Koh Chang - Lonely beach

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To get to Koh Chang in itself was fun. It all started at 07.30 in the morning with an unexpected trip on the back of a scooter with my backpack behind me. I am not a huge fan of scooters at the best of time, and the thought of heading through Bangkok in the early morning traffic didn't fill me with confidence. Luckily the trip by scooter wasn't too far, and I just stuck a stupid grin on my face and held on, rather than my other option of closing my eyes and hoping for the best.

The bus was half full, and as the first on, I managed to get the best seats with noone in front of me. The trip in tiself was mainly uneventful, 3 dead dogs were the only real thing of note along the way. I did like that they obviously have an agreement with a food place not far out of Bangkok. The trip was around 5 and a half hours, so after 1 and a half hours they turn back towards Bangkok and head to this restaurant. Telling us that it was our only stop and we should eat there and had half an hour.

The place was in the middle of nowhere and the food was standard roadside fare for Thailand, so nothing special. After twenty minutes when most of us were finished and back on the bus, the driver decides that its time to go. Only to have a passenger run up the bus to advise him that their friend was not on the bus. He duely stopped and three slightly concerned passengers dashed onto the bus.

Right so off we go we all thought, as that was our only stop, but of course ten minutes down the road, he pulls over to refuel and orders us all of the bus for a further twenty minutes. This stop had several nice looking food stalls and a 7 Eleven. Grrr

The rest of the journey passed by with me either reading, dozing or looking out the window to watch the landscape roll by. Stopping only once to let a person out on the side of the street, telling him it was the drop off point to Koh Samet. Only guessing that one of the songthaews there would actually take him to the ferry.

Having bought the coach trip and ferry for 300 baht from Bangkok, when we arrived at the ferry point my ticket was stamped and a quick taxi down the pier to the boat.

The ferry itself looked like it may just rust away at any point, but the managed to put both trucks and cars on it, so I guessed that it may hold out for our journey across. This lasted for about an hour, the hills of Koh Chang slowly coming into view all covered in clouds.

Having checked up on Koh Chang it seemed that most of the cheap backpacker huts were located at the other end of the island at Lonely beach, so after getting off the ferry this is where I asked to go. Standard price 100 baht for the songthaew. The great thing about this part of the trip is that the roads are quite steep and winding. The added bonus was that there were several larger ladies on the seats in the back, so I got to hang off the grate on the back most of the way. I have always wanted to do that, and loved every minute of it.

Having travelled though the other beach resorts, getting off at lonely beach seemed to be stepping back in time. With jungle surronding the few soi's full of bars and beach huts. 7 Eleven has not even made it here yet!

Being low season the huts are pretty much all going for 300 baht a night, and all of them seem to have room available at the moment. Seeing how many people around during the day, or out at the parties at night it really does feel like lonely beach. And all of the locals are complaining that it is so quiet.

When you first get dropped off and walk down the soi and see the beach, instead of sand you find just rocks. In fact two of the people that came from the ferry were so disappointed that they got a taxi back out. The secret is to walk five minutes back down the road from whence you have just come, past the bus stop, and follow the signs down to where the sand is.

The beach in itself is okay, the sea is rough at the moment and the red flags are out to advise not to swim. Apparently some big rip tides hit this side of the island. I have certainly done not more than paddle in the sea, as you would get pounded by the breakers that are coming in. And picking sand out of my face every five seconds is not my idea of fun.

I have spent my time, as usual wandering around, lazing about reading and generally stuffing myself every few hours on something different from the menu. There is a great little restaurant on the main soi that does good food at a reasonable price, I have just left there having had a lovely noodle soup for 40 baht.

I took a trip back into civilisation today, down to white sand beach. They have proper shops and banks and things, all very odd. I found some beach huts there that are right on the beach and are quoting the same price as I am paying here, so I may go and try that for a few days. I did like the signs in most of the bars there that state "No Drugs, No Weapons". We don't have any of those signs here, so I assume drugs and weapons are allowed?

Anyway thats all for now folks, I will let you know more, when I have moved around a bit and lazed somewhere else.



Take care

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Comments

[gordon]

I just love your next home. This part of the beach is amazingly chilled. Have fun Sheds.