Before my arrival here, the mention of Delhi conjured an image of too many people and too many rickshaws, of crowds and traffic struggling for space, of staring eyes and blaring horns. It evoked the smell of spices, frying oil, and human excrement. To be sure, Delhi is all of this, but it is also much more. As my host Vidhi told me, “Delhi is built on the ruins of seven different cities and more than 50 different empires. It has over 1,400 monuments, most of which are over 400 years old.” If you don’t know where to look, it can be easy to miss the secluded shrines and tucked-away temples; to walk right past the history. The most surprising thing about Delhi, however, is all of the green – the tree-lined roads and parks where
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