Blisters and Prepubescent Boys

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I bet that title got your attention. Ha ha ha. Anyway, I've been in Chiang Mai for the past week and am about to leave for my next adventure... This week I wandered around markets ogling countless cheap and gorgeous things (okay, I also did a bit of buying, but everything I purchased miraculously fit into my backpack, so I don't feel too bad about it...and neither will my family when they see what I bought them). Shopping here is an experience like none other. There are so many great things and they all cost a fraction of what they would at home. The first few times I went to the market, I was so overwhelmed I just wandered around not even trying to bargain or buy because there was too much. I got over that pretty quick. I love bargaining. You really feel like you get to know who you're buying from. Well, kind of. One thing I don't like is bargaining with tuk tuk drivers. No matter what, you always feel like you're being ripped off. And it doesn't matter that they're only ripping you off 25-50 cents. It's the principle of the thing. Then they never know how to get to my hotel. I show them a map, where I have clearly circled my hotel, and still they have to go over and talk to other drivers until they know where it is. I can't figure it out. They live here. Shouldn't they know how to get to most places, or at least, understand a map of their city?

So, in addition to wandering around markets, buying unnecesarry but nevertheless exciting things, watching people get foot massages sitting in long lines of plastic chairs, and appreciating (or not) the various odors wafting around from food vendors, I've also taken some classes, read another book (why am I telling you this? Do I want you to think I've spent my entire time in Thailand reading??), gone to a Thai boxing match, and decided what to do for the next 7.5 months of my life. It's been a busy week. Oh, I forgot to mention I went to Myanmar (Burma) for 10 minutes as well.

Okay, first things first. The classes. I took a day of Thai cooking, which was a lot of fun. We went to the market, learned what a lot of the things were, touched a block of chicken blood (turns out thats what the dark chunks in my soup from the day before had been...ick), and watched a woman kill the fish that we later used in our curry. Then we went back to the place where the class was held and cooked 5 dishes, all of which were incredibly good. I didn't think that one day of class would make much difference in my ability to cook Thai food, but even knowing what different ingredients are needed, what flavor comes from what, and how to cook a few dishes will be very helpful. (Writing this makes me want some curry...mmm.) I also learned that I LOVE coconut cream. Too bad there aren't many coconuts in Denver...but then again I won't be back for awhile...

Anyway, I've also been taking a jewelry making class for the past few days. (The same one Mari, Catherine and Margo took when they were here.) I never knew what goes into making a ring (I've made 3) - namely, a LOT of sanding, filing, heating, sawing, and pounding. But mostly filing and sanding. I've sanded so much silver in the past few days that I have blisters on both thumbs. But it is really cool when you finally finish polishing the ring, and you can put it on, and know that you transformed a scrap of metal into a work of art. (Okay, maybe I'm getting ahead of myself there...but they are pretty nice.) The teacher only really warmed up to me in the last few minutes of the workshop today, my last day, but oh well. I think it helped that I broke two saws and messed up my ring at least twice today. Looking like an idiot always makes people feel very friendly for some reason. Anyway, I will have a lot more appreciation for the craftmanship of jewelry from now on.

I went to the boxing match last night. It was exciting. I've wanted to see Thai boxing ever since I read about it in the guidebook, but only got around to it now. So first, around 16 or so prepubescent boys came into the rink, all shirtless (oooh) and holding Thai flags. Then a bunch of men in pastel ties came up and stood in front of them. There were a bunch of announcements in Thai, and then everyone stood (I'm assuming to pay respect to the king). Then the boxing match began (after everyone got off the rink, of course). Now, I assumed that the boys were just there for the beginning, that they were from some middle school that was being honored or something. But no, turns out they were the boxers. The boxing far less bloody than what I expected. The boys only knocked each other over a few times. In between the punching and kicking, they circled each other in time with the classical Thai music blaring over the loudspeakers. It was like a dance almost. I liked watching their faces, observing how they sized each other up, the intensity of their focus. It really seemed like an art form. At some points they would put their arms around each other, holding each other close while trying very hard to pummel and kick each other. At those times I would get kind of jealous. What I wouldn't give for a hug, even if the person hugging me was simultaneously trying to knock me out. (Just kidding - kind of.) Another note: there were Jack Daniel's signs everywhere. At the beginning of each match, the boys would walk to the four corners of the rink, each of which had a pad with the Jack Daniel's logo on it, and bow, before doing some other preliminary dance-like movements. I found it rather ironic that they were bowing to the Jack Daniel's logo.

