There is no way I can share the last 6 days in detail, it would make pretty sad reading. I knew the trek was going to be “jolly hard work”, maybe “a physical challenge of unprecedented proportions”, or maybe even “dreadful”. So why and how did I come to be on it at all when I had said quite clearly and loudly last September when the subject first reared it’s troublesome head in the Lowe household those immortal and much ignored words: “I AM NOT DOING THE W TREK”. Now I am not a difficult person and have used this sort of direct language only rarely in the last 30 years and one would like to think that my clear and unenthusiastic response would at least have been noted. But somehow (and I have yet to ... read more

So our cattle freighter day finally arrived. Didn't know whetherto wear my full milking maid costume but decided to leave it in my rucksack for later. We had to check in at a very posh Holiday Inn where the doorman took a look at us and wouldn't let us near the lift to the public rooms but ushered us up the stairs to where others in the same state as us were waiting. A mountain of rucksacks and interesting people awaited us. The actual boat was 15 km away so we boarded a bus for our trip to the freighter depot. Our cabin was 506 so 5 flights of steps to carry our stuff. Wonderful boat with about 85 passengers and freight. NO COWS. I thought we should ask for a refund. We will pass down ... read more

As we stepped onto a ferry, from Dalcahue in Chiloe to another even smaller Chiloen island, Jan caught the eye of a very engaging and characterful co-driver of a truck (we later discovered his name was Alexandro). Much gesticulating through his window ensued (he was trapped in the cab by cars). The dregs of a large bottle of vino tinto were offered to us through the window. When this was declined (as it was just after breakfast) he assured us in wild Spanish that it was purely for medicinal purposes as he had a sore throat. He and his mate Juan offered to take us to our destination the other end of the island so picked us up once the ferry had unloaded. Please do not tell our children that we have been hitch-hiking as it ... read more

Unseasonably hot and humid today I sit at the family dining table accompanied by the gentle tapping of a Danish keyboard. Beside me Ellen is studiously learning Spanish verb conjugations in silence; a prospect I can only dream of. From the sixth floor flat we have a splendid view of the mountains across the lake. Last night we ventured into town after dinner to have a social drink and perhaps some music if we were lucky. Five minutes later we entered a section of closed roads and passed the first of four packed pubs with bands playing, all within 100 metres. More than a thousand people of all ages were out there. There was much happiness in the air. People danced unselfconciously with hips that twisted beyond typical British restrain. Babies wobbled on parent’s knees, soaking ... read more

With a 10 days to go, it seems our preoccupations are (in no particular order): making sure we leave our work in some semblance of order only selecting things to take that are either essential (shampoo, summer skirt and sandals) or light (tent, airbeds, sleeping bags etc etc) working out how cold it will be, in January, at night, in our tent in Torres del Paine. Answers offered range from very to not very. Turns out the cosy Vango"Banshee" is designed for two lying top to tail. Jan's gone banshee at the thought of sleeping with my feet Our sleeping mats are Big Agnes brand. When I describe lying on top of Big Agnes, please remember I am not referring to my beloved wife. you might be wondering about the relevance of the photo; as we ... read more