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Published: April 16th 2023
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(Apologies for the out of order post - we are going back in time a week for Siem Reap to Nha Trang!)
I was quietly relived when I saw my pack circling the conveyer belt in the Ho Chi Minh City airport arrivals hall. When we left Australia we noticed a fellow traveller had the same bag as me but his had a huge lime green strap around it and a large name tag so we weren’t too worried as mine had neither. That sentiment changed in Siem Reap airport when Leonard’s (last name withheld) bag was circling the belt in splendid solitude after we cleared customs. We headed to lost property and fortunately Leonard was waiting sheepishly with my bag and we sent him to collect his with many glares! I was therefore understandably triggered by the woman standing in front of me for our flight to Vietnam who again had the same bag! This time I proactively intervened to alert her to the possible issue and we each acknowledged the markers to distinguish each other’s luggage. Crisis averted!
Anyway having arrived in HCMC from Cambodia we headed to the taxi rank and our hotel. Word of warning
- be assertive at the rank - ignore the touts for all but Vina (white) and Mia Minh (green) taxis as the other companies are notorious for over charging - we had an argument with our driver who started the meter at 150,000 Dong when the entire trip should be 150-200,000!!!
Having finally arrived we set out for dinner and found a fun looking American restaurant where we had Mac and cheese and other classics. This was considered a good choice until 2am when I was awoken by K vomiting all over our bed 😞 We summoned the unfortunate night manager to take away and exchange our sheets and towels and changed the bed. Fortunately this was all that her body needed and the rest of the night passed uneventfully.
Our first full day in HCMC was spent touring Independence Palace and the War Remnants Museum. Back in the days of the American War (as locals call the Vietnam War) the country was divided into North and South and Saigon was the southern capital city. The place of government (now called Independence Palace) was used up until 1975 when it was finally claimed by the invading North Vietnamese
army in the fall of Saigon that ended the war. Eerily the palace has been left exactly as it was on that fateful day in 1975 complete with shagpile carpet and burnt orange drapes and there are still shows and clothes in the presidents closet and an underground bunker still has the maps used to manage the southern/US war efforts.
Next stop was the War Remnants Museum. This was a very sobering experience. In many countries around the world I have visited museums curated by the victors in conflicts and this was no different. The war was described as the liberation of South Vietnam and no mention was made of the many atrocities committed by the Viet Cong and northern government which were numerous! however it was a very accurate portrayal of the main elements of the war. i unashamedly teared up at points in the galleries when the draft in the west was discussed and I imagined those 19 year old boys yanked from their normal lives and forced to learn to kill and the trauma of that experience and the rooms detailing the impacts of agent orange not only on the environment but the people who are
still experiencing birth abnormalities in the 4th generation from direct exposure and no real compensation paid out. The US government is finally contributing to some clean ups in limited regions but its a drop in the ocean. The other exhibits I found impactful were the accounts of the brave US soldiers who intervened to stop massacres such as Hugh Thompson Jr a helicopter pilot who intervened to save civilians and escalated a demand to halt the My Lai massacre and faced years of negativity from the military and Michael Heck a B52 bomber pilot who faced court martial for refusing to continue bombing missions on civilian areas of Hanoi towards the end of the war. Such brave and principled actions amidst so much horror.
The next day we embarked on our two day tour of the Mekong Delta south of the city about 4 hours. Our first stop was a local market which included a very very wet area where the fish and eels were still splashing and the frogs still squirming! We wove our way through the throngs of local shoppers before arriving at the docks where our local boat was waiting. We putted down the river which
was wide and lined with houses until we reached more rural vistas. After a short trip in a local sampan boat we disembarked for a ride around a village along narrow laneways criss-crossing minor tributaries of the Mekong river. Lunch was at a ancient historic house where we were served the most dramatically presented crispy elephant ear fish. We overnighted in a dodgy 70’s style hotel in Can Tho where we had our first proper night street food experience ordering a myriad of skewers grilled to order served at low tables and tiny plastic stools on the pavement.
Next day we were up early to get a boat ride to the Cai Rang Floating Market. This famous market used to stretch for 2 kms and was the only way for local farmers to sell their produce but progress in the form of roads and bridges through and over the delta have meant the floating market has slowly been replaced with land markets. The government is keen to keep the Cai Rang market alive for the tourism experience which is still charming albeit quieter than expected. Boats advertise their produce by dangling samples on tall bamboo poles so you know
Cai Rang market
See the tall bamboo pole with fruit tied to it? That’s what the boats are selling what is available but it’s mostly just fruit and vegetables these days.
Our guide tells us that after the communists took over south Vietnam his family was sent from Saigon out to do forced farming in the delta. They grew sweet potatoes and sold them at the Cai Rang markets in their hey day.
On the way back to HCMC we stop at a coconut candy and rice paper factory a few pagodas and a fancy truck stop which helps break the long drive.
The Vietnam Railway network Is extensive and well developed with the most famous route being the Reunification Express which stretches from HCMC to Hanoi. We will be completing the entire route broken up into four segments with two being overnight trips.
The first section takes us from HCMC to Nha Trang where we spend two nights. We stay at a delightful hotel which has its own towels and loungers on the nearby beach which is heavenly.
The first full day is dedicated to K - an entire day at the Vinwonders theme park. Vietnam’s answer to Disneyland is actually pretty cool - The water slide area is awesome and due to
being quiet season we have at the most two people ahead of us for any ride queue. The lack of other people does feel weird in the large forecourt areas - like the day after the zombie apocalypse!
Next day we spend time at the local hot springs and mud baths of which there are numerous options - we select the newer I-resort which was very relaxing.
That night we board the train for our first overnight sleeper section - being rocked to sleep as the distance passes between Nha Trang and Danang - gateway town for the beautiful historic town of Hoi An.
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