Advertisement
Published: September 12th 2011
Thrilled to be back from the 10-11th Century ....a heavy dose of detailed carvings, mega-structures, mythology and rich history...
Travelled 250 from Banglore (South of India) to remote locations of Belur, Halebeedu, Hulikere and Basavagundi.....Once rich Capitals with golden pillars and golden palaces ....now , just well known for their Hoysala temples/ruins.
Part I: Temple of Chennakeshava
Some of the most magnificent specimens of South Indian temples are those attributed to the Hoysala dynasty of Karnataka. How this powerful dynasty got its name is a tale that must have been narrated time and again. Hoy Sa'la meaning "strike Sa'la!", were the words spoken to Sa'la ( legendary head of this dynasty) to kill the tiger. Since Sa'la tackled the tiger single-handed and killed him, this heroic deed took the form of the dynasty's name. The rulers of this clan were called the Yadava Kings who ruled with tremendous power after having defeated the Chalukyas and rose above all to become the paramount rulers even over the Cholas and Pandyas in South India. The Hoysala dynasty originally had their capital at Halebid (about 17 kms from Belur) where they ruled for over 150 years. However, it was attacked by invaders
a couple of times during the 14th century, reducing the once grand capital to poverty and ruins. Thus, the Hoysalas shifted their seat of power to Belur which stood proud as a powerful empire back then.
At a distance of about 220 Kms from the metro city of Bangalore, BELUR is considered as the Banaras of South and is thus also known as Dakshina Varanasi. A small town located on the banks of River Yagachi , it is but very popular for its marvellous temples which are among the best if one wants to study temple architecture. They are an architectural delight and one can spend days drinking in their beauty. The Hoysalas were brilliant builders who developed a new style of temple architecture. They conceived their shrines as star-shaped structures and not the usual cubical form. In this concept of the stellate, the main temple at Belur, is a show-stealer. Among the Hoysala rulers, King Vishnuvardhana who was also responsible for defeating the Chalukyas, built this impeccable masterpiece of a temple. The serenity of Belur is attributed to the celebrated temple of Channakeshava. According to inscriptions, the temple was built to commemorate his conversion from Jainism to Vaishnavism.
He signalised his conversion by the erection of many temples of unsurpassed excellence, of which the temple of Chennakesava was no doubt the best. There is also another version where the temple is said to have been built to celebrate King Vishnuvardhana's victory of Talkad over the Cholas.
Before learning about the major assets of the Chennakeshava Temple, it is essential to understand that the temples built in those days were not just limited to the cause of worship and religion. Infact a temple was built for five reasons, where apart from religion, it provided scope for a justice court, a treasure house, an institution to impart ethical education and fostered our various arts including music and dance.
The first thing that catches one's eye, is the beautiful ornamental Gopuram of the Chennakeshava Temple. It stands tall , giving a feeling that one is entering a grandiose royal court. As one steps onto the temple's sacrosanct platform, in a corner of the vast courtyard are tossed a golden horse and a temple chariot. The winged figure of Garuda, Lord Vishnu's carrier, stands at the entrance, facing the temple, its palms touching in homage. The main structure of the
temple, which is a stellar, stands as a homogenous architectural unit on a raised platform. The entire structure with its intricate Filigree gleams like metal. Chloritic Schist, a light greenish soapstone, hard as granite was used to create the complex. Every possible surface is covered with the most perfectly proportioned figures. The main temple is surrounded by other small ones such as those of Soumyanayaki and Ranganayaki, beloved of Sri Chennakesava.
There are also temples built for Narasimha, Anjaneya, etc. King Vishnuvardhana's senior queen Shantaladevi, a dance legend herself, built a temple in similar fashion to the main temple, which was called the Channigaraya temple.
The surface of the temple exterior is intricately filled with horizontal friezes, sculptured in succession from the bottom. Stories from the Puranas, Upanishads and other mythological stories have been executed in the most authentic way. The
Ramayana and the Mahabharata also have been included. There are also friezes of a variety of creepers and cornices with bead work . The lowest frieze is that of a series of 650 charging elephants around the walls and are all different from each other. They symbolise stability and tremendous strength and are considered the weight
lifters of the temple. Next come the lions which symbolise courage while the horses above them are for speed. The creepers signify beauty. Thus, every piece of work is significant, having a meaning.
As you look up at the corners of the temple exterior, you are left spellbound at the ultimate sculptural beauties, that adorn it. The bracketed figurines called the Madanikas or celestial nymphs are no doubt the highlight of the temple's magnificant architecture. Exclusive to Belur, the Madanikas lift the glory of the temple to unprecedented heights of excellence. And there are as many as 42 of them, of which 38 adorn the exterior walls while the remaining four are placed inside on the ornate ceiling. The Madanikas are said to be inspired by the beautiful Queen Shantaladevi, epitomising the ideal feminine form. The variety of poses and subjects that these represent is something to marvel about. Each depicts a mood and all are amorous. 'The Beauty with a mirror-Darpana Sundari', 'The lady with the parrot', 'The Huntress', 'The Bhasma-Mohini' are some of the favourites. All these and more are carved with utmost care and clinical precision, making them come alive.
