Reddening leaves on the vines frame the view across the lake with Europes finest mountains as a backdrop. My hands are sticky with sweet grape juice and the lingering flavour of cheese in my mouth reminds me of thoughts I had in China not long ago: Waking up to another breakfast of fish-heads, chicken feet and pig ears, I longed so dearly for the cheese, chocolate and good bread I had experienced in Switzerland years before. I also longed for some clean, cool water to swim in. Now I have it all! It sounds ideal... good food, friendly people, a beautiful location, and to be honest it is pretty close to it, just the aching back to keep things on a plain. Having spent the last half year struggling to understand the local languages, it is
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