End of the road

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The final week of our two month holiday saw us soaking up the sun in Ko Lanta, an island off the south west coast. Having had our fill of elephant safaris, bamboo rafting and trekking, we decided to devote ourselves to loafing about on the beach, sipping Mai Tai cocktails and watching sunsets.

We took a day trip to Ko Phi Phi, which has the most spectacular scenery of all the Thai islands. There was some visible tsunami damage remaining, the first we have seen on our travels. The island is fast recovering- maybe too fast, judging by the size of some of the new developments going up on an already crowded resort.

Our guides suggested that we walk up to a viewpoint overlooking Ton Sai, the main port on Phi Phi. Had we known this climb practically required oxygen masks we might have been more circumspect. In any case, once Linda had performed CPR on Steve at the summit we were rewarded with great views of the back-to-back beaches and the hills beyond.

Back on Ko Lanta, we swung in hammocks, played pool against tiny moppets barely able to see the table, watched a few movies in beach bars (if you arrive first you can choose what's on and hog the cushions in front of the big screen TV), and finally read all the paperbacks we'd been dragging round with us for two months.

At this hectic pace, six days soon disappeared and we were on the plane back to Bangkok for our last two days in Thailand. Preparations were underway in the city for Chinese New Year on the 29th. Large chains of firecrackers were being set off everywhere, huge dragon floats sat in roadside laybys waiting for the processions to start, and Chinese Thais busied themselves by burning what looked like most of their possessions in braziers on the pavements outside their houses- a New Year tradition which doesn't do much for the air quality.

On our itinerary were the largest solid-gold Buddha in the world, at Wat Traimit- five and a half tons of Buddha bullion- and the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho- a whopper to be sure, and difficult to capture on camera given that he almost completely fills the temple that surrounds him. We also visited the largest teak building in the world, the Vimanmek palace (no nails were used in the construction), and the house of the former Thai prime minister (a delightful traditional Thai building, with a very friendly Koi carp in the pond who practically crawls out of the water to get closer to you if you show an interest).

As the time for departure neared, we engaged in another backpacker tradition and started selling our possessions to get the weight of our hold baggage down. Several stalls along the Khao San road have signs reading 'WE BUY EVERYTHING', a promise which was sorely tested in the face of the rubbish we dragged along. Our paperbacks, and Linda's trainers, were quickly snapped up, but we were smilingly advised that we could keep our old T-Shirts and beach towels (we eventually found someone destitute enough to take these off our hands for free!).

And so, spiritually (and materially) lightened, we headed for the airport. We've enjoyed our time in Thailand immensely. While it can't compete with India in terms of variety and cultural heritage, it's a beautiful country and a much easier destination in many ways- travel, food, accommodation are all cheaper and better than in India, and generally you get far less hassle. We'll definitely be back.

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Photos

Ko Phi Phi
The viewpoint above Ton Sai. Bring your crampons.

Pool hustler
Choose your opponent carefully

Wong Wae, the friendly fish
Linda's piscine pal at the former Thai prime minister's house

In the year 2549
Dragon floats in preparation for the year 2549 BE (Buddha Era) celebrations

The ocean blue
Crystal clear, fish filled waters around Ko Phi Phi

Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho