Team 'nam - part 1

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Prelude

Heading to the airport, timing the path on my Casio, big bag dropped off at Hualamphong station - I'm light and beaming. Michelle and Nicki's flight is landing as I feel the skyline's cool air con and my music in my ears, moving toward their landing spot. Eee! A rise of excitement. A bubbling up I've had over the last few days, a lovely natural high - my friends! from London!, suddenly going to magicked here. Of course, for them, there's been tube lines, airport waits, questions of packing (and re-organising, Mims) bags and themselves for a transition into South East Asia's heat, it's own busy and charms. And I'd been getting photo updates through this last twenty hours, through my stop offs and a night beer at my hostel's rooftop, through their anoraks and airport boarding gates, silly faces and nearby characters to tell me of.

Its 10am, I had run to make an airport line connection and now swung easy into the terminal. Arrivals gate. I was stuck transfixed at the people coming through.. 'They look British, maybe?'. I wasn't able to get my notebook out and scribble a silly welcome sign for them as planned, rather staring on at the wheely cases and tired eyes moving toward me (I wasn't looking for either of these of course, rather familiar bright eyes and soonly familiar big bags)

No bloody way - there they are!

Three snap mental notes - 1) great timing through the airport (i know, such a grown up comment), 2) they look all glowey! (A pre-meeting spruce up I wondered? Later confirmed - a plane seat teeth brush, an airport loos change) and, 3) Nicki in classic traveller pants already (great work! It took me 4 months to take the plunge into my baggy greens).

Huuggggg! Oh wow, they're here, we're here.. Ahhhh!

Tagging my eyes onto their faces as we chat away, noticing little of other people or our surroundings but just walking forward together through the airport. Laughing a lot, with a comfort balanced with a surreality about us. A change and bag sort, a chance to show off the practicalities of Smiles' big-bag-little-bag combo (nice to see it in the flesh after watching it being opened on Skype!).



And what did Mims, Nicki and Lee do?

- Pit-stopping in Bangkok, we paced through a packed tour of Vietnam, with big laughs, wide eyes and long tales; with awards and key milestones to be noted here along the way.

So, onto a whizz tour of Bangkok of course, with 5 hours til an airport taxi (I had a plan, see)



1) Bangkok Whizz

Onto the skytrains and metro. Our heads are looking out and around, a few Bangkok facts and stories from me, hug lean ins and grins. Efficient team work in getting off the carriages and onto next ones - 'OK Lee, you take my big bag, you're more nimble', and moving through the crowds. Me and Nikki then getting our next metro tokens, looking back 'where's Michelle?'.. set back and looking around the station, naturally. So much to make us chuckle, the application of Thai signs to us, with smiles being a key word here (Pack your smiles.. Thailand bringing Smiles).

To the big bag drop off point (a tick off for the plan) where I return with fizzy drinks (to face the 35 degrees outside) - and this would soon settle into our 11am and 3-4pm diet coke pattern - to find a friendly station luggage guy with Michelle's straw hat on, excellent. Again, walking back through the familiar station to once again see them - surreal and giggle worthy.

We were now free, little bags tickling sweaty shoulders and a straw reach away from refreshment as we walk down from the station to China town, via Lee doubts to start, 'hmm yup.. uh, yup yup this way'. We pass murky canals with their tree grabbed houses bending toward the water; through winding China town streets, 'is this someone's front room?'. Past vendors and motorbikes, colourful stalls clustered by kerb.. waterside sofas, huge TVs tucked into modest homes, creeping plants, rusting car parts, oiled hands fixing them up.. Re-used junk, planted and hanging water bottles, chinese character signs, decorated and scarfed trees, 'like a beautiful jumble sale'.

Then past the river boat pier and upto my old hostel's rooftop. Bizarre!



