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Published: October 31st 2009
I Can't Believe We Fell For It!
I never thought in my wildest dreams that 3:30 AM would be my preferred working time, but here it is again. Still can't get connected, so you will probably get these blogs in one big batch. I just learned that we have WiFi in our room although I can't seem to figure out how to access it; no matter - the internet, even at the hotel computers, is down.
Yesterday morning, after a lovely breakfast at our hotel we started out for a DIY tour of the top spots of Bangkok - the Royal Palace, Wat Phra Keo and Wat Arun, the temple of the dawn. Having scoped out the various methods of getting there we set off by cab, hailed by the hotel concierge. I think that was the last smooth move of the day. Although the driver missed to alley entrance to the boat by a block or so, no worry - it was a beautiful cool morning and we were soon on the Chao Phraya (Bangkok's main river) headed upstream. We debarked at the Palace pier where we found a huge map showing how to get to the palace. Note for future travel: take a photo of the map - you may need it later. We wandered in the direction indicated, following a few more farangs who, as it turned out, had no idea where they were going either. We came upon a Wat, clearly not either of the ones on our list, but the day was young and we were in no hurry.
We took a liesurely stroll around and then we met HIM. A lovely and friendly older man, he came up to us and started to tell us a little about the Wat. He then asked us what our plans were for the day and I told him. “Oh”, said he, “the Grand Palace is closed this morning. It is a Buddhist holiday and the palace will not open until 1PM”. Since there were several hours to wait, he suggested that we might want to see the Golden Mount with its beautiful view, and another Wat. He also suggested that we go to the Thai Expo, near the Mount, only on for a week each year, where we could see local handicrafts. Sure, why not. He said we could take a tuk-tuk there and it should cost 50 baht for 2 hours (about $1.50). He asked for a piece of paper and wrote the places in English and in Thai so we could show it to the driver. He said he would take us himself, but he was waiting for his child at the Wat school there. He called over a tuk-tuk parked at the curb and negotiated the price for us. Such a nice man
A wild amusement park ride across town, further than I thought he had indicated.we came to a wat, where we walked around - not the most exciting place, but okay. Back in the tuk-tuk we headed for the Golden Mount. We pulled up outside a building and I assumed it to be the Expo we were told about. We walked in to what turned out to be a jewelry store. He must have misunderstood the nice man, I thought, and we turned around and got back into our chariot, telling the driver that we didn't want any. No problem, says he, and takes off for our final stop, the Mount. “I will wait for you here and take you to the palace” No problem. After spending an hour or so, enjoying the local color of a carnival going on at the base and then climbing the 360 stairs to the top for a panoramic view of the city and a buddhist ceremony, we descended to the street and our appointed meeting place and waited, and waited, and waited. We didn't want to be ugly farangs and stiff the driver, for we had paid him nothing yet (I knew enough not to pay until the end) but after 45 minutes we finally gave up and grabbed another tuk-tuk for the palace. It occurred to me that the first driver might have given up on us because not buying jewelry meant no commission to him. I preferred to think that he gave up on us because he thought that we had stiffed him and grabbed another cab.
As we got out of the replacement tuk-tuk and started to follow people to what I assumed was the main entrance, we were stopped by a man in an official-looking uniform who pointed in the opposite direction and said “You must buy ticket at next gate”, so we turned heel and went down the street. How silly that the driver didn't know the correct gate... There we were greeted by another “official” who announced that today is a Buddhist Holiday and the palace was open today only until 1, but is now closed. However, he went on, the Golden Mount is now open and you can go there and come back to the palace tomorrow, when it will be open all day.
Finally the light dawned. Now I must tell you that I have read many blogs about the Grand-Palace-Closed-I-Take-You-To-Jewelry-Store Scams. I didn't realize that they started so subtlely. We turned once more and headed back in the direction we had originally gone and sure enough, just beyond the first man, obscured by a pillar, was the entrance, with tourists streaming in and out. “What are your hours today?” I inquired of the first guard. “We are open every day from 8 to 5”.
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Loren
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You seasoned travelers
Is your next leg to Nigeria to collect your portion of the inheritance? I got charged $40 for a 1-800 type phone call from the Rome train station, so I guess we've all been there.