Page 3 of oldlowesontour Travel Blog Posts


South America » Ecuador » Centre » Central Highlands February 23rd 2020

You might have noticed a passing reference to El Nariz del Diablo in our last blog. WELL this amazing feat of engineering deserves at least a blog spot of its own and maybe more than one! In the late 1800s the Ecuadorian government decided to build a railway from Quito to Guayquil to link the two main areas of the country and stop every one fighting with everyone else. They started in Guayquil on the coast and proceeded splendidly through the coastal plain until they hit THE ANDES. The Andes are one heck of a obstacle and the railway ground to a halt and over the next few years began to be overgrown and abandoned. The story goes that an English born financier, Archer Harman, who had a brother John who was a civil engineer, was ... read more
Only a small one but a lovely example of a Warren truss
Just before the path became "mortally steep"

South America » Ecuador » Centre » Central Highlands February 22nd 2020

So our blog spots have gone a bit wonky due to editorial problems (i.e. we've got in a muddle). The last blog should have appeared before the one before it but Pete was so traumatised by nearly having to find a new sourdough maker he was unable to write for a few days. Let me take you back to us waking up in Riobamba after our Chimborazo excitement and realising we had missed the bus to Alausi. We hot-footed it to the bus station to find it was CARNIVAL. We had failed to realise what a big thing Carnival is throughout Ecuador (as well as everywhere else in South America). Obtaining bus tickets is always a dark art. If you walk into a ticket office you are accosted by ticket sellers yelling at you through the ... read more
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These stilt men were about 15 feet high!
We just loved these chubby chaps.

South America » Ecuador » Centre » Chimborazo February 20th 2020

Today was a first for me (Jan) when I was heard to pronounce that going up was easier than going down…...sounds a bit unlikely? Unlikely but true! Today was funny old day…..We left our hostel at 0630hrs in a cross country vehicle with 9 bikes on its roof and 8 people in the car- 2 Brazilian geologists (very useful when on a volcano), 2 Dutch youngsters, us, a driver and a guide. Our goal was Mount Chimborazo, which is the point on the earth that is nearest to the sun. It's not as tall as Everest at 6263m but because of the Equatorial bulge, it's actually furthest away from the centre of the earth and therefore nearest to the sun! Well we weren't trying to climb to the top (thank goodness) but we were dropped at ... read more
Before we started....look at those intermediate smiles
The top of Chimborazo in the clouds
The END of the day...why am I leaning backwards?

South America » Ecuador » Centre » Quilotoa February 17th 2020

The final push.Today was the day when we were either going to conquer the Quilotoa Loop or it was going to conquer us. Even chances, slightly weighted towards victory to the mountain if you were a betting man. We were on our way by 0800hrs with 980m to climb before we reached the marvellous spectacle that is the Quilotoa crater….an ancient volcano that lost its top in an explosion of massive proportions, leaving a crater that is 250m deep and filled with greeny blue water. We had seen photos and it did look amazing. But first there was the small matter of getting up there. The first hour and a half was spent on a descent into a river valley through beautiful farmlands where every inch was cultivated no matter how steep the slope. We promise ... read more
Our ploughing champion
We made it to the crater's edge
How beautiful is that?

South America » Ecuador » Centre » Quilotoa February 16th 2020

Our move to the Quilota Loop didn’t start well, when the taxi that was meant to take us to the correct bit of the hard shoulder of the Pan American highway for the Latacunga bus, failed to arrive. We leapt on the local bus and sped down the hill to the town of Otavalo where we jumped into a taxi and arrived at the aforementioned hard shoulder spot in time to wait for an hour and and half until we could get onto the right bus. (There was an earlier bus and we had got there first but there was no point arguing with a group of Ecuadorians who felt they had a right to get on the bus rather than us.) Luckily we were able to leave our stuff that we didn't need for the ... read more
We had to get the other side of the valley by bed-time....
Contract lawn mowers, arriving at supper time
Dodgy or what?