Oh, I forgot to mention I got the best massage OF MY LIFE the day after I got back from the trek. I guess that makes up for the horrible one I got before it. I went to one of those really posh spas here and paid the HUGE price of $15 for a 2 hour massage, which included having my feet washed in a tub of water with flower petals floating in it. It might have been because my muscles were sore from the trek, but afterward, I was absolutely elated. I have never felt like that after a massage before.

About Burma: Not much to report. Went 4 hours in a minivan (I got in first and thought I had the best seat until I realized that the sun would be blaring right on me the entire way) to Mae Sai, where we walked through, had our passports stamped, walked around for 10 minutes, were accosted by dozens of begging children, some of whom were holding babies - it really made my heart ache - then walked back into Thailand, I ate the aforementioned chicken blood soup (it grosses me out to put it that way), and we got back into the van. Luckily the sun had shifted just enough in the sky that I got another wonderfully sauna-like experience the whole 4 hours back. Then I bought my ticket to Paris and realized that it actually would have been cheaper to not renew my visa and pay the fine for overstaying the last one.

Which brings me to the next topic: What I'm doing with my life for the next 7.5 months. Well, first I'm flying to Paris on Sunday night. My friend Alexis lives there, and is very kindly (thanks Alexis!!) letting me stay in her apartment for 5 days. I am going to explore the city, drink cappucinos (that cost the same as a night in a hotel and breakfast here), go to museums, and do it up like none other (that one was for you, bom). Then she is coincidentally on a break from her masters program, so she, her boyfriend, another friend, and I are planning to drive through southern France, stop in a place in the mountains in the north of Spain, and end up in Madrid, where her boyfriend's parents live, and where my parents just happen to be coming to visit my sis, who is studying there. Then I'm going to Israel for 7 months to take part in the WUJS Arad Arts Program, a program where you basically have an artist residency, take classes about Israel and Judaism, do Ulpan (Hebrew learning), take trips to different parts of the country once a week in addition to trips around Israel to meet Israeli artists a few times, and get mentored by local artists. (Amos Oz lives in Arad and has met with past participants about their writing.) Can you tell I'm excited?!? Whew. What a relief. 8 more months until I have to figure out what to do with the rest of my life.

Anyway, I am hoping that everyone at home is doing well. If anyone wants to email/leave a message on my blog, it will really make my day. Despite all of the excitement of being here, I do sometimes miss people who know me and with whom I can have a conversation about more than where I'm from/what I'm doing, etc.

I am off soon to Kanchanaburi to see the famous Bridge over the River Kwai.

Much Love,
Daniela

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Comments

[Margie]

Happy Days
Daniela, as I wrote to you earlier, I'm excited that you're excited about the next almost 8 months. Have a blast in Paris and enjoy the family in Madrid. Love reading your blogs. Hugs across the miles.A. Margie

[Rachel]

Miss you
Hey Daniela, We havent talked in like a week which is a long time for us. I hope that everything is great - I love reading your blog so keep up the good work! Say hi to Israel for me...I miss it! Love, Rachel

[dyana zaslowsky]

Heading for a wedding
Dear Daniela, sent you a longish note, then it seems it didn't go through. or did it? Your adventures sound wonderful, particularly the part about the foot massage. We are four weeks and counting. . . very excited, it will be grand. Sorry you are missing it. love dyana and bert

[liz]

oh you crazy thang
*hug*. wowee! keep having a good time out there. miss you back here, but glad to know you're having as much of a blast as i hoped you would. i like reading these. love and more love, liz.