Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and back to Bangkok

---

The city of Chiang Mai is surrounded by the remnants of a old wall and moat. It's around 700K from Bangkok, and while this might conjure up images of stepping into a bygone era, it is far from this. Thailand is very much a 21^st century country, there appears to be a burgeoning middle class, the roads are in good shape and the rickety buildings of forty years are few and far between. Ribbon development has run amok in Thailand, with buildings that run either side of the main highways and link towns together. Back to Chiang Mai, myself and Malcolm are staying in a guest house recommended by Lonely Planet, it's costing us $20 per night and it has an en-suite . The courtyard area where we take our morning breakfast is a little oasis, complete with foliage and a water feature containing fish. Life is good, the price is right and the staff are very attentive.



It's Sunday, December 1^st and we are back on our 125cc motor bikes for a ride on the road around the mountain that dominates Chiang Mai. Various tourist ventures dot the road, from snake farms to orchid gardens and even businesses offering ATV adventures. Our main objective is to visit a snake farm. Once inside, we find it's a bit run-down, however it offers the opportunity to see snakes and birds from the region. There is something extremely sad about seeing a majestic eagle in a small cage where it cannot fly. The main attraction is the snake handling and milking show. I'm not exactly the biggest fan of snakes, but putting on a show every 15 minutes for tourists means the snakes are in a constant state of “pissed off” and when they are not, they are goaded into being pissed off by handlers that tap them with a stick. I was actually feeling sorry for the snakes and as a finale, the audience is offered photo opportunities holding a big python. The tourists get wear the snake around their necks, while the handlers hold the head and the onlookers cameras go click, click, click. I'm over these roadside snake farms and it's an experience that I do not need to repeat.



Our bikes continue down the road and pass interesting agricultural enterprises that I wouldn't associate with Thailand, such as the growing of roses and strawberries. One area we pass has an abundance of large houses and is obviously a rich enclave for the Chiang Mai wealthy. People such as the ex prime minister “Thaksin, exiled under a cloud of corruption” have homes in the area. I later run into a Canadian who has lived in Thailand for the past 10 years and also owns a home. He informs me that he's never been invited for dinner! Currently, there are anti corruption riots going on in Bangkok to attempt to stop Thaksin's return from exile. The motor bike ride takes us most of the day and we return to the Mountain-View Guest House in the late afternoon.



In the evening we splash out and eat at a French Restaurant, La Provence, owned by a lady called Elisabeth from Nice. She left France 12 months ago to start her restaurant in Chiang Mai, however on the evening myself and Malcolm dined there is only one other couple eating. I don't know why she left France, but for a lady that must be approaching 70, it seems to be a very courageous venture. The food is good, but is expensive by Thai standards, and is obviously beyond many of the backpacker budgets.



The following day, we return our motor bikes. After which, we stroll around town and visit some of the ancient Wats within the old city. It's a day to take it easy before heading North. Over the past few days we have passed a Mexican Restaurant, Burritos. However, it is run by Burmese and they obviously need to attend a Mexican cooking class as the burrito is very mediocre.



The next part of our journey takes us to Chiang Rai on the VIP bus; a 3 hour journey. Now, this is the way to travel, the seats are comfortable, roomy and it's even conducive to taking a nap along the way. The bus has a hostess that serves biscuits and water during the journey. We have resolved to take the same style of bus on our return to Bangkok. On arrival in Chiang Rai a tuk-tuk takes us to a guest house called Mae Hong Son where a double room costs 200 baht per night US (6.60 approx). However, the bathroom is shared, the room basic, the bed hard, but the couple that manage the guest house are lovely.



The first order of business is to rent motorbikes and this is quickly accomplished. The White Temple, our first destination, it's a Goudyesque version of a Thai Temple in white. Chalermchai Kositpipat, the artist who designed the templecertainly had something in mind and it is different to the standard golden Wat. In the evening we visit the night market and open air food court. They have all kinds of food for sale, from insects to seafood and squid. Malcolm goes for deep fried prawns and chips and I partake of barbequed squid. We also try some of the insects, bamboo worms, which are not too bad. However, the next day Malcolm has stomach problems. Personally, I think it's the prawns.



