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Published: November 12th 2012
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On the road
is where most of the shops are, and you can get pretty much anything anywhere To get to Cuc Phuong, we walked to the bus station in Ninh Binh (and were soaked through with sweat by the time we got there) and took the local bus to Nho Quan, the closest town to Cuc Phuong (apparently there is a direct bus going to the park entrance, but it is not on any signs, nor does anyone acknowledge its existence). The bus was only 25,000 d/each (7 kr or 1,5 USD), though we knew it would be the taxi from Nho Quan that would cost us. Already on the bus people were calling their relatives to tell them we were coming. They tried stopping the bus and telling us we were at the station, while a lone taxi driver offered us a ride for 300,000 d. We were pretty sure it should cost 200,000, so we convinced them to drive to the station. Xe om (motorcycle taxis) offered to take us for 100,000 each, but with our big back packs and an extra smaller one each, it seemed a doubtful choice. The first (and only) taxi driver agreed to take us for 200,000, and we were on our way. Except halfway there, he stopped. He spoke no
Happy travelers
Sadie and Øyvind on the local bus English, and even though we tried, (through drawing and speaking our basic vietnamese, as well as pointing fiercely at the phrasebook) he made it clear that if he was to take us to the park entrance, it would cost us 300,000. We gave in but were feeling pretty low, not because of the price, but because of the scam and mistrust and general lack of niceness it brings along.
We booked into one of the bungalows around the lake (another 2km hike up), killed a gigantic spider and finally understood why we had brought the mosquito net.
We visited the primate rescue center and the turtle rescue center and had the loveliest guide we could ask for. Both centers were well-run and we were happy to finally be able to give back to the community, and not just to the supertouristy conglomerates. Funnily enough, the primate center is run by a german scientist, and there are several young german volunteering in the middle of the Vietnamese jungle.
After that we had the world's best cofee from the world's sweetest, loveliest girl. After that enchanting afternoon, our faith in humanity was restored 😊
After the unexpected romanticism
Did you hear...?
The comute to work is not the same in Vietnam as it is back home of sleeping under a mosquito net, and after eating breakfast while we heard somebody's lunch get their necks twisted, we took a bike ride up to the park center, which is about 20 km from the entrance. This time we also discovered that inclines are not a forte here either, as every hill was signed at 10 %, from the slight hills to the climbs too tough for me (Sadie) to stay on the bike. Dripping of sweat and exhausted, we sat down to some of the most delicious food we've had in Vietnam. Simple, but wonderful flavours. There was a lovely breeze, but as entering the jungle entailed immediately getting eaten alive by bugs, we decided to hop over the "5 km" walk to the "big tree" and cycle back down instead. After some more delicious coffee from the most lovely girl, in, it's official, the universe, we hiked up to a lookout point (the walk a steep, buggy, 300m climb). And when we climbed up a rusty tower, it was all worth it!
A dinner in our bellies, we decided our next destination would be Phong-Nha Ke Bang National Park. We arranged for a taxi back to
on the bus
There is something very nice about leaving any town and getting towards the country side Nho Quan (which indeed did cost 300,000d), and retired to a guest house room close to the visitor center, where we had a charming courtyard (complete with a snake up in a tree devouring a frog).
We were so glad we went to the park, it was so nice to be on our own, and everyone there was lovely. And we got some exercise thrown in!
Animals in the room: one huge spider, one geico, one frog, three cocroaches, and countless mosquitoes
Sadie's mosquito bite count: over 20
Øyvind's mosquito bite count: none that I can see...
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