martes, 20 de abril For the most part of today we were in a bus. The downside of travelling is that sometimes you actually have to travel. The main difference to today´s journey, apart from the fact that the bus is about 80% full of Israelis (who were given ham sandwiches for lunch), was a cheeky trip through customs. For some reason the idea of customs strikes fear through the very soul (in Hayley´s case) or empty shell (in mine) of the traveller. Maybe it´s because literally all of the guidebooks suggest exercising caution. You watch Freddie Krueger, we turn the lights out and read the Lonely Planet directory by torchlight. Chile is the first new country of our trip (although Hayley spent ten minutes in Santiago bus station once) and immediately we knew we would ... read more

domingo, 11 de abril Our last day in Buenos Aires before heading South to Puerto Madryn. We´ve opted for a night bus in semi-cama seats (half-beds) to save on hostel costs. So far we´ve haemorrhaged money and are looking for savings already! I sneezed once and a 2 peso note came out. Sunday is market day in San Telmo. It´s the last of its kind in Buenos Aires and dates back to the turn of the century. The Plaza Dorrego, just a block from us and usually home to the outdoor parts of surrounding restaurants, is the large square setting for tens of stalls. Nothing here is younger than even our parents, save for the hastily made necklaces and coathanger sculptures done this morning whilst we slept. There is more brass here than the Symphony Orchestra ... read more

jueves, 8 de abril Hola! We speak Spanish now. Didn´t take long did it? We arrived in scorching Buenos Aires early Thursday morning (the 8th) after a 12 hour flight from Madrid. We had passed through Heathrow airport disappointed that nobody tried to X-ray us naked, we had both kind of hoped that someone would have seen our bits on youtube by the time we had landed and offered to buy us a drink as quasi-celebrities. We almost could have stayed at the airport there were probably more cultures and languages floating about than we will ever see in our six months away. There wasn´t really anywhere to sleep though. We got onto our plane instantly to be devastated: Sh*t! No TV! Sh*t! A dog sat two rows in front, already yelping at the thought of ... read more