Bangkok, I'm back! 4 months in

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I didn't expect this feeling, not until a certain flight back west. But I had it, those warm belly risings of feeling like you're headed home. I was beaming, the Bangkok lights slowly coming into view, Thai about the billboards. I was sitting in the front seat of the minibus with a lovely girl from China, we'd talked and asked lots from politics to our stories, hopes, on the way from Siem Reap. And now she was laughing and asking what I was looking out at, I was entranced - 'Bangkok, its just, ah I feel so happy coming back'.


It was four months on, from that arrival, of me quietly looking out with wide eyes and a big clean rucksack (thanks Rach!) on my back, fresh off the flight into Asia. I was thinking of that person, sweet and new to all this, unknowing of what could lie ahead. It was an interesting feeling. For me, it was showing how much this trip has meant. How rewarding for me to travel solo - to do new things, to have new ways of spending time; for there to be much time to just be with me and anything in my mind or soul that day, with surroundings to truly notice and go get into, or maybe just observe. I trusted myself, I'd had to, I'd been making choices and sussing my preferences most days, it wasn't so routine, led or automatic. I'd learnt that I will work things out, from a grumpy head to when to move on, how to get myself about, how to try that something, how to find sweet spots and flows in new places.

And one big thing i learnt was that I'd underestimated how much other people would make this adventure. The passing characters who helped how I understood or engaged with the locality, of great new friends where connections were made deeply, openly, in a raw present spirit - there were no shared histories or bases, just where we each were right there. Some people you'd share a top day or night with, or just a conversation on the train, over food or a drink.. some to share a particular environment with, then one of you then moves on; but that time is treasured in itself. Others, I felt sure of shared future times, that we'd be around.

Hey, I could travel alright! I could have exciting, quiet, tough, social, alone, even antisocial, free, emotional, engaging, unsure, moving, learning times; sometimes just me, sometimes with others, and I wanted more.
It was like I'd gone off and got some badges and now came back with a gratefulness, a knowing and a lucky charm, a head and heart of treasures.


I had chosen a sweet spot to stay, buried in China Town with its alleyways of clustered old car parts, food stalls, trade, creeping trees and sat-out folk under Chinese signs - River View guesthouse. I'd grabbed a coffee on the way here, really keen to fully grab my first evening back, and that ping of the 7-11 door made me chuckle aloud. A missed little thing. And on getting in, I was up to the rooftop I'd read about and was blown away by the night views. I'd spend some lovely time up here, writing my blog and my other bits, relaxed on the sofas or breezed at the cute riverview tables. Tonight I sat looking out, reflecting and taking in a Leo beer.


In my first sweep through the city back in November (between my long sleeps!) I'd commented that you could navigate the city by the skytrain's concrete pathways overhead. I was wrong. The city is huge. Sprawling, layered, dynamic, and rewarding as you push out into wider zones, far from clear paths. I spent many hours this time wandering around, trying to just go and see what I could find.
Closeby, I found a nice coffee stall a few alleys from where I'd wake up, the lovely street barrister knowing how I liked it and giving me a knowing smile as I approached - in a bag of ice, with a little condensed milk (the coffee, not the smile)

A little less close, I found three wonderful parks -
1) lumphini with its crow crowds, its monitor lizards sneaking about. I would lay under trees watching the birds, do exercises on the grass (finding a quieter patch!) and listen to podcasts walking about amongst the myriad of tree types and seeing the modern city bones outside.

2) Santichaiprakan park by the Banglamphu pier stop, with its layered grass spots where you could buy a delicious smoothie and relax. There were aerobics as evening came in (to watch) and a stop for the King's song before people continued watching their iPads, yoga-ing and jumping up with friends to swing on tree branches. I also spent one evening here with a lovely guy called Henry. Henry was well travelled and his face lined with experiences, about kind eyes. We talked about american politics, of economics and equality, and his speciality - self understanding - on which he helped organise a series of free lectures here in Bangkok. Unfortunately I'd not be around for the next one here, but I took a business card, a lecture in summer London. The night coming in, he jumped on his bicycle and bid me fair well, good luck.

3) Benchakitti park, set about a gleaming lake and off the shining high rises, a good place for the one jog I did do. A scrunched baht note tucked away to get a gasped for water after!