Three thai beers quickly ordered - 2 Leo bottles, 1 Singha draft. Ahhhhh... Our eyes to the stretching bangkok skyline, up the river curvings that were bopped upon by a myriad of boats. Across traditional roof tiles and up modern reach ups, over green patches and rooftop jigsaws, movement.. Cool sips, here we are! Now seated and settled, the promises of telling me their stories through the booking up of the trip to flying over could now be met.

We all felt we could stay here chilling, breezed and slowly beering all day. 'Up to yous?' - no let's go see stuff.



So it was onto the rocking boat pier, amongst uniformed marine staff on lunch breaks, with an orange flag looked out for and soon we are on the Chao river! Zooming along the water beside the colourful long boats steered by bamboo rods, 20p tickets purchased from the nimble vender, looking out, hair blown.. Oh, being told to move down into the seated area, though stubbornly keeping the best views we could. Off at pier 8 for Wat Pho and the Royal Palace grounds.

There was need to go inside these though, Nicki and Mims already demonstrating tip top travelling instincts as we instead walk about the non-ticketed areas. Photos through gaps in the gates, a glimpse of the huge golden reclining buddha, the beautiful structures under the blue skies (much prettier than when I was here myself back in those first travelling days). A photo with the two of them by a Chinese Giant statue I'd particularly liked before - the mischievous appeal of circularity - as Mims' head is then down in a planted tank 'guppy fish!'.



As we walked toward a small local park, Smiles would successfully apply for *travelling task 1 - photos from behind and in the moment. She caught me and Nicki in many great stances and actions today; always nicely framed, filtered through sepia to mono or chrome. Was there any doubt who was the arty one in the team?!

Amongst these busy roads Nicki displayed a skill combination that would mark her as the clear lead for *travelling task 2 - road crossing. Yep, don't underestimate it guys! Nikki saved us a good few hours this trip with her judgement and gap sniffing out, that captain's armband almost reappearing as she'd give us a nod or a hand out to hold us back!

Into the park, and perching on a beautiful creeping tree's branches.. before seeing its ants city and moving to a chess table. It was time for a snack exchange - Thai banana buns and, oh my, British cereal bars! The lap crumbles and dry mouth kind, my favourite. Suncreaming up (we were consistently hot on this), though sorry to disappoint you guys but here I had settled on squeeze tubes - no 'spray spray' sessions. Sleepily we took in the relaxing spot, a monitor lizard to spot in the water, he stared knowingly back at us, did he suss we were new to this? We walked around the palace grounds, gleaming tiles and prancing towers behind the huge white walls. Scampering through an umbrellaed tourist legion, hearing the middle of a tannoy speaker as we passed the palace gates - '..please don't trust anyone..' !



On the boat back down Mims found herself right in the splash zone! The foreboding of *Mims' clothing issues and the wet dog smell* for our trip maybe? Soaking cargo shorts and a cool down. We of course had to grab a tuk tuk experience, so the penultimate part of our Bangkok whizz was a squashed bottom ride within disco lights and colourful leather as we meandered up to the station.

Big bags back on backs, and a taxi to the other airport.. their day's third, fourth airports and a third country ahead..





2) Wide-eyed in Hanoi

Let's step back a little, because the Don Muang airport was an experience itself. Michelle would liken it to a cash&carry, or the lidl of airports. We'd be suspended in our check in queue a while, taking in the frantic about us. A group of Vietnamese, led by an intriguing and bomber-jacketted power woman, must have had 30 big boxes and packages which were being systematically wrapped with tape, security checked and weighed, then insisted as carry on. We were entranced. And we would follow this group and their electrical appliances and miscellaneous item packages 'a generation game conveyer belt' right through to the luggage reclaim the otherside. Once through the airport steps, via a little nervousness at our modest email print outs and new visa requirements (thanks transparent plastic wallets), we sussed this was our chance for some Thai food. And we did try, up and down the food courts, past meh inspiring rice and sauce tubberware boxes, watch checking... But okay, Subway it was!

