As you walk through Saigon Airport, you are becalmed by the quietness and simplicity of it all. A fairly modern building, there is none of the chaos of some of the larger European airports. The immigration desks are plentiful and the officials are efficient. They will stare at your passport and then stare at you, as if looking for the slightest difference between the person in the photo and person standing before them. They check photo and person again, and at this stage you can start to become a little nervous. Have I changed that much in the 8 years since getting my passport? (Well yes actually, but under close scrutiny I am clearly either the person in the photo or his older wiser brother). Now, after actually being allowed entry into the country, you descend
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