My first task was to get my Vietnam visa, so i was off to the embassy roads and finally spotted the small door I needed. It seemed this was the only embassy not signed for, the faded flag on the door whispering me over. Inside, it was very easy and quick, my passport left for a sleepover whilst it got its new mark. This was part of a long city walk of taking in new areas I might have glimpsed from above, but now took as a little dot amongst the ground level bustle. New buildings, catching glimpses of people's lives along the routes, wandering down then often back up side streets.


I'd loved the river boats before, and this time I wanted to go further. I stayed on the boat quite past the well known spots and got off where a group of Thais left the boat (no. 23) and where flocks of mingling pigeons awaited on the pier bridge. Two good reasons to depart. I moved through the taking-off grey feathered masses into sunshine. Here was a temple area (Wat Soi Thing) with a large golden dome i could peak. I wanted to go see, as the crowd ahead dispersed, some of them monks heading into the buildings. But on walking down the dome ending road, a big dog started really going for me, he wouldn't let off! Even as I put into play the picking up a stone pretence and saying a sharp hey. I needed back up! He was coming down after me as I hesitated (but I'm nice, I thought!) and some people came out to help. He wasn't worried though, tracking me through the parked vehicles. I thanked the help attempts as i briskly walked backwards then turned on my heel! Barks subsided.

Okay, restart. I took a small narrow pathway between houses lining the rivers. Lots of planted pots, hand painted signs and people saying hi as I passed, and one dog who was completely cool with me (I mouthed thankyou back to him). I came out into a junk yard area, looking about for where to walk, when an old man appeared ahead. He nodded in a friendly way and gave me a follow on gesture. He had a bad limp, leaning on his walking stick, as I calmly caught up he would look back and smile or point out at the river and up at buildings for me to see. We walked together along a river path, his English was about the level of my Thai so we made do with my 'kobkhunka's, with smiles and gestures (which you do see first hand has its own cultural permeations). He then pointed toward a blingy temple, nodding me forward. We said goodbye, he was really kind. I looked about, then wondered where he now continued - he was quickly gone again. So, I took in the temple. Bright twistings of painted stone winking with gem stones, vivid chinese painted scenes, the real life scenes of those coming by.



I noticed on my 'further boat trip' various abandoned piers; and I walked by two where, whilst their faded signs indicated they'd been unused a while, groups were now using them as hang out spots. One had a group of middle aged guys, many laid out in the shade, others joshing over dominoes, heavy cigarettes and coffees. Another pier was holding a loved up couple, looking out at the river, taken away by getting off route together.

I made my ways back in land, and walked a few hours through the Bangsue neighbourhoods. It was different from the bangkok I'd seen before, I guess it just had its own purpose and movement. A community within the city. Here I stopped at a sweet flower cafe. The little TV in the corner, buried amongst plants, was showing a Thai news reporter interviewing Leicester city fans on the impact the Thai investors had had. This modern world.

I practised saying it's hot, and of wanting an iced coffee, with the cafe server. Attempting it from a phrase offering a nice guy over in Thonburi gave the day before. He'd seen me (sweating in my walk) and started conversation about the heat, which moved to the different uses of hot in Thai and seeing how that's similar to English (the weather, feeling it oneself, of heightened emotions, and of attractiveness) - 'Wan-nee, rorn' (today, hot - I'd forgotten the linking grammar), 'ga-fey, yen' (coffee, cold)!



Time to get back on a boat, so i kept my eyes open for a pathway that could lead back to the river and a pier. The one I found was a very cool spot. The pier poked out between a cafe of reggae music - Bob Marley paintings, young thais looking utterly cool. Baggy trousers, blonde mohawks, tattoos, easy smiles and nodding to the music. I grabbed a drink and took in the atmosphere til a boat came.





Other nice highlights of bangkok take 2 (or was it 3), were -

-- A kids Rock band contest - walking through the long silom-sala daeng metro link (Bangkok's green park equivalent) I heard a good voice taking on.. I know this.. The cranberries! Zombie. Excellent. My headphones out, I hoped to find the source. Below the metro pass was a stage - Bangkok young band winners. They had a crowd, and up here I joined many others in leaning over and clapping them on. They were so good, endearing, engaged, together. It really made me smile. And upped my urge to dance.. Moving swift through the rest of the metro once they ended (with a Bruno Mars one, but they made the repetitive and bland original work for them), rocking on my feet, as Caribou played. I'd later try to source spots in Bangkok for me to dance..



