Indonesia, Malaysia & Thailand

---

INDONESIA & MALAYSIA
The two countries are quite similar, certainly in terms of religion (dominantly Muslim) and to a great extent culture. Malaysia seems more modern. Indonesians are a little more tied to the sea. The most salient difference between them from a visitor's perspective is that Indonesians (at least those I met in Bali, Lombok and Flores, the only islands I visited) have that almost undefinable island calm, that “aloha” (as the Hawaiians call it) that says “don't worry be happy”. And so I like them a bit better, but still, that's not to label Malaysians unfriendly. They are warm and hospitable, especially after going through Thailand. It is tough to compare them, since I spent much of my time in Kuala Lumpur and in Borneo (which has its own character), while I visited many rural areas in Indonesia.

A great example of a much more apt contrast is Bali vs. the touristed areas of southern Thailand. Bali arguable gets much more concentrated tourism than does Thailand's beach towns. But unlike Thailand, where the people seem to be fundamentally changed by contact with tourists (and not for the better either), the Balinese, even in places where you would swear you're in a province of Australia for all the (drunk) Aussies about, the locals are remarkably chill, warm, and hospitable. Granted, a big part of this is their desire to win your patronage. But in Thailand, you are confronted far too often with the attitude that you OWE them your business, that they would be much happier if you would just leave your dollars with them and go home.

Balinese are less likely, in addition, to be so engrossed in the TV to bother talking to a tourist as Thais are. They are also not allergic to walking as Thais seem to be. I like Indonesians on the whole, but I can't say the same about Thais (only that I really like SOME Thais). This is why I would choose to visit Indonesia (or Malaysia) over Thailand any day. Costs, other than getting around - very cheap in Thailand - are very similar. While possibly not as striking as the beaches in the karst-dominated parts of southern Thailand, Indonesian beaches are just as nice as in Thailand. Diving, long a point of pride for Thais, is at least as good in Indonesia (no kidding). Indonesia has just as much opportunity for adventure tourism, along with much better surfing. There are also active volcanoes to climb! So go to Indonesia and/or Malaysia instead of Thailand, and if you are into nature make a point of visiting Borneo.

THAILAND
What is there to say about Thailand? There are a few very cool national parks (like Khao Sok in south-central), and Bangkok is a vibrant cosmopolitan city with a lot going on (but so is Kuala Lumpur). However, many of the people you meet will be glued to the TV or to the seats of their motorbikes and cars, and treat you as just another westerner who they barely tolerate only because you have some money. The place is ruined for cultural tourism, for the most part, and is rapidly becoming just another package tourist destination. But if you are into just hanging out at a beach, you could go to Florida or Hawaii, or to the Caribbean, all much cheaper to get to for North Americans.

Thais are not curious about how you really live, what your home is like, etc. They already know - TV has showed them all they need to know about you. They not only have that seemingly ubiquitous want of the material trappings of the western lifestyle, but many seem to feel entitled to them. And this from a generally lazy people. All you need to do is watch a little Thai TV and you begin to understand why. We in the U.S. who feel bombarded by ads on TV have nothing to complain about, believe me. Thais get double the aired ads on their TV, and doubly inane. And again they watch morning, noon and night.

The Thai government, in concert with big hotel investors and the other deep pockets, are actively encouraging package tourism while discouraging the backpacker-style that the country has traditionally had a reputation for. They do not seem to care that the backpackers of the past are the very same parents and time-short tourists that they are making their pitches to. And these people may, like me, be turned off by the overdone package tourism of a different generation. The only difference now, is that they want a little more comfort. They're still looking for a degree of unpredictability, genuine cultural experiences, adventure, and even occasionally roughing it.

I cannot understand Thailand's enduring popularity as a tourist destination - except due to the power of a reputation (myth) to perpetuate itself beyond the time when it was valid. I think if people realized how much hype they are getting before they booked their flights, that they might peer a little deeper. They might realize that many countries have pretty beaches and warm water, and with friendlier, more welcoming people. There are actually a plethora of valid alternatives to Thailand, many in the same region of the world.

---