Varanasi was a city I thought possibly best avoided. The city has a reputation based on the chaos of river boat touts, beggars galore, public cremations and fairly recent bombings. Actually the most recent attack was when I visited India in 2007, a bomb detonated in a courthouse killing 20 and injuring more than 100. But there was no tension upon arrival and in fact it seemed rather calm after the mass of humanity in Bodhgaya. I was traveling with Jamie and her friend Christina, whom she met at a recent Tibetan Buddhist course in Nepal. We also hooked up with their friend Dan and the four of us explored Varanasi together. The old city has many narrow streets with the smell of urine, incense, burning trash, chai and cow shit. Mark Twain said of Varanasi
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