Tharu to Delhi charging Rhino and the end

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This is probably the final blog of this trip, unless there is something extraordinary to report like a tiger being spotted!

Well the Ox Cart took us out of the forest into open grazing with cows, bullocks, goats, sheep being herded by the villagers. Then to the entrance to the Lodge. Rather different designed in a local Long House style the lodge was surrounded by extensive grounds and a swimming pool.

The usual briefing by the Manager and we were shown to our rooms, nice and spacious but old fashioned small and rather scruffy shower loo etc. It is an older lodge and showed its age.

We then went for a walk around the grounds before showering and going to the central area to have a drink and watch local Tharu dancers. All rather nice there was one other couple there also refugees from Tiger Tops. The Lodge had actually been empty had we not all been diverted there. The village youth also came and sat at the back. The dancers were not bad and we all got up and joined in well all except a certain lady who was as usual not having any of it!!

After the dancing was over we went onto the lawn for dinner and were given free wine and beer all evening so it got quite merry!

The next morning Solly opted to go Bird Watching around the garden, I opted to stay in bed!

After breakfast we went round the farm owned by the Lodge which was quite interesting and then to the school they run for the underpriviledged in the village which was very impressive.

One thing we found in Nepal was that there were thousands of schoolchildren everywhere walking to and from school. No working age men they are all in the Gulf working as our security guards or my tea boy. The numbers of children though does raise questions for the future.

Back to the lodge for lunch and a very good one it was too, by the swimming pool it was a decent curry washed down by some Gurkha Beer.

Solly had found a hammock before lunch and returned after as well.

At the time three more couples turned up, again all refugees from TT. One of them was the tour operator for the couple who had been with us the night before, which is an auction site.

At 3 we got back onto an ox cart and went through more grazing country past some fishermen and people ploughing the paddy fields with oxen.

Into the forest and about 45 minutes we got to the river and into a canoe for a sunset safari. Beautiful sunset but not much game. When we got back to the arrival spot there was a picnic going on with Children who had never seen white men before! Absolutely fascinated by us!

Back to the lodge and we opted not to see the dancing again, shame rather because the girls were rather pretty!! Usual story of Gin and Tonic and as we had requested for once a Nepali Dinner which was very nice. in fact the food at Tharu was possibly the best in Nepal, with a Buffalo Lasagne the night before.

We said our farewells to the Usshers as we had a very early start and they were going back to Dubai.

Up at 5:30 with Breakfast at 6 and off we set again in a Tata 4x4 for a 81/2 hour drive to the Karnali lodge in Bardia. Again empty if bouncy roads, at one point we went through some hills and the road was only just passable following landslides. They had had a very severe monsoon season with a lot of flooding and the damage from landslides on this stretch was quite severe.

Uneventful we had our lunch beside the road much to the interest of an old lady herding her goats who looked at me most suspiciously as I ate my lunch standing under a tree!

Arrived at Karnali too late for an Elephant ride so we went on foot. Saw several monkeys and deer and then a tiger roared, we saw plenty of evidence of them this was the nearest we got and maybe as we were on foot with no protection it was close enough!

Back at the lodge usual routine. There were three other groups staying but all rather kept to themselves unlike the other lodges we stayed at. Oh and guess what the dinner was Pork Escalope and Lemon Tart!!!

Up at 5:30 again and onto an Ele, just the two of us on each Ele with 3 in all going together. Saw usual monkeys, deer etc and then saw a Rhino just after we had crossed a quite deep river. The Eles are amazing going straight through the deepest grass which grows up to 20ft high and breaking off branches and on two occasions this time wading through quite deep fast flowing rivers. Anyhow we were lucky with the Rhino as we got very close to him as he drank his water.

Back to the camp after a 3 hour safari and Breakfast outside cooked on a wooden barbeque. After Breakfast packed again and were driven in a rickety old Jeep to the tented camp.

This was the most beautiful of our camps situated on a high bank overlooking the Karnali River. The tents were similar to the ones in Chitwan. We were the only people there though one of the groups from the other lodge transferred later in the day.

The main building had been washed away in the monsoon and so sadly they had rebuilt it back from the river.

In general they are only just getting tourism going again in Bhadia as it became dangerous getting there during the Maoist struggle, so although the lodges were not busy they were building new blocks and were seeing a good increase in the numbers, a fact generally found throughout Nepal.

After settling into our rooms we were served a nice Nepali curry which we washed down with Gurkha Beer sitting on a bench overlooking the river.

A short siesta then back onto the Eles, this time we had one each so sat facing forward with our legs either side of the Mahoot, both of us ending up with damp trousers from their sweat! Hunting on two elephants gives you much more chance and with a guide standing on the back of the Elephant one did feel rather regal. We saw some very new Tiger prints, both of the known Tigers in the area had recently had Cubs so we were warned that it would be unlikely we would see any.

We then saw a Rhino, well my guide did, and so we both set off in pursuit. Firstly finding him hiding in a bush we went round to the other side while Sol's stood still. We flushed him out but he went charging off in the other direction.

Off we set though in pursuit and a few minutes later came across two more hiding in the long grass. Solly's Ele was on one side and hadn't seen the Rhino so when we got close he broke out and charged straight at Solly! Her face was a picture and he Ele backed up. The Rhino stopped and then charged back at us before deciding to go left and escaping.

