Halong Bay-Hanoi

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Dennis and I both awoke at 4am, unable to go back to sleep, so we walked the decks and watched as the sun rose behind a bank of fog and mist. We listened as the multitude of birds welcomed in the new day from their perches atop these lost worlds.

We attended a 630 Tai Chi class shortly after sunrise on the deck, silently stretching as we cruised through the fog towards our next stop. We visited a floating fishing village and pearl farm. One of the inhabitants brought each of us on a traditional bamboo fishing boat and paddled us through the village and amongst the islands. The village is comprised of 300 people, 17 families in all, complete with a medical clinic and school for the children. As we paddled by the homes we saw people going about their morning rituals, washing, fishing, children playing and dogs barking. I thought of my father and how he would have loved to live in such a place, a one room floating house where your entire existence revolves around fishing, waking and sleeping on the water.

The oyster pearl farm was unexpectedly fascinating. We were given a demonstration on how pearls are formed, young girls with surgical precision implanting a grain of sand into the uterus of an oyster, followed by a deposit of antiseptic, giving rise to the process of making the pearl 1-2 years later. Only 10% of these hand produced pearls will actually produce a pearl worthy of sale.

We slowly cruised back to port, sadly enjoying our last incredible feast vowing to return one day for a much longer stay.

We drove back to Hanoi and checked into a hotel closer to Hoan Kiem Lake, centrally located in the touristy backpacker area of the Old Quarter. Our hotel, Madam Moon Guesthouse ($23) was half a block from the lakefront, and smack dab in the middle of everything. We walked the now crowded streets as everyone returned back to the city and to work after enjoying their Tet (New Year). We learned that Tet is over a week long celebration here, and one of the most significant and celebrated holidays of the year. Most people go home to their villages and visit with family during this time, leaving the cities virtual ghost towns compared to their normal chaos.

Each house and business displays a cherry blossom and a kumquat tree, both symbolizing good luck. We were told that these trees are like our Christmas tree, and they adorn them with hanging decorations. The streets were beautifully festive, lined with red lanterns, flowers and Christmas lights. Next time we travel to Asia we’ll make sure to be present for the New Year’s Eve celebration.

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