Rosencrantz: "We're on a boat." Guildenstern: "I know." Rosencrantz: "Do you think Death could possibly be a boat?" Guildenstern: "No, no, no. Death is not. Death isn't. Take my meaning? Death is the ultimate negative. Not being. You can't not be on a boat." Rosencrantz: "I've frequently not been on boats." Guildenstern: "No, no. What you've been is not on boats." Rosencrantz: "I wish I was dead. I could jump over the side. That'll put a spoke in their wheel!" Guildenstern: "Unless they're counting on it." Rosencrantz: "I shall remain on board. That'll put a spoke in their wheel!" Tom Stoppard - Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead Human Cargo With Iquitos behind, the Cabo Pantoja cruises up the river into the night. I stand at the front of the top deck and lean over the railing ... read more

Psychotropics in the Tropics One of the guides, Luis, Peter, and I get into one of the longer canoes - this one equipped with a small motor. We cruise up the narrow river away from the Amazon. Half an hour later, we tether to a small wooden dock and climb out. In front of us on the bank of the river is another small village. This one has a large clearing in the center - a sort of grassy village square where some children are kicking a soccer ball back and forth. Extending from either side of the clearing along the bank of the river are two sidewalks. We walk down the one to the left. Halfway down the shady path, we stop at a small house with a spacious porch. A man in his ... read more

With my chin in my right hand, and my elbow on the armrest, I lean out over the aisle and stare down the fuselage of the Airbus A318 - bored witless. I look over to my left at Luis. He is gazing blankly at the back of the seat in front of him and pinching at his lower lip with his thumb and forefinger. He looks at me with an expression of mild concern. "Will they have ceviche in Iquitos?" I laugh. Thank God for the Spanish love of seafood. In my experience, Madrileños are usually pretty reluctant to try - much less adopt - aspects of other cultures. But if it's seafood, they will try it and generally love it. We went to a restaurant last night in Lima and ordered a big platter ... read more

Saturday After a 16-hour night bus ride from Cuzco, I arrive in the Peruvian capital of Lima at around 11am on a Saturday morning. I plan to be here for about a week. Most backpackers cringe at the thought of spending so much time in this city. The weather is dreary, the local beaches are crap, crime is rampant, and there aren't really a lot of sites to see. But I spent two weeks here several years ago, and happen to know that the city can be tremendous fun if you know the right people and where to go. Unfortunately, I'm not terribly close to any of the Limeños that I know living here at the moment. So the week will actually be spent focusing on four goals. - The cab driver drops me off at ... read more

Arequipa - A southern city with beautiful architecture and fantastic food... read more