On entering the interiors of
the Chennakeshava temple, at the entrance one cannot help pausing a moment to look at the trademark of the temples of Hoysa'la dynasty, the royal emblem. The story of "Sa'la" killing the tiger as though comes to life. He has been immortalised along with the tiger and thus this heroic act has became the royal emblem of the Hoysala dynasty. This emblem is found at the entrance of almost all their temples.
If the temple's exteriors are out of this world, it is almost impossible to describe the greatness of its interiors which is even superior architecturally speaking. The presiding deity is the manifestation of Lord Krishna or Keshava and is called 'Vijaya Narayana' here. The beautiful image stands six feet tall and was installed in the sanctum of the main temple in 1117 A.D. There are about 48 pillars of various sizes, shapes and designs , bearing testimony to remarkable artistry. Inside, even in the darkness, you can see the shining pillars, each unique in its own splendour. The most popular being, the Narasimha pillar in the Navaranga, unique in its filigreed splendour. It is said to have revolved on its ball bearings once. A small space has
been left on it to be sculpted by anyone who has the talent. It remains untouched. The Mohini Pillar also deserves a special mention which has been carved with great care and proportion. Here again, the spotlight is forever focussed on the four Madanikas on the ceiling.
If one is willing to spend enough time at Belur, there is no end to the pleasures one experiences in gazing at the different mythological tales that these time-tested monuments have to narrate. The temples create magic during the early hours of the day, just before sunrise, when a tranquil atmosphere surrounds them. This is the best time to enjoy and understand the poetry of these stone images. The transition from dawn to after sunrise is also something not to be missed. Suddenly the temple brightens up bringing with it the liveliness of the local devotees, who begin to throng in, as part of a daily ritual. A total different mood sets in, that of colour and light.
....................................
Part II: Hoysaleshwara Temple:
The Rashtrakutas built the big tank in front of the temple in the 9th Century. The town was named as Dwarasamudra (called as HALEBEEDU today). If one stands
on the platform of the temple and sees around he will see the hills opposite and two big bulls facing the temple and Ganesha figure on the south. These attract the attention of even the children. The big temple consists of two temples, built inside. There are four doors in total. The minute sculptural works in respect of Dwarapalakas, i.e., crow and ornament can never be seen anywhere else. The bracket figures, which were fixed to the roofing, have been stolen and only one remains as a token. The figures carved in this temple are bigger than those of Belur, and some of the figures are carved on both sides of the stone.
Ketumalla, the chief of staff of Vishnuvardhana, built this temple during 1121 A.D. Even then it is learnt that it took 105 years to complete. Even now there is some incomplete work. Both the temples are joined by one veranda from outer views. It looks like star just as Belur. The God on the northern side temple is called as Shanthaleshwara and that on southern side is called as Hoysaleshwara. These Shaiva Gods are in the shape of Linga, indication to small bull in front of these
Gods big bull are kept in stone mantaps outside in front of each temple. They have been fully decorated by stone ornaments around their neck. Behind the bull in a mantap we can see big sized Suryanarayana standing with seven horses and Arundadeva. It is said that Ketumalla built these temples joined into one.
As per the opinion of Ferguson, the archaeological expert, it was told that this is the reflection of the Indian Vastushilpa. The innumerable number of figures carved on the outer wall can nowhere be seen in ancient sculpture. If we go around the temple in three stage we can see the Durbar of Lord Shiva, the childhood plays of Bala Krishna.
.........................................................
Walking around the Chennakeshava Temple in nearby Belur next morning, I was amazed at the attention to finer details that went into making every statue carved on the walls and pillars. I found here a statue of a danseuse whose bangles were chipped to rotate freely around her hands, a carving of Nandi barely larger than a chickpea and a pillar decorated with miniatures of gods and goddesses probably numbering more than a hundred. The base of the outer wall was made of
layers of friezes. One of these layers contained 650 elephants – every one of them carved differently from other.
Well known among all the richly decorated sculptures in Belur are madanikas, bracket figures installed below the awnings. The sensuous damsels are depicted in various moods and activities, like Shukabhashini talking to a parrot and Darapana Sundari adoring her own figure looking into a mirror.
With carvings adorning every inch of the walls, pillars and roofing of the temple, it is no wonder that the sculptors took 103 years to complete its construction. But moving ahead into nearby Halebeedu, I was in for even more surprise. The twin temples of here are nearly twice as large as the one in Belur. It took nearly double the time to construct and hosts carvings that are no less intricate than the treasured beauties of Belur in their perfection.
Still standing proudly inside a coffee plantations around, are three small beautiful temples that are said to date back to tenth century. The temples do not compare against the grandiose structures built in the later days, but it is here that the story began in a small way. As I departed from these tiny
villages on my way back Bangalore, I wondered for once how every creation of greatness has a very humble beginning.
.......................................
Just for your information, we stayed at the Hoysala Village Resort. Great cottages ! they also arranged for our airport pick-drop from Bengaluru + local travel to all temples + guide.
A must go - if you are a archeology freak like me 😊
Advertisement
Tot: 0.084s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 13; qc: 26; dbt: 0.0557s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Dancing Dave
David Hooper
EXQUISITE
What fantastic carvings...love them...glad I have discovered your blogs