India from the air is so neatly segregated into squares that it looks like a mosaic made in brown and...brown, cut into segments by ribbons of road-railway-river, stretching away as far as the eye can see. Delhi is a huge sprawling city - in some places the houses form regimented grids, in some they just spread out and round, right the way up to riverbanks and forest edges. It is a long drive from the airport to the hotel. The Indians drive on the same side of the road to us, for what it's worth, but more often than not the road is one way. Cars, buses, motorbikes and bicycles - with and without trailers - jostle for position. There are no road markings, although a lot of building work is being done and the newer
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