The clouds and sunset underlay as we left Bangkok's floors were stunning. We all got some sleep, thank godness for Michelle bless her (having had a torrid flight from london, with a plane nemesis). And I was glad on reawakening to see that we had all managed to grab our flight snacks, placed on our open-mouthed tables, between dreams.



We were in, 8pm, early, Hanoi awaited!.. There was a lovely keenness about us to get to our hotel, spruce and venture out for that beer. Though that didn't stop me trying out my soft haggling skills, mentally pushing out my fingers and clicking knuckles - and pushing three! taximen to just drive off. Needless to say, we took the next one. Nicki and Mims would later tell me how my 'best price' line had a slight, generic 'foreign' accent, oh lord it totally did.

Our driver's attempts to stick right under the speed limit had us a little on edge 'are we therrre yet?' Peering out, hearing the tweeting beeps that we'd become so accustomed to, and turning through the teasing dark evening into Hanoi Old Town Hotel.

Michelle and Nicki very kindly said they'd sort our first two nights, and what a treat. Lifts! A huge room of a king and two doubles! Bed sashes!(Classic 'Nam) Free Breakfast! And mismatched furniture (this had been one of Michelle's key draws and she was excitedly describing it as she moved about and scoped the room). The duvet and pillow were the best I could remember.



Some clothes washed and hung on the curtained window. A reception map marked and off we went. Here Nicki would claim *travelling task 3 - orienteering with paper map*. These skills would later encompass reading from a crumbled paper slip on the back of a motorbike, and about Hanoi we always found our places.

And so we headed to the circled area of eats and beers.



The night streets were cool and misty - i was enjoying the novelty of dry pits and fresh face, Nicki chuffed at being able to just walk out in a tee. And even in this limited light there was so much to take in. Carefully piled shop items in open fronts where one unaccustomed touch could send it all tumbling. Streams and beams of mopeds, topped by waterproof-caped super-riders between the the less certain feet. Teeny stalls, red yellow and blue, sat upon easily by people of all sizes with little bowls and glasses. The pointed straw hats of Vietnamese traders, their shoulders balancing bamboo scales of rice bags, fruit loads, sweet doughy treats or plastic toys.

A huge lit sign caught our eyes at the street end 'Beer2KU', oh dear we said, typical tourist spot we tutted. But no, on closer inspection there were beer bottle lights hanging down, music whose lyrics we did not understand, cool outside mismatched tables, a mixed crowd. In we went. Three sweetly greeted Hanoi beers, clink, and we picked out three dishes. We chose well! I was so chuffed they liked morning glory as one of my favourites, then a Hanoi speciality of riced shellfish was a corker - maybe because it basically mixed rice krispies with the huge prawns - and the beef noodles were so flavoursome. This was also a chance to suss out *chopstick skills - all pretty able, but prone to rice misses, and I can comment later on who shall take home the trip's most improved chopsticker award.



This was our first foray into Vietnam, and we were happy, what more does one need than a nice spot, good food, cool beer and top friends. Plus, you know, the WiFi code?

I'd shake my head a little at times that yes, we were here, with newness and adventures ahead together. I thought of the scribbled note photo Michelle had sent me the other week - zig zags between Hanoi, Cat Ba, Phong Nha and Hoi An, short annotations of days, a big sweeping line completing the dot to dots. Looking back now, I'd like to keep that note as the best of souvenirs.



This spot was also grand as I was to have 2 further reunions, both popping in (and thus popping out my eyes and popping me out my chair) almost at the same time. Though obviously, for such a shy, reserved, socially awkward person this was.. brilliant! Charlotte who I met in Kratie teaching came in and it was so lovely to see her again. Plus I could proudly pass over her straw hat companion of five years (I'd managed to get it here with its ready creases still in place!) Then the blue-haired wonders bound in! A group hug just as we'd excitedly talked about. Beers, chat, it was nicely strange to have these friends all here about me, catching