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Published: December 16th 2009
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Sujit and Sheelah Gupta
The present owners of Wayside 6/12/09
Flying to Delhi gave us an indication of the change in mentality. Cathay Pacific staff had problems asking passengers to stay seated when taxiing. The clean constantly washed surfaces had given way to a peeling, dirty jetway. The best travel agent had her heart in her mouth as she looked out for a placard with her name at Delhi airport. Yup, there it was, I couldn’t help laughing as we followed the driver through the airport chaos to our car. This was a veiled entry into India. Shrouded by night and poor city lighting we dodged an elephant, raced around other cars and stopped in a turn lane to hand money to another driver. A final swerve across oncoming traffic turned us into a little lane where the gem of a hotel called Cottage Yes Please was lit up like a Christmas tree welcoming us to everything in triplicate!
The concierge couldn’t be more welcoming and obliging. I am bringing an extra blanket, Sir. I am bringing you some water, Sir. You will be needing some breakfast? You call me. This is the number, 222. My name, see here on my wrist bracelet, Ghopal and my wife, Rekah. Tattoo
also, G and R. My wife very beautiful. Sleep well, Sir, Madam. Remember call me for breakfast. Sleep well, Namaste. And bowing and smiling he left the room.
The next morning the realisation dawned that in the relief at arriving safe and sound G had given the kindly baggage wallah an US $50 note instead of 50Rs! Mmm, what would Ghopal be sporting today? New glasses, clothes, a new wife maybe! Welcome to India and to being careful with strange notes. Surprisingly, it felt good to think that the money might be enough for several months of good living for two people who would probably remember us for a long time!
The rather odd travel arrangement to fly back to Kolkata had actually meant that we could meet the Guptas who had kindly said we could stay in their home of Wayside in Kurseong, the former family home of my grandfather and grandmother acquired through a bankruptcy settlement of a client back in the early 1930s. The charming, urbane Guptas entrusted us with keys for the house, keys to linen cupboards and exhortations that it might not be very comfortable as they have not visited for several years due to
ill health. They said it would be better to be picked up after the overnight train to New Jalpaiguri due to the frequency of it being late and the missing of the connection to the famous toy train.
An emotional Mrs Gupta told us sad stories from the hill towns of old colonials and their abandoned offspring. We must be sure to speak to their friend in Kalimpong and visit the Fiddlers on the Roof, a music school set up for poor children some of whom have gained scholarships to music schools in Europe. We were told where best to stay and to arrange with their caretaker a visit to sunrise at Tiger Hill, spectacular scenery, glistening peaks of Kachinanga and other commanding Himalayan peaks. Obligatory coffee and whisky will make the 3am start bearable!
We talked about help for poor children in the village and the support the caretaker’s wife gives organisations in the area. More to come on this! A link with Kurseong, a link with part of my heritage an opportunity to assist without being seen as Lady Bountiful which no doubt my grandmother would have been.
Leaving the Guptas to their car and driver, we set off on the next leg. Be prepared for Kolkata.
One stage at a time. Will load photos when we come back from Darjeeling!
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