Sometimes you can spend ages psyching yourself up to do something. Then just as you're about to bite the bullet, Fate shows up, says "Scratch that, i've got a better idea" and you find yourself on a completely different path. I had big plans, a grand Slavic loop that would take me through southern Poland, Slovakia, Romania, Hungary, and back to Prague in time for New Year - I'd decided to ignore the minimal daylight and even more minimal temperatures and make the most of my freedom. First stop Wroclaw (pronounced Rock-slav), 70% destroyed during WWII and "one of Poland's most attractive cities", then on to Krakow, 4.5h southeast, with the horror of Auschwitz and amazing underground salt mines... I'm on the train to Krakow now (making this a loco-log? - sorry, bad pun), the only
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