Page 5 of PurpleDeborah Travel Blog Posts


Europe » Spain » Aragon » Sos del Rey Catolico August 25th 2014

This morning we headed for Castillo de Loarre, a castle that as we approached it appeared to me to be a pop-up from a picture books. It is the best preserved Romanesque castle in Europe and was fabulous to walk through with an audio guide to get a real sense of how it functioned. The castle was the fortification on the border of Catholic Aragon and Al-Andulus (Muslim Spain). It's interesting to think what would have happened if the Catholics had not won at that point and begun the Reconquista: Europe today might be Muslim - and European history would almost certainly have been kinder to the Jews. We are now in another pretty medieval town: Sos del Reys Catolicos, a very quiet place with winding alleys but without the views or pretty cafés of Alquezar. ... read more
Sos del Reys Catolicos
Fortifications, Castillo de Loarre
Church inside Castillo de Loarre

Europe » Spain » Aragon » Alquezar August 24th 2014

Alquezar in Aragon must be a candidate for the prettiest town in Spain, if not Europe. It is cut into the hillside and every aspect is gorgeous. It is named for the old fortress that began life as a Muslim fortification and then became a Catholic monastery. We just loved the old cobbled streets and the views. Every time we turned a corner there was another magnificent vista. It was a perfect choice for an overnight stop as the town is also pretty by night with key buildings floodlit. We ate dinner at one of the sidewalk cafés with a fantastic outlook. We took our time getting here. Before we left Catalonia we had a beautiful walk along a lovely lake to an old monastery in the Garrotxa National Park. We ate a delicious lunch of ... read more
Alquezar at night
Alquezar restaurant
Alquezar

Europe » Spain » Catalonia August 23rd 2014

Apologies for the clichéd title of this blog but there is really no other way to describe two days spent in the company of Salvador Dali and his muse Gala - not to mention wandering through the pretty fishing village of Cadaques, the magically-preserved medieval town of Besalau and finishing at the luxurious Parador de Vic-Sau, overlooking the magnificent volcanic mountains and delicious lake of the Parc National de Garrotxa in Northern Spain. We began our Dali pilgrimage yesterday morning at the Museu-Testro Dali in Figueres. It really is astonishing, albeit exceedingly crowded. Of course we have seen a lot of Dali, including the huge exhibition in Melbourne a few years ago, but Dali's Museum is a work in itself and has lots of huge pieces and installations that cannot travel. The building - a former ... read more
Can you see Gala or Lincoln?
Mae West room
Cadaques

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Girona August 21st 2014

We left Barcelona this morning and headed north to the lovely medieval town of Girona. Walking around the old walls - the Passeig Archeologic - was delightful. It's not a complete circuit like the walls of Jerusalem but instead weaves through gardens of cypruses, olive trees and flowering shrubs, up towers and into tiny corners and plazas, all accompanied by the bells of multiple churches at regular intervals. After all the walking (not just today but over the past three weeks) it was great to stumble over 'Dr Fish', a spa that provides fish which nibble the dead skin off your feet. I've heard about them and always wanted to try it. It's a fabulous feeling, a little ticklish but very soothing. We should definitely have one at dance camps! Girona had one of the largest ... read more
Girona
Dr Fish

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Barcelona August 20th 2014

Our last day in Barcelona - though we do have a few extra hours en route home. We spent it at the Picasso Museum. Picassomwas a student in Barcelona where he got to know all sorts. His first painting in a Paris exhibition was originally titled The Brothel. He was asked to change it so called it Las Demoiselles d'Avignon but the joke was on them because Avignonis the name of the street where the art school is which was frequented by the prostitutes was called Calle de Avignon! The Barcelona museum doesn't have many the great works but it does have a great sampling of his various periods and the full collection of Las Meninas, Picasso's awesome reinterpretations of a Velasquez work of the same name. We really loved those and I was so glad ... read more
 Parc de la Ciutadella
image

