Mud and the mountains

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Hi all! You would not believe this place. It has about 100 inhabitants, 100 water buffalo and a few pigs.... and this shack with some computers and an internet connection! I will try to post a picture of this but it might crash the whole village electricity systems if I attempt it! This village by the way is Lai Chau... yes, I decided to go all the way to Sapa as planned. And since my new nickname is 'Queen of the Mountians' (thanks Steve) I should also be able to get there in a few days! By the way Steve is 'King of the flat bits'. As you can see the cycle partnership is working out okay (for me)!

Just a little update on the last three days...
11/12/05 Son La - Tuan Giao 85k, 6 hours: Bloody hell! We left Son La in mist and rain and that did not clear for the longest time. Off course this was the first day with a real mountain pass. And my god it was a mountain pass. We got to the top of the first hill and going down the road disappeared and turned to mud. I was still thinking that was okay but forgot that that meant going up the pass in the mud as well... yes, I hate to admit it but I had to walk. The mud caked to my wheels and I had drag factor 10 on them going up hill, slipping an sliding, going sideways etc. Lots of swearing from my part. And the worst thing was that because we were more or less in the clouds there was not even any view to enjoy when trying to catch my breath back! But finally the top was reached and as expected the downhill was a true adrinalin rush... Also on the other side of the mountiain the weather was warmer, the sky was clear and the scenery the most beautiful so far. The rice paddies, the villages, the animals etc. all straight from the Vietnam tourist board pictures! Stunning, perfect etc. maybe even more beautiful because it had been such a struggle to get there! All covered in mud and exhausted with a cold shower (damm) and as much rice as I could eat.
12/12/05 Tuan Giao - Diem Bien Phu 80k 4 1/2 hours: Compared to yesterday, this was a relative easy day... First half of the day was close to flat and through a landscape of rice paddies. This was good because my gears have gone a bid funny especially the ones I need going up hill. Then at the 35k mark folled a 7k climb. I'm getting better at them and did this one without stopping. Still I was relieved to see the top. From there is was a long but easy ride into Dien Bien Phu. This was good so we got there in time to see some of the sites (because of course this was the place with a truly decisive battle took place: French v Vienamese in 1953. The French lost and this was the end of colonial rule in Indochina).
Today Diem Bien - Lai Chau 100k, 5.45 hours: This was long, stunning (yes, I know I say that a lot but it is true!), testing ride. I had been dreading this day because the guide that I have been using describes this as mostly dirt road.... luckily somebody had the brilliant idea to pave the road (all the way). I could kiss this person! Because it was paved it was fine! Couple of hills, 3k climb, a few little ones and a monster 15k one... all fine because at least they were on tarmac! The scenery before the mountains was not the most spectacular. In the mountains I say a lot of minority women in traditional clothing sitting together on the verandas of their houses weaving, preparing food or just gossiping. The only thing was that this was a realy remote area and people were very suspicious of us cycling through their village. So less saying HELLO and more staring. In the mountains and going down on the other end I was felt very small. The mountains are similar in height to the Alps but the vegetation is tropical. This makes it very beautifull and strange. No picture could capture how special these views were but I'll never forget. We followed the Da river down the mountain to this tiny town called Lai Chau. Sleeping in a fancy stillt house tonight ready for another gruwling day (with stunning landscapes) tomorrow. Now as always I can't wait to have an enormous meal involving rice and tofu (yes, still staying away from mystery meat).

I am exhaused but very happy. This has been one of the most wonderfull things I have ever done (and one of the hardest physically). Loving it!

oxox Fiona

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Comments

[sasja]

ik ben onder de indruk, hoor! Ik vind het heel knap van je! Veel succes met je verdere reis. Hugs sasja

[Charlie]

Wow
Hey Fi It sounds amazing!! keep up the updates! Things here are sailing, the 4 hour work days are brilliant :) We all missing you tons, I'll make sure everyone has a beer for u at the Xmas party!

[Leslie]

Hello from Shepherds Bush!
Hi Fiona, good to see you're doing well and still in fighting form! We're enjoying hearing about your progress here in the office - Suddenly, brochure printing doesn't look too challenging in comparison! Take care - hope you log on again soon!

[Lynn]

Hey Honey
Wowwwww talk about physical action :-) Tee hee. So good to hear form you honey and your travel diary oh "Queen of the Mountains". Well cold and rainy London is not the same without our Fiona. You should not have walked back up the mountain I would have slid down on my butt instead :-) In aid of a mud bath of course. Miss you baby take care and update us soon. Lynny xx