running amok with a strimmer when we were trying to take it easy. It never fails!!
Just yards from our hotel is a little gem of a place called Bread and Chocolate. Discovered they do great breakfasts, only thing was, the yoga group also discovered it!! Boy can they talk!! and loud!!
Maybe they serve more than bread and chocolate, well!! one of their group seemed to be on something.
She treated us to handstands, ballet dancing, and even bared her bum!!
This happened in the morning!!!
Gaun
Yerself Hen!!!!!!
Returned to Costa Rica Backpackers Guesthouse for the fourth time before our flight to the States, we arrived in our accommodation following some hassle from taxi drivers, only for me to immediately lock our room with the key inside. It was in one of their brand new ones, and only the owner had a spare key. Nobody knew where she was!! Returned about six hours later.
Our 8 weeks in Central America has come to an end. The highlights in Costa Rica are definitely natural, such as Volcanoes, rainforests, waterfalls and an incredible wildlife. Not quite as keen about their beach destinations although the Caribbean resorts have an undeniable charm.
I'm aware of my bias towards Nicaragua but this really is a fascinating country with a good future. For better or worse it will grow as a tourist destination. It possesses many of the attractions of surrounding countries. At the moment it is better value, it has a fine culture, but best of all, you'll find their people warm, friendly, and charming.
Next stop California!!!!
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RR
non-member comment
Enjoy California
Head up to Sonoma and check out the wineries. If you ever want to see your golf clubs again bring back a bottle of something really special (like a bottle of Sebastiani, Glen Ellen or some other esoteric red) and a sourgough loaf. Only kidding, just bring back Eileen >> her pals desperate to see her. Don't worry about the golf clubs John. They're in safe hands. Cash Converters came highly recommended you know !! See you two soon, RR