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Published: February 20th 2010
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Having spent the best part of 48 hours travelling approximately 850 km: by foot, moped, ferry, ‘taxi-truck’, train and bus, I finally arrived in the Ko Chang Archipelago. I'm now on a small island in the Eastern Gulf of Thailand, and it is here, on Ko Mak that I have chosen to set down my backpack for a short holiday within a holiday. Sickening, isn't it?
The journey was not easy, and it was certainly long, but the whole experience was made easier to bear by some of the fantastic people I met along the way. I’ve been shown kindness after kindness, and although I’m tired I would go so far as to say, I’m feeling euphoric. Right now it seems that the World is brimming with good and generous people.
I have made a point of smiling at, just about, everyone. Those of you who know me well will know that thanks to certain ‘dental arrangements’, I have often tried to hide my smile. Well…not anymore! When you smile, people smile back. Stern and unapproachable faces melt into warmth and openness. If the person is Thai, I may compound the smile with the greeting of ‘Sa -wa -
dee - ka’ (Hello) with palms together. People return it, and I love it!
I spent 8 hours waiting for a train at Chumpon station, and this simple, opening gesture led me to meet and talk to several lovely people. The station master for one. Although he did spend a long time asking after my age, marital status and future childbearing plans, he wasn't threatening or lecherous, and he taught me some more key Thai phrases. I then got talking to a fairly elderly Thai woman who also had a long wait at the station. She showed me her book, which I gathered from the cover and the pictures inside, was about a monastery. I showed her the photos on my camera. Neither one of us understood a single word the other said (except place names: Chumpon, Bangkok, England, Paris) but we agreed whole-heartedly about everything. She kindly gave me one of her sandwiches and when my train arrived I used two of my newly learnt Thai phrases : Cholk-dee-ka (Goodbye) and Korp-kun-ka (Thankyou).
On the night ferry from Ko-Tao to Chumpon, I met some very nice Welsh and English backpackers too. The night ferry was, actually, not
so bad. It transports cars, cargo and passengers and has some very basic sleeping areas comprising bunk beds and mattresses on the floor. You choose an available spot and hope to sleep away the 6 hour journey. I had no concerns about my safety or security apart from the fact that the ferry was transporting 3 petrol tankers. Not worrying in its own right, right? However, the ferry workers were unapologetically smoking around them, with no due concern about where their, still lit, cigarette butts went after disposal. Thankfully, myself and co-passengers were not awoken in the middle of the night engulfed in flames. So, my concerns proved to be unfounded. But if you ever hear of a passenger ferry exploding in the Gulf of Thailand - it’s not terrorism - you know who to blame.
Before I continue, I must warn you that what follows is evidence that I am a cliché of a Westerner visiting the East. So, if you are easily irritated by that kind of thing, please, read no further.
So far I have been very aware of the spiritual leanings of the Thai culture and people. There are temples and monasteries everywhere -
The train conductor.
Train from Chumpon to Bangkok. 452 km. 7 hours. possibly 1000s in Bangkok alone, and every island - even the sparsely populated ones, has atleast one or several. These are places of worship for local devotees and monks live out their pious lives in them. The sight of a monk in those distinctive orange robes is fairly commonplace, not just in temple compounds, but on buses, trains and streets everywhere here. Early in the morning, they make their rounds to receive alms from the civilian population. In return, the monks bless the donors. Whilst I’m not sure of all the Buddhist beliefs, I feel certain that the concept of karma is a very good one. If it is an incentive for people to live good and conscientious lives, then it can’t be a bad thing. There is a Thai proverb that I have recently learnt which sums up, not just Buddhism, but the basic principle which is at the heart of all religious and humanistic endeavour. It goes, "Do good and receive good; do bad and receive bad." Doesn’t get much simpler than that.
So, with that in mind, coupled with an acute sense of my own idleness, I intend to search out some ‘good’ initiatives along my
route. In this way I hope to give something (apart from the contents of my wallet) back to this region and people, which has already given me so much.
For now though, I've found myself one of those quintessential Thai beach shacks, right on the shore. Remote and rustic, it most certainly is. Giving up comforts like air-conditioning means that instead of the drone of the cooling system, I can hear the water caressing the stilts of my beach bungalow. It also means that the fan in my room simply moves the hot, humid air around. You can't have everything, I suppose!
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Nancy
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I admire your pluck!
Hi Claire, I am enjoying your blog posts amd the photos. I really admire that you have taken off on your own, as I also admire Clemence. I have traveled alone many times, though the longest trip was only 2 1/2 months. The difference is that I visited Europe. where it is fairly easy to communicate. The completely different language, both spoken and written, of Asia is something that would put me so far out of my comfort zone if I was on my own. Congrats to you for doing it. I'll continue to travel vicariously through your blog. Safe travels, my dear!