South America » Ecuador » North » Otavalo February 11th 2020

Our first 2 days in Ecuador were spent at a great hostel in Quito (Hostel Revolution) getting used to the altitude and finding the central market for supplies and lunch. We decided not to have the potatoes and leather or the leather and booklet! We learned that the bus system of Quito takes a bit of getting used to….we were warned to keep each other and our other valuables closely guarded which seemed ok until we finally, after a couple of false starts due to nerves, managed to barge our way onto the bus which was soooo crowded that you had to literally throw yourself off the approach ramp which are built into the bus stops and onto the bus before the doors shut. At one point I (Jan) was on the bus but the doors ... read more
Lunch at 4000m overlooking Las Lagunas de Mojandas
Scrambling? I don't think so....

Europe » United Kingdom » England » Buckinghamshire February 3rd 2020

With 12 hours til we go, we have been reading the previous blogs from our Patagonian adventure and wondering how this trip will be different.... Well, the main difference is that there will only be the two of us on this trip. Yes, Tiny Tim (our Tiny tent) is NOT coming with us this time. Call it fool-hardy if you like but it seems that Ecuador has plenty of hostels and plenty of people who might look kindly on a couple of old people with nowhere to stay. So GOOD RIDDANCE to Tiny Tim that's what I say! Another difference will be that we will have lighter backpacks so we can walk even further and be even more joyful ....Jan's is currently 7.9kg and Pete's is 11.5kg. Jan has the empty water bottles, 3 pairs of ... read more

South America » Argentina » Buenos Aires » Buenos Aires April 3rd 2018

By an amazing stroke of luck, our hostel in Buenos Aires turned out to be in the hippy, bohemian area (San Telmo) where the tango developed, alongside impoverished poets and artists. Turns out that men used to dance the tango together as it was a illegal for a woman and a man to dance it together and the only women who would dance it were the prostitutes. But now everyone dances the tango and it is simply amazing. Pete and I have tried in the past to learn the Argentinian tango and concluded that it was impossible for us to dance this most gorgeous of dances with each other. Of course we have different hypotheses for why this is the case. One of these hypotheses revolves around one of us being very difficult to lead and ... read more
Or even this.....
At the Boca!
What do you think? A tango dancer's leg or a lovely concrete bridge?

South America » Argentina » Misiones » Puerto Iguazú March 29th 2018

Whether it was the effect of the reblochon or some other reason, our pilot needed two goes at landing in Iguazzu and then we found out that our luggage had remained in Buenos Aires. We were reunited with our lovely rucksacks only a couple of hours later which was a real blessing. We were already looking slightly out of place in a tropical airport wearing our hiking boots (too heavy to pack so we always wear then when travelling) and trousers while everyone else was in flipflops and shorts, and we were considering with dismay and a certain amount of hilarity what we would wear to visit the Iguazzu Falls in the jungle the following day if our luggage failed to arrive. Our hostel in Puerto Iguazzu has achieved the unenviable status of “worst place to ... read more
I'm sure someone must have thought about this......
Releasing the reblochon....
The view from the Brazilian side...

South America » Argentina » Mendoza » Mendoza March 27th 2018

Mendoza is definitely our kind of town. Sunny, gorgeous wine, amazing nosh of all descriptions and plenty of pavement cafes in the shade. After our rather poor start in the bus station, we headed off to dump our rucksacks at our hostel and explore the town. We only had one day before we headed out into the Altas Montanas (the Andes) so we wanted to make the most of it. We found pavement cafes for coffee, a veggie takeaway for a picnic in the park and an amazing parilla (barbeque using wood) for a steak supper. Oh does it sound as though we did nothing but eat? Funny that! We did manage a walk round the park in between lunch and dinner but I don't recall much about that. Thankfully we knew we were returning after ... read more
And the view the other way, towards Mendoza
Oh hooray, my sort of path, where humans may not tred....
Lying in a park in Menodoza, looking at the sky. How arty AP and Rich?




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