Not to be put off we went on hot pursuit and found another or the same Rhino in the Forest. Sol missed this one but we chased him for a while through the forest before ending up cornering him and having a face off for a few minutes. Then we left them alone and returned without much more excitement to the Camp. Showered G+T and dinner, Chicken and pancakes this time washed down by a nice bottle of Aussie Cabernet.

Up at 6:00 the next morning and back onto the Eles only one between us this time and again saw plenty of Tiger prints but no Tiger. There was a sudden commotion though and we went off to see what it was, we couldn't see anything but evidently it was a wild Elephant.

Back to the camp fro breakfast and then packing and off on a rafting trip for 3 hours. On a proper White water raft we hoped to see some very rare River Dolphin that are nearly extinct and were lucky one played arounf in front of us for a good 10 minutes. The rest of the trip was quite fun but no real rapids or anything to make it more exciting!

On our arrival again there was a large school picnic on the banks.

Two people were cooking a whole goat holding it over a camp fire. As we got off the raft hundreds of Children descended and in seeming awe followed us and the raft up the bank. Then the boat was collapsed which gave the children a fun few minutes treating it like a bouncing castle. Eventually we extrictated ourselves and went with the boat in the back of the Jeep to the main lodge.

Lunch again of Nepali curry with Gurkha before getting back in the jeep to transfer to Nepalgunj Airport which tool about 2 hours. We stopped on the way and saw some Crocodile.

Arrived at the airport and checked in without much problem and then through security into the departure area. Solly suddenly realised there was no loo and we had been locked in! Anyhow we sat on one of the 8 chairs in an otherwise totally bare room and after about an hour some more passengers came through and Solly was able to escape to the loo. Chaos really boarding the plane with people climbing through windows and the passengers having to unlock the door but on the tarmac and the Yeti Airlines plane which flew us back to Kathmandu safely.

Met at the airport though while trying to locate our baggage there was a power cut which made the process all the more interesting!

Back to Dwarikas and our old room, which was slightly disappointing as each of their rooms are different it would have been fun to see another.

Just in time for Happy Hour so I had a couple of Vodka Martinis and as it had got a lot colder while we had been away there was a nice log fire.

The hotel was unfortunately packed with two or three large tour groups but the dinner was okay I had the buffet and Sol Pork Escalopes!

Off to bed as we had another 5:30 start to go on a flight to Everest. Picked up at 6:00 luckily the airport was near our hotel, and checked in for the flight this time on Buddha Air. It was a few minutes late and the usual chaos with everyine crowding the entrance.

Onto the bus and found almost all the other passengers were a group from Argentina. All women and one was praying all the way to the plane.

The flight was worth it they took a lot of trouble explaining the different mountains and allowed us all into the cockpit, well it was meant to be one at a time but you know what Women are like and Argentinians at that so of course they all had to go at once. The crew did sort that out before we crashed. A little turbulence around Everest added to the amusement and then a smooth landing and return to the hotel for a quick breakfast before going on our sightseeing tour. We went to Patan and Bhaktapur two other cities next to Kathmandu. Both with well preserved central palaces and temples.

Bhaktapur the better ot the two and really not dissimilar to visiting some of the Tuscan towns last summer.

Our guide lived in an old house near the centre and showed us his room which was interesting very basic, steep stairs and low ceilings.

Had lunch in a restaurant overlooking one of the main squares, neatly next to the guide's Father's shop, so we had to do the obligatory shopping.

Back to the hotel to change and then had the first half of my Happy hour before going out to a Nepali dinner with the Tiger Mountain Guide. Perhaps the low point of the holiday really. A nice old building but very plainly decorated, sitting on the floor with several tour groups. Some dancing and Nepali food similar to what we had been eating all the way round, but found a decent Chilean Cabernet so all not lost.

Back to the hotel to finish my Happy Hour G+T and then bed, with the blissful realisation that I could lie in!!

Up for Breakfast then we got a taxi down to the main shopping area in Kathmandu, looking to buy some Kashmir sweaters, but felt the quality was not good and the price quite high. Noone in the shops we went to seemed that interested in selling either. So bought some green tea and returned to the hotel, for a sandwich and check out. Got to the airport slow check in and then through immigration. There was an annoying Korean queue barger with whom I exchanged a few words but was delighted when he had to go back because he had failed to fill in a form.

Up to the surprisingly nice lounge were I watching England being beaten by India. Jet was as usual late and then we had further security to go through including at the steps of the Aircraft which delayed us further so we got to Delhi an hour late and then had to wait another hour for our luggage.

Anyhow the Imperial were there to meet us in a Ford 4x4 which after the vehicles in Nepal seemed like pure luxury! Arrived the the Hotel which is lovely.

Quick shower and change and went downstairs to be told Solly had to change her shoes as they weren't suitable but I looked fine like the "perfect Gent".

Ate in the Indian Restaurant and had a really good curry washed down by a surprisingly cheap bottle of decent Claret!

Now lying by the pool after a large Breakfast and really that is it.

Spa this afternoon, dinner in the Spice Route this evening and probably the Italian tomorrow. May venture out for a little sightseeing tomorrow but really after two weeks of being very busy it is just lovely relaxing and enjoying a really luxurious hotel!

Back to Dubai on Thursday so I think it is Goodbye from me and goodbye from her!

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