Lonely Planet said that the mirador at the top of the Jose Marti monument in Plaza de la Revolution opened at 0930 but we headed out about 0800 and walked to ensure we were the first ones up the tower. The walk was about 2km but it wasn’t too hot and we made short work of it arriving there in plenty of time to take photographs and see a wreath laying by a delegation of African politicians, complete with all the pomp and ceremony deserving of such an occasion. I was surprised at how close we were allowed to be to the event, I was able to snap plenty of photos and at one point one of the guards said “Boca Juniors” in reference to my shirt. We found that the ticket office opened at 0900 ... read more

I woke at 0500 and started coughing - a cold had been brewing for a few days, the result I suspect of frequent rainfall and 30 degree plus temperatures. I managed a few patches of sleep until breakfast at 0800. Anneris cooked us a up an omelette with a pancake and fruit along with grapefruit juice and some great coffee. We only had one full day in Santa Clara so we headed out early to make the most of it. Parque Vidal is the centre of town but it lacked the charm of Trinidad’s two main squares but as it was Saturday there were alot of people walking around creating some atmosphere. We were approached by a guy on the street claiming to be the quality controller at the local cigar factory. His timing was not ... read more

Jo had a lousy night suffering from the heat and the bloke next door was snoring. I woke just before breakfast at 0800. Elizabet phoned ahead to Santa Clara for us to book with the person from Nicholas’ list for two nights and also showed us where we could buy a bag for our assorted market junk. We were nearing the end of our travels so carrying an extra bag was far less of a hassle. The bag cost CUC 11 and easily carried my humidor and cigars, our various trinkets and heavy clothes that the weather dictated were no longer required. It was already 1030 and we just had time for a 5 peso pizza (NZ0.20) each before we boarded the 1100 hop-on hop-off bus to Playa Ancon Beach 12km south of Trinidad on the ... read more

The bus somehow managed to get through the sea of touts and pulled into Trinidad at 0630. My own efforts to get through were not as successful despite a highly athletic Campo style goosestep/sidestep combo with backpack attached. All applicants for the job of casa supplier were unsuccessful as we had an address supplied by Nicholas in Havana for Marina and we were keen to get back on his “mates list” for accommodation. Jo was in charge of navigation on this occasion so we headed off 90 degrees in the wrong direction, walking confidently so as to shake off the few persistent touts. Fortunately for us one of them saw through the facade and pointed us in the right direction. Marina answered her door and explained that she was full but her friend down the road ... read more

Paco’s dad took us to the station to meet the 0900 Viazul bus to Bayamo. Jo and I managed to pass the two hours thanks to NOFX on the iPod. It seems that the Cuban bus authorities think that their patrons enjoy CubaPop music at extreme volumes for the duration of the trip in addition to sub zero air conditioning. With an earphone each and earplugs in the other ear we got through the trip - just. We met Gino and Isabella - a Belgian couple - as we disembarked and they were in Bayamo for the same reason as us - to visit Commandancia La Plata, Fidel’s jungle hideout in the Sierra Maestra during the revolution. We went our separate ways and agreed to meet in the Plaza de Revolution in Bayamo at 1230. The ... read more