Chiang Rai is on the bottom end of the Golden Triangle, the border area between, Burma, Laos and Thailand. In the past, the majority of the world opium was grown in the hills and mountains of the three countries that make up the Golden Triangle. Today, the Thai Government appears to have been successful in it's program of stamping out the opium poppy and introducing new crops such as coffee and tea. I witness hill tribes drying coffee beans on my journey to Mae Sei on the Burmese border, however there are several police checkpoints on the main roads stopping vehicles and running the sniffer dogs around in their search for drugs.



Wednesday, Dec 4^th. Malcolm is feeling under the weather, but bravely decides to accompany me in search of a hill tribe called the Akha. We have spent an hour in the Hill Tribe museum the previous day and are sure that we have an idea where this hill tribe is hiding. Oh stupid us, first I lose Malcolm and head into the hills on my quest alone. I turn off the main road into a secondary road that I am sure will lead me into long forgotten villages, I immediately run into an army checkpoint and explain that I am on a quest. Unfortunately we are not communicating, but they let me through anyway and I do find a village that hugs the mountainside and even find someone that speaks English. Akha, I say, “yes we are Akha” is the reply, however they don't resemble the photographs of the brightly adorned Akha that I had seen in the museum. They tell me they grow the best coffee in Thailand, and even though I am enthusiastic about this, I am not offered a cup. I carry on the windy, pot-holed road through the hills and often see large razor wired areas that seem to cut off pathways into the undergrowth. Perhaps Opium is still being grown, or perhaps it's to stop guerillas from neighboring Burma. Anyway, the area is heavily patrolled by Army and I encounter several more checkpoints as I slowly make my way through the mountains to the border town of Mae Sai.



When I get back to the guest house, Malcolm is already there. Sickness is overcoming him and he is in no condition to go on another ride the following day.



The next day I head north again, this time to Chiang Saen on the Mekong River. I suppose that it takes me a around 1 ½ hours to get there. A muddy fast flowing river greats me and I can clearly see Laos, it would have been good to go to Laos, but my passport is held hostage by the motor-cycle dealer, and I have to content myself with looking at Laos rather than visiting. The Customs checkpoint has a big sign saying “people smuggling drugs into Thailand will receive the death penalty”. I sit by the river and eat lunch of fish poached in a ginger and chile sauce, BBQ'd inside a giant bamboo tube. After my relaxing meal I decide to have a Thai massage before continuing my journey. The massage is a real pummeling, and the woman uses her elbows, knees and feet to work over my aching body. The hour passes quickly and then I am on my way to Chiang Khong on the river road. Unfortunately for me, it is 60km away and the road is in a bad state of disrepair. By the time I reach Chiang Khong it is 4.00pm and I am in two minds about getting a guest house for the night or continuing on with my 132km journey back to Chiang Rai. However, I am concerned about my sick friend and decide that I should make the trip. I wish I had waited until the next morning, the ride is hell and takes me 2 ½ -3 hours arriving back in the dark, covered in dust and with a really sore bum.......



The next two days are spend relaxing and getting ready for our return to Bangkok. We have reserved tickets on the VIP bus and have booked 5 nights in the Windsor hotel where we started out. Malcolm will complete his dentistry and I will attempt to buy cutlery at the Weekend market (achieved). The Windsor has a very nice rooftop pool and it will provide the perfect place to catch up on reading and relaxation.



As a postscript, because of the political unrest in Thailand the Prime Minister, Thaksin's sister, has dissolved parliament to make way for new elections.



I'm heading for home on Friday, Dec 13 in time for Caroline's birthday.





Where will my next blog come from? Who knows!!!!

---

Comments

[Robin]

Home
Caroline says come home. Your time is up!

[Caroline]

Next blog?
From the chook house, I think!

[Dave M]

Safe Trip