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Published: November 23rd 2010
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This was our day to get a little exercise and visit several Hmong villages. Our morning adventure was a 3 KM trek that took us to the Cat Can Village and a lovely waterfall. We started off by walking down innumerable stairs from the peak of Sapa to the riverbed and waterfall. All along the way women are trying to sell you needlework bags, hats, wall hangings, eyeglass cases, wallets…. You name it. They either carry their wares in bags or baskets of have small stalls along the path. Much of the needlework is similar in design and quality even though it is hand done by many different people. Everywhere you look women and girls are constantly doing needlework. While the men work the rice fields the women do needlework primarily for tourists. Our guide explained that Hmong means “free people” and the government has a hard time enforcing any laws. This came up when he was translating a family planning poster. The government has made some headway and now enforces a law that prohibits girls from marrying before 18 when the usual age for marriage had been 13. I was really glad to hear this since if women can’t control
Hmong house near Ta Von
The reality of rural live in northern Vietnam their reproductive lives, they have no chance of gaining equal rights in other aspects of their lives and being married off at 13 only compounds the problem. When we got to the waterfall, there were women in the river washing cloth they dye with indigo dye. Even in the dry season water is flowing down the sides of the mountains and filling the rice terraces. The walk back up was kindler and gentler. We ended up at a stopping place that serves drinks and has large jars of alcohol with really big snakes in them and a small monkey siting on the porch.
Lunch back in Sapa included the local red soup (pumpkin, potato and carrot) which was very good. It was the best meal in Sapa, including dinner at the fancy hotel. After lunch we did our 5KM trek which was pretty much down or flat. The only challenge was that it was sort of like horizontal rock climbing so you had to pay attention or you’d fall in the mud. The villages we walked through all had electricity, but they were hovels. I can’t think of a better word nor am I inclined to romanticize rural poverty in
The cutest kids hat ever
Decorated with beads and bells. I couldn't resist even if I don't have a child or grandchild to give it to. a very poor country like Vietnam. Sure the children are running around playing, but they are often poorly clothed and dirty since they play in the mud and the Hmong bath once a month (whether they need it or not). The women are aggressive vendors, much like the Chinese and when you see where they live you understand why. While I know I should always bargain, I don’t have much of a stomach for it when I’m bargaining with someone over $2 on a $25 purchase and it is obvious that the $2 means a hell of a lot more to them than it does to me.
We got back to the hotel in time to shower and get ready for the trip back to Loa Ca and the train back to Hanoi. The mountain was completely wrapped in cloud cover and visibility on the switchback roads heading down was a couple of feet. I was very glad our driver went slowly and simply followed another van. I felt safer because I figured if the driver ahead made a mistake and plunged off the road and down the mountain, maybe our driver would be able to avoid following him over
She happily sold me pants
The pants are like the ones she is wearing and are very common among the Hmong. the edge. Being on the Victoria Express carriage means the cabin is cleaner and we can order wine, but we still get the utterly annoying banging. It may be another long night, but maybe the wine will help. I have my fingers crossed.
Before there are two other things I need to mention. First, my recent experiences have given me a keen eye for spotting wedding dress stores which are in every town. Jess – you’re on my mind. Second, I have made good friends with bananas. Since they are always available at breakfast, I make a point of picking up a couple every day for snacks. In a developing country bananas are a girl's best friends.
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