Thanks for all the comments and e mails, particularly regarding my apperance which were really welcome (eg, "it looks as though Suze is taking her terminally ill Grandad on one last trip before he croaks"). The Nivea anti-ageing wrinkle rifle has since been plucked from the bottom of my ruck sack and will have a key part to play in the coming weeks. We spent the best part of a week in Rurrenabaque, a jungle village on the banks of the River Beni, where we arrived via a 12-seat, military twin-prop plane which landed on a grass airstrip. From here we went on a 3-day Pampas tour which was incredible. Without any exaggeration, on the three-hour motorised canoe ride to our camp we didn´t go more than 5 seconds without seeing a crocodile, alligator, water rodent,
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