Liberia - the windy wild West of Costa Rica


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Published: February 15th 2023
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The bus dropped us off more or less right outside our first night's accommodation, Hotel Boyeros. We were a night ahead of our planned arrival so the Air B&B we had booked wasn't available. Instead we decided on a nice hotel with a pool to relax for a while. Liberia is located just an hour or so from Lake Arenal but climate-wise it's on a different planet - one with sun, heat and wind! We certainly made the most of the pool and there were some reasonable restaurants close by to keep us happy. After all that relaxing, we moved to the edge of the city and into our Air B&B apartmentfor three nights giving us plenty of time to explore the city and its surroundings.

Liberia is the capital of cowboy country and many of its streets do have a bit of a Wild Wild West feel to them! We were staying in the La Victoria district which certainly doesn't see many foreign visitors but everyone was very friendly and we even managed to have our hair cut. This is an activity not without risk. We have had terrible experiences, in Vietnam especially, but here they were great and even posed for a picture with us. I think they appreciated the novelty of some visiting gringos!!

So, what to do in a not-very-touristy city for a few days. Aside from laundry and the afore-mentioned haircuts, we had a very good wander around the central areas. The gleaming white church in the heart of the city is obviously the focal point and that's where the "Liberia" tourist sign is for your selfies. The big plaza alongside is currently undergoing major restoration work. Nearby we had hoped to find the Guanacaste Museum and learn something about the local culture. Despite having a website suggesting a few exhibits, it doesn't really exist. We spoke to the security guard on duty and she allowed us in for a wander around. The building itself is pretty interesting. It's an old military barracks which became a prison. You can climb up to the roof and get views of the city through the slits in the watchtowers, and you can explore the ground level where the cells were. At times they have cultural events in the courtyard and some of the rooms as well as music and dance classes, but a museum it is not! Still, at least there was something for us to see, unlike the Museo de Sabanero which was supposed to focus on the cowboy culture of the Guanacaste region. There were some lads hanging around outside where we thought it should be, but they had never heard of it. Even in the civic offices they said the only museum was the old prison.

Another potential point of interest is the Ermita de la Agonía which remained steadfastly closed during our visit. It is a lovely little chapel gleaming white, but our inability to find a way in did lead to a great experience. Whilst walking around trying to find a way in, I spotted some beautiful leather saddles through some railings and we ended up having a lovely chat with the craftsman who was making them. He told us about the wonderful cowboy fiesta which was just weeks away. By the looks of the
&t=9s">Youtube video we missed something special. If you are really interested, there's
">a 90 minute video subtitled in English telling you all about it in detail. Speaking Spanish has really helped with these little encounters on this trip.

The bus network from Liberia is quite good. Anything heading to Coco Beach will take you past the airport where, just
Hair Cut!Hair Cut!Hair Cut!
a couple of kilometres further on is the ">Hidden Garden Art Gallery. This really was a hidden gem but most of the pieces were way beyond our price range. We did get an $8 Christmas decoration though! There was art to everyone's taste and the American couple who run it have done well to assemble such a wonderful collection.

From there we took an Uber to the industrial estate opposite the airport. A strange destination for sure, but there was a very good reason to visit. There are two microbreweries there! At Papagayo Brewing Co we tasted a flight of six beers. The maracuya (passion fruit) beer was particularly tasty but in all honesty, everything was good, although the one infused with hibiscus was very much bottom of our list. Just around the corner is the impressive and award winning Numu Brewery. There we had a drink each, but had to be careful because of what we were doing later. It was a great morning out and we had lunch nearby at Monk and Capra Coffee Brewers, so you could call it a hat-trick of brewing experiences!

The reason we had to be careful was that Russ had arranged another busman's holiday. We could have just got the
Papaguayu BreweryPapaguayu BreweryPapaguayu Brewery
bus back to town, but one of the air traffic controllers came over to meet us and took us on a tour of the local air traffic control facility. It really was a pleasure to meet the whole team on duty and we saw both the radar room and the visual control room. For Russ is really was a trip down memory lane, and the controllers were really keen to practice their English explaining everything to Trish.

We felt Liberia was a nice place but it really needs to work on its tourist product if it's going to attract visitors. With a little effort this would be quite easy to achieve. Time waits for nobody though, and we arranged a transfer to our next destination with Tropical Tours Shuttles . Although expensive, it does save an awful lot of hassle on the bus, and it's more-or-less a door-to-door service with a change of bus in Nicoya.


Additional photos below
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One of many old buildingsOne of many old buildings
One of many old buildings
The closed chapelThe closed chapel
The closed chapel
A new saddleA new saddle
A new saddle
The main plaza is being reconstructedThe main plaza is being reconstructed
The main plaza is being reconstructed
Outside the old prisonOutside the old prison
Outside the old prison
Graffiti in an old prison cellGraffiti in an old prison cell
Graffiti in an old prison cell
Inside the old prisonInside the old prison
Inside the old prison
Nice old architectureNice old architecture
Nice old architecture
The wonderful hidden art galleryThe wonderful hidden art gallery
The wonderful hidden art gallery
Visiting Air Traffic ControlVisiting Air Traffic Control
Visiting Air Traffic Control
Numu BreweryNumu Brewery
Numu Brewery
Fresh coconutsFresh coconuts
Fresh coconuts
Inspirational signsInspirational signs
Inspirational signs
Oxherd StatueOxherd Statue
Oxherd Statue


16th February 2023

Wow!
For a second I thought you were in Liberia, West Africa! I had never heard of Liberia in Costa Rica :) Your descriptions and photos reminded me of similar places in Guatemala, and I can see what you mean by 'but it really needs to work on its tourist product'. As much as we loved those out of the way everyday type regional towns for showing us a very real picture of the country, that alone won't attract the tourist crowds (if that's what they want). Thanks for sharing a 'new' place with us :)
16th February 2023

Our pleasure!
Liberia reminded me in some ways of when I lived in Santa Cruz de la Sierra in Bolivia. I really do like towns/cities like that. We felt the same in David, Panama.
13th March 2023
Numu Brewery

Sampling Costa Rica
It looks like you are tasting your way through several Latin American countries. Some of the off the beaten track places are that way for a reason.

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