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Published: September 30th 2006
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We arrived in Belize on 20th September after flying from Rio de Janeiro via Miami to Cancun. From there we jumped on a bus to Playa del Carmen where we spent a few lazy days by the beach. We were in Belize just in time for the the 25th Independence Day celebrations.
Things were in full swing - music blaring from the speakers on the bus that we took to cross the border from Mexico and all the way into Belize City and when we arrived there was a real party atmosphere - music from an indeterminable amount of stereos and fireworks exploding overhead. Independence Day (21st September) in Belize comes in the wake of the partying for St George's Caye Day, on 10 September - and the parties just keep going.
We spent our first night in Belize city and the next morning we caught the ferry to Caye Caulker (pronounced Key Corker... or as the locals say, Key Carker). The celebrations were happening with just as much vigor on the little island as on the mainland and we arrived just in time for the street parade. There are only two main streets on the populated part of
Caye Caulker which take about 10 minutes to walk from one end to the other so the parade just kept on going up and down the street for a few hours and then it was time to relax and have a few drinks.
We were planning to spend 2 days on Caye Caulker but ended up staying for 4 - we were really seduced by it - so laid back, a truly Caribbean atmosphere. We spent our time there snorkelling around the reefs - we went on two trips, swimming with nurse sharks and stingrays and loads of other types of fish. We were hoping to spot some manatees but alas, that wasn't to be. The rest of the time we spent eating and swimming and generally taking it easy. There isn't a whole lot to do on the island - people come here and the other Cayes for snorkelling and diving mainly - and at night you just sit on the beach eating freshly caught, barbecued lobster and fish and downing a few beers.
Caye Caulker is not a place for a beach holiday really. We thought it would be but the coast is lined with dozens
of jetties (mainly for all the boats owned by the diving companies) so there isn't actually that much beach to lie around on - and we like to do a bit of lying around once in a while. However, Caye Caulker is actually made up of two islands and the stretch of water that separates them, called The Split, is where everyone goes to do a spot of swimming, and sunbathing on an old collapsed concrete pier - and down a few more beers.
On our arrival back into Belize city, we took a bus out to
Belize Zoo which is described as the best little zoo in the world. And we couldn't agree more. The selection of local animals and birds - jaguar, puma, macaws, tapirs and loads more - is fantastic and the setting in amongst natural tropical savanna has been really well thought out.
Next on the itinerary was a trip to San Ignacio which would be our base for a tour of
Caracol or El Caracol (the name is Spanish for "The Snail") - a large ancient Maya site located in the Cayo District of Belize. Caracol is about 25 miles south of San Ignacio
football Belize style
a derby match between Caye Caulker and San Pedro - unfortunately, Caye Caulker lost 4-2 Cayo, in the foothills of the Maya Mountains.
Ancient Caracol was one of the largest ancient Maya cities, covering approximately 65 square miles with an estimated peak population of up to 180,000 people. The site was rediscovered in 1938 and more extensive explorations and documention of the site was undertaken by the University of Pennsylvania in 1951 and 1953. A project of archaeological excavations and restorations of the ancient structures at Caracol started in 1985 and is ongoing. Out of the estimated 36000 buildings on the site, we visited under 1% and they were wonderful to see.
Obviously, in time and with enough funding, many more of these magnificent buildings will be excavated and opened for the public to view. It will be a great addition to the economy of Belize, just as Machu Picchu is to Peru and Angkor Wat to Cambodia - our guide couldn't help wondering though, when the littering and graffiti would start. It is a truly beautiful site and the day we visited, there were only our group of 4 people and about 10 others from 3 or 4 other tour groups - we didn't bump into any of the others all day.
At the moment, people respect and care for the site - the lack of litter and graffiti proves this but how long will it last? Perhaps the local battalion of the Belize army will keep everyone in check!
Next day, we took a gentle trip up the Macal River by canoe and swam in a crystal clear fresh spring water pool. Aaaah - this is the life!
Belize is a beautiful country, with it´s own unique atmosphere and wonderful people. You won´t walk down the street without people greeting you with a nod and a smile and it´s not just the adults, younger people and kids do it too. The people of Belize are a truly mixed bunch - indigenous Mayans, immigrants from all the countries that were part of the Commonwealth (Indians, Africans, Lebanese, Chinese, Palestinian - the president´s origins - Europeans and many more) and they are genuinely happy to be so. They are very proud of the many cultures that make up their society - you actually do hear people saying that they are one people.
The Belicean currency still has the image of Queenie on it - looking very young indeed! The government
Caana, Caracol
the tallest man made structure in Belize had a referendum on the currency and the people of Belize decided to keep it as it is - many people believe that the currency would be devalued if Liz wasn´t on it anymore. Beliceans seem to have a genuine fondness for the UK and they welcomed us with open arms.
We'll be back....you better Belize it!
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bobinbelize
Bob Peiwzer
Glad you enjoyed the Trip
Off course there is so much else you haven't seen. I was looking through this website http://www.mybelizeadventure.com/ and i realized that we too had missed much as well. It will take a couple more trips to get a full appreciation. We can't wait to go back