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Published: August 7th 2007
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Delhi is not a good place to meet other tourists. The only westerners I met there were two girls from England, who admired me for coming away on my own, but who's smiles faded somewhat when I said I was hoping to meet people along the way to travel with.
For the first two days, I saw Delhi from the back of a car, with the driver stopping at various monuments for me to jump out and take pictures. It was nightmarish. Hayuman's tomb and Quatab Minar were very impressive (photos to follow when I find an internet cafe with USB), and the Mahatma Ghandi museum was great - totally interactive and lots to do. Unfortunately they were about to close for lunch when I arrived so I was rushed through and didn't see much. I also saw the Lotus temple, (where I met a very nice indian family who chatted to me for a bit) the Indigo temple, the Indira Ghandi museum, and Mahatma Ghandi's cremation site.
On day 3, due to a very persistent tout (and in part due to my mental image of the Himalayas) I found myself on a plane to Srinagar. It is in
Kashmir but the tavel agent assured me it was quite safe (and he was right; although the police presence is very visible, it's not oppressive in the slightest). He promised me mountains, a houseboat, tourists, trekking. He lowered the price by 60 quid and most of all it provided an opportunity to get away from Delhi.
I met a group of Norweigans at the airport who were very friendly, and chatted to them for a bit which was nice. They were going to book their own boat when they got there, whereas mine was already booked, so no real opportunity to join them.
I got off the plane and the air was cool and fresh, I could see snow covered Himalayas - we got to the town and the lake was full of Houseboats; to get to the one I was in we had to take a smaller boat (a shikara) from the shore. It was the total antithesis of Delhi. I loved it.
Then I met the manager. He made me read the visitors book from the last 10 years or so, and look at lots of pictures. He told me repeatedly I was part of
the family, and they would look after me, which would have been more endearing if he hadn't been out to bleed me dry. He drew up a seven day plan including trekking and sightseeing, and asked for 400 pounds. I said I needed time to think. He gave me half an hour, and made me read more recommendations from guests. I declined, and said I wanted to see the town. He refused to let me go without a guide, and being stuck in the middle of the lake I didn't have a huge amount of choice. The guide declined to let me visit the local shops, took me to three mosques and then a cashmere retailer, where he was surprised to find me refusing to buy a 50 quid sweater.
I arrived back at the houseboat to find my meal prepared, and more people waiting to sell me stuff. I went to bed, resolving to leave the next day unless he let me out on my own.
By the morning I had relented somewhat; I was in the Himalayas after all and should really go up into the mountains. I booked a one day excursion for tomorrow, leaving
me today free to do what I want. Somehow, this translated into a boat ride, more expensive shops and a visit to the mogul gardens (not as impressive as they sound - basically very simlar to grove park). I'm in the town at last now, but there is a man waiting outside to take me back to the boat when I'm done (I'm going to try very hard to give him the slip).
On tuesday, I have a bus booked to Jammu. Just a bus, no hotel at the other end, or tour that I have to go on. Hopefully there I will be able to find a cheaper hostel and actually meet some people to travel with. Everyone here thinks that I'm rich becuase I'm english, and the prices of gifts etc really aren't much cheaper than back home. Because I'm on my own I'm told it's not safe to go out alone, and guides come with me to show me the bits that they want me to see. Because of this,I never meet anyone and I'm still alone. It's a vicious circle. I'm trying very hard to break it, but we'll see. If I can't, I'm contemplating
moving my flight forward and leaving India to try my luck in Malaysia.
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chris
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hey hannah, i travelled extensively through kashmir 4 years back at the height of terrorism, because of the militancy your movement might always be restricted and due to travel advisories you wont find many westerners there, from jammu you should move to himachal pradesh- manali or dharamshala, there you wont face problems about travelling alone and are likely to meet someone to travel with .... take care and best of luck chris