-- The Royal palace grounds and the evening kites - tired, and looking for some food, I insisted on getting to the grounds first. And it was a delightful spot. The slowly changing sky was a set for a swoon of kites. Dancing in the breeze, flicking up and twirling to gossip with others. The Royal Palace a golden sunset to one side. Under the emerging moon, young kids were rollerblading, I couldn't help but watch and grin, they were so so good. Impersonating the swift, elegant kites of above amongst the laid out cones. I sat and took in the simple beauty, families here for evening picnics, people coming to do their flow activities, to get lost after the day.



-- The Discovery of Siem museum - a belter of a museum! It began with an interactive short of 7 characters who we'd follow through the gallery rooms, each a modern Thai entangled with a historical soul. The museum would confidently, cleverly tell the narrative of how to be Thai is no one thing.. But of a rich, dynamic, multi-ethnic history. An example was of how the important figure of King Uthon who established the kingdom of Ayutthaya in 1350 (that would become an important, international capital) could have been a fleeing Indian prince, the son of a Chinese merchant, a Vietnamese migrant.. lots of potential roots but no clear answers. It explored ancient human finds in the area, from homo erectus to homo sapiens, a skeleton 'Lamphang man' in North Thailand dating back to similar periods as the 'Peking man' and 'Java man' skulls. Then less far back to a time when Bangkok was underwater and there was talk of the 'land of gold' that stretched across modern day Burma, Thailand and Cambodia; an area that would become a hub of trade and interaction. The museum explored the rising of city kingdoms, as mandala states, the rise and fall of these, and of the changes and interactions of religions from animism to Hinduism and then Buddhism. It then moved us through to the map room displaying the created nations and borders as a response to the colonial threat. To then leave us with exhibits of 20th century Thailand through nation forming, propaganda posters and 50s style diner interiors; to the vibrant present and future Thailand.



-- Less of a find was in heading down to pier 3, that I'd often see in my riverside peer outs, and home of the well advertised Asiatech. It was pretty dull! A modern complex with an over-designed fixedness, one of those places you don't feel you can just wander about. It was a regenerated wharf of fancy shops and restaurants.. selfies, designer gear, clinking cocktails, shopping bags - not my thing, that's all - though the big lit ferris wheel was tempting. I quickly returned upstream.



On one of the days I decided to get off on the river's other side - Thonburi, my bangkok take off point last time. The boat stop begins through hospital grounds. Crowds of lab coats, lanyard necks, older relatives being walked around.. I took it in, not sure how to navigate my way through but following the crowds. One group of young doctors led the way to their lunch spots, at the start of vast market rows that crisscrossed ahead so that you couldn't see a way back out to the open sky. I picked up some delicious strawberries and spicy noodles, enjoying seeing the different items laid out all about. I walked about in the hot day, by the wider area's temples, through narrow streets and got to the canals finally (I knew they were about somewhere!) They were rode by wooden boat curvings, with a few tourists, I nodded back to the drivers as I sat legs dangling out from the path dead end with my lunch. The canals were sneaking about the area's homes, under balcony, round gardens; there was no waterside as such, just peaks between buildings or under your feet was the swooshing water. Life on the water.

There was time to then meander by foot down to Wat Arun, 'the temple of dawn', with its scaffolding though undoubted presence from afar. And up close I saw how beautiful this white Khmer style complex was. Centred about a tall prang, it held little treasures in its crafted stone risings, delicately decorated levels and indents. The gardens and ground statues were a pretty setting, before jumping on the 6p boat over to the river's opposite bank.





This time epitomised a somewhat unexpected, but really lovely finding of this trip - that many, and many different kinds, of places can feel or be made to feel like home, where your sweet spots can be found. There's excitement and newness, yet a settledness in where you are. And Bangkok had somehow, simply become a bridge of my travels. The city I hadn't been worried about staying in for much time at all when I arrived, had become a home away from home, just because. I knew I'd be back again, a centre of South East Asia's charming webs.

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