Ninh Binh

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Our guide for today’s tour was a bit late. It was a big group today. Like last week, we were hustled onto a small shuttle and driven a few blocks to a full sized tour bus. The driver was practically pushing me aboard with worried words about police. What else is new in this city of six million.

All aboard, we inched our way through traffic to the edge of town to pick up the autoroute south. Once across the river, we passed miles and miles of rice paddies on this vast plain. Our first stop was in Hoag Lu, the first capital of Vietnam, circa 1010. All that remains is a temple. The other buildings, including the palace, had been floated down the river to Ha Noi. This temple was restored in the 18th century and again a few months ago.
The complex is surrounded by mountains. These tall, steep karsk hills are good protection, besides being beautiful. After a frustrating wait for a stragglers, we continued down the road to our second destination, Tam Coc. There are eight nationalities on the tour. English comprehension is sometimes minimal. Add the strong English accent of the guide and it is understandable that there will be misunderstandings as to when and where to meet.

Lunch was a buffet affair, which means tasteless overcooked food. Somehow, the spring rolls were able to shine. A new variety for me, packed full of mushrooms. Next on the agenda was a bicycle tour of the area. I hadn’t been on a bike for over twenty years. A bit wobbly at first, I soon got the hang of it and was able to gently pedal along and enjoy the countryside. I guess it is true that one never forgets how to ride a bike. Maybe I will try alpine skiing again to see if the axiom holds true to that sport also.

A gentle 9 kilometre ramble along a near deserted road through the rice paddies. The land is perfectly flat. Usually the guide takes his group along the retain walls separating the fields of rice. Since it had recently rained, the soil was quite slippery so we stuck to the asphalt. Fine with me as I didn’t want to fall and sink into the mud amongst the rice shoots.

A few minutes earlier the guide had pointed out a small mound with a flower on it in the middle of a paddy. It was a burial site. Asked if the corpse had been cremated first, the guide said no. Mixed with buffalo and duck dung, I guess this makes good fertilizer. Something to think about with your next bowl of Uncle Bens.

Next up was a paddle up the river in small flat-bottomed boats. The shores are lined with rice paddies and karsks. In a few places, the water has worn a tunnel through the mountain. Kind of spooky with the ceiling just inches above my head. The ploy is that at the turn-around point, we are rushed by vendors in tiny dug-outs selling trinkets, drinks and snacks. Then then suggest you buy something for the ferryman (or woman). This is then sold back to the vendor by the boat pilot at half price.

Another money-making venture was the photographers that clicked away at us as we headed out on the bikes and along the shore of the boat trip. If you are vain enough to think they just interested in your interesting face, then you are probably vain enough to buy the processed pictures of your mug when you get back to shore. I have encountered this scam before so just make gruesome faces when the photograph me. Anyways, they don’t bother me when I get back. They probably don’t print the pictures unless they use them to scare mis-behaving children.
An aside: I remember my first trip to China in 1989. It had just opened up to foreign visitors. People used the threat to their naughty children that the Big Noses (westerners), would eat them if they didn’t behave. Funny. When I was growing up, we were told to eat everything on our plates because there were starving children in China.

Back on the bus for the drive back to Ha Noi. It gave me the opportunity to write this blog.
We entered the city in darkness and somehow the bus found the street near our alley. So pleased we weren’t the last to be dropped off. A quick confirmation with the front desk that our bus and boat tickets were ready and we were off in search of supper. It was then past 8pm. We went around the block near the lake but found nothing of interest. Claudette remembered seeing a Lebanese joint on our travels last night so we retraced our steps and found it with little difficulty.

Everything was brand new. The hulking giant of middle eastern appearance ushered us in. We barely squeezed into the space offered. We could not get our legs under the table so sat with our backs against the wall and feet out in the passageway. We chose some Lebanese dishes and waited. The boss was in the back training the Vietnamese staff how to prepare the meal. It was ok but nothing special.
We returned to our hotel and prepared a small bag for our two night trip to Cat Ba.

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Photos

Hanoi Apartment building
Love these buildings with their ornate balconies. Usually a storefront on the ground floor and living quarters above. Narrow on street frond and deep. This is for tax loopholes.

Hoa Lu 1
Vietnam capital in 10th century.

Temple Hoa Lu
Memories of Anchor Wats.

Nimh Binh 1
Cycling around the countryside

Nimh Binh 4
The Chinese Buffalo breaks down.

River Cruise 1
After a short cycle of 9 kliks, we got into boats to be paddled up the river past rice paddies and caves surrounded by these awesome peaks.

River Cruise 2
Note that the rowers use their feet when their arms get tired