Page 11 of sapere18 Travel Blog Posts


Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Ayutthaya June 30th 2007

I love train travel. Though not the enthusiast who clings to his childhood by converting his basement into a functional railway system in miniature, train travel always trumps going by motor vehicle. Departing at 12:55 on platform seven, the Ordinary from Bangkok to Ayutthaya is no exception. An archeological find in most other countries, forty-year old electric oscillating fans bolted to the ceiling move the damp air around the wagon. The paint on the bars of the overhead luggage rack is dry and chipped. The platform which supports passengers’ belongings is of torn chain links. As I am the first to board, I grab a spot by the air conditioning system: a screenless timber framed window so wide, a Holstein could squeeze through on the first try. Only the watchful eye of parents hinders children from ... read more
Ceiling Fan
Struggling For Sleep
The Wrong Side Of The Tracks

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok June 30th 2007

Thais from every walk of life frequent Bangkok’s multifarious entertainment options. But the core of the city’s notorious nightlife was born over thirty years ago in Patpong, on Silom Road. The time has come to get the unlock backlog of expat nightlife instincts out of my system while in Bangkok. For those of you hoping for torrid accounts of my throwing money at girls in their late teens contorting themselves around chrome plated poles and themselves for my pleasure, you will be rather disappointed. I am an outsider who takes a peek in to learn, not to indulge. A self-contained facility of beer bars, tacky market stalls of mundane merchandise, and the infamous go-go bars bathed in multicolored neon lights, Patpong needs no further explanation. My tuk-tuk driver pointed out what he thought I wanted to ... read more

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok June 27th 2007

By the time I reached the halfway point of my directionless expedition on foot to the Grand Palace, the light grey of my T-shirt had succumbed to blotches of perspiration from my lower back through my shoulders. My unsightly appearance and discomfort only underscored what came to mind yesterday: Do Thais sweat at all? Landscapers perform back twisting work in baking temperatures and direct sun. They remain bone dry. I step outside my room and go downstairs for breakfast, and it is time for another T-shirt. Unbelievable. I begrudgingly performed my official duty of sightseeing today. My detour through Thammasat University on the Chao Phraya River brought back my college days. Under other circumstances, I would have tried to look in on a few classes, but the language is far too great an impediment. Yet, I ... read more
Half of Osaka
Statues on Guard

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok June 26th 2007

Bangkok is a frenetic urban steam bath of shops, food stalls, and markets sheltered by a growing glossy skyline. Its historical welcome center for its ex-patriot counterculture is Khao San Road, a Walt-Mart Supercenter of backpacker frugality. Whatever you heard about Khao San, some of it is probably true: soulless, a Caucasian ghetto, substandard guesthouses for budgetarily challenged twentynothings. A singular street supported by a few alleyways and covered corridors in its vicinity, Khao San is a foreigners’ prison of British pop tunes where the inmates remain voluntarily. All the appropriate infrastructure is provided. Touts insistently peddle nightclubs, but refrain from going overboard as the tourist police keep a watchful eye so as not to disturb the contributors that keep the neighborhood prosperous. Travel agencies, tailor shops, massage parlors, cheap eateries and ex... read more
Tuk-Tuk
King Rama IV

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok June 23rd 2007

Sixteen years ago, I pulled into Amsterdam’s Centraal Station at dusk only to step over the entrenched vagrant residents and huddled below the yellow departure boards and dodge the aggressive American and British beggars imploring me for one more guilder so they could get home after losing it all from a thief. Warmoesstraat and its environs, the city’s transient bohemian quarter for $5-a-day inquisitors such as myself or others wishing to extend their Amsterdam indulgence beyond their means, was awash in neon-framed twenty-four hour sex shops, street-to ceiling window chambers of carnal window shopping, and coffee shops where caffeine was not the primary elixir of desire. The worn sheets and torn bedcovers of the only room I could afford were evidence of interludes not intended for guests to get much sleep. The drapes emitted wafts of ... read more

North America » United States » Texas » Big Bend December 25th 2006

It is said that no one from West Texas appreciates outsiders telling them what to do or assigning them an identity that has already been well-established for decades. It is the genesis of an inflated pride that covers this mammoth state from El Paso to Texarkana. Many, like me consider such boasting simply naïve delusions of grandeur. Where southeast New Mexico is nonchalantly considered a suburb of the obvious, it is hard to imagine that a single state can be bigger in the minds of its admirers than its geographic parameters. My home state could easily fit into one of its lesser-known counties, but with exponentially more inhabitants. As the South Central plains evolve into the foothills and buttes of the American Southwest, lonely farm windmills pump scarce water. They stand as silent sentinels before rising ... read more
Movie Set?
Finally
A Mid-Winter's Dream

North America » United States » West Virginia » Fayetteville November 29th 2006

Hawks Nest State Park is the West Virgnia’s version of visiting the New River Gorge without the assistance of the National Park Service. Set amidst an inn and banquet facility that more resembles a stark and cubic university administration building, the restaurant overlooks the gorge and a tramway that shuttles visitors to the river below for jetboat tours on the New River. Between the state park and Carol’s old high school near Winona, the scenery rarely changes from hilly mountain passes, rough and austere mobile homes, and a Baptist church about every 400 yards, or so it seems. “It’s the Bible Belt here”, remarks Carol. “I saw a Catholic church back near Glen Ferris.” “Yeah. The Italians (long “I” in her pronunciation) came here to work in the mines. See all the stone work on the ... read more
New River Bridge
Hawk's Nest State Park

North America » United States » West Virginia » Fayetteville November 28th 2006

West Virginians are an affable and approachable bunch. So, coming from grumpy and aloof New England, I needed time to make the adjustment. However informal they are in appearance, the hospitality more than compensates. The mountain twang of their accent leaves me on the verge of letting out a violent chuckle. Conversations are prolonged, and many have taken in genuine interest in me and my visit here. The Mountain Laurel Restaurant in Fayetteville is under new management and undergoing renovations. Locals come and go during lunch and dinner. As I sat down at the bar and glanced at the menu, the owner came up to, welcomed, and invited me back for dinner, not having eaten lunch yet. That was before I got his name. Sean is a partner in the business and did not hesitate to ... read more
An Assortment of Trinkets
Fancy Decorations

North America » United States » West Virginia » Fayetteville November 27th 2006

I booked four nights at a rustic mountain cottage, the New River. Doug and Sally have not been managing the facility for a year yet. As I pulled up off the single lane road and past the red barn mailbox, two dogs, close to a Golden Retriever, and an indescribable mutt of easily a dozen breeds, raced at me from behind a barn, both barking sternly. Naturally, my first reaction was to dive back in the car and try to defend myself with a can of mace to ensure they would not prance off with any of my internal organs. But, at second glance, they were harmless and simply there to greet me. The canine welcome became official when the larger pooch peed on the left front fender of my car. Now having been approved by ... read more
Source of Heat
Nighty-night

North America » United States » West Virginia » Fayetteville November 26th 2006

West Virginia is a place apart, mildly forgotten as it is lodged between more noticeable states: Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia. West Virginia has already established its own unpolished identity, no longer interested in being just the western version of its eastern and more refined counterpart by the same name. Only a full day’s drive from New England, it is a state comfortable with itself, however injurious the stereotypes it has had to endure. It will take very little time to realize that West Virginia is far cry from a clan of self-described ignorant hillbillies that are all related to each other. Up and coming, it is of inaccessible valleys and rock face drenched in American history. West Virginia constantly struggles between preserving the charm of its slow-paced, rural lifestyle and prospering in an ever-changing 21st century. ... read more




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