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Barcelona August 19th 2014

One of the many things I love about travel is being in cities with layers of history through continuous occupation. Barcelona like Rome, Athens and Jerusalem, is a place where people live literally on top of history. Today we went to the Museum of the History of Barcelona, built on top of massive excavations of the original Roman city of Barcino, which we walked through with an excellent audio guide that explained the dyeing vats, wine presses, fish sauce factory, bath house and early church that had been excavated. It was a great tour. There was also a section on Medieval Barcelona and a special exhibition on the world in 1700. I found the latter really helpful to understanding the importance of the Spanish War of Succession and the balance of power in the 18thC. If ... read more
Courtyard former Aragonese Palazo Real
Cathedral from Palazo Real
Play in the Placa

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Barcelona August 18th 2014

My facial muscles are sore from smiling so much! Modernista architecture is so playful and humorous. Today we saw two more great examples: the Palau de Musica Catalana by Domenich i Montaner and Gaudi's landscaping masterpiece, Parc Guell. The Palau, Barcelona's Arts Centre is a ridiculous confection governed. Y the aesthetic principle that more is more. It is filled with literally and figuratively dotty stained glass, oriental columns and colourful ceramic rosettes. not exactly my style but heaps of fun. We loved Parc Guell, a huge park which includes a gorgeous monumental area designed by Gaudi. There are a couple of wacky gingerbread houses, a terrace edged in the most stunning mosaics, an amazing series of steps featuring a mosaic dragon and a huge cool (again literally and figuratively) covered portico with 86 columns. There is ... read more
Parc Guell
Palau de Musica Catalana interior
Parc Guell

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Barcelona August 17th 2014

Another absolutely awesome day! One of the major attractions of Barcelona is the architecture of Antonio Gaudi, leading light of the Modernista movement whose fanciful, decorative and often symbolic work is emblematic of Barcelona. Although my own architectural taste is usually for clean simple lines, there's something about his fairy tale fantasies and organic forms that is just gorgeous. Gaudi's most important work is the Sagrada Familia, the church he started work on in the late 19th century and which is still being built. It is an astonishing structure and a massive undertaking, both from an engineering and an artistic viewpoint (I've learned rather a lot about structural engineering on this trip!) The church is incredibly detailed and every detail has symbolic, physical and aesthetic reasoning behind it. We spent a couple of hours there with ... read more
Sagrada Familia
Casa Batlo facade
Sagrada Familia

Europe » Spain » Catalonia » Barcelona August 16th 2014

Barcelona is a fantastic city: the pulse of Tel Aviv, the history of Rome, great food, music, culture...and it's warm! I love this place. We arrived in the evening and the first thing I discovered was how good the tapas are. The bars are literally covered in choices - though not eating ham or shellfish narrows it down a bit. The couple of times I have eaten tapas in Melbourne they were not exciting but here they are a forum to be creative with combinations and flavours, using small amounts of top quality ingredients piled high on a slice of baguette. My favourite featured half an egg, an anchovy, a white asparagus, tomato and olive tapenade. Yum! We are staying in the very evocative Barri Gothic, the old town which is a maze of twisting streets ... read more
Temple of Augustus
Barcelona Cathedral
Hebrew stone in Cathedral wall

Europe » United Kingdom » England August 15th 2014

We have made the most of our last couple of days in England with a number of unplanned bonus activities. We spent our last morning in the Lakes district exploring the evocative Castlerigg Stone Circle, a Bronze Age circle of about 40 stones, set on a flat grassy area surrounded by gorgeous peaks. There were huge drifts of Turneresque cloud over the fells and it was not difficult to imagine the sense of awe this place may have engendered for ancient people. Archeologists believe it marks a stone-axe trading area from around 2500 BCE and may have been the scene of some kind of ritual - some points have astronomical significance. From one point of view it is just a bunch of stones but there is something amazing about being somewhere that was of human significance ... read more
Richard III in his castle
Cloud over Buttermere, Lake District




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