Ladakh has, without a doubt, been the best part of my trip. That said, it got off to a slow start. While waiting outside the Delhi airport (they wouldn’t let us in until after 4:00) in the wee hours of the morning for my 5:45AM flight, I could feel a scratch in my throat, and by the end of the day I had a cold. Fortunately my guesthouse in Leh is spectacular, so I spent my first four days just hanging out, recovering from the cold and adjusting to the change from more or less sea level to 11,500 ft, the altitude of Leh. My room is about 14x17 ft and sits on the corner of the house, so two walls are solid windows looking out over Leh, the Indus valley, and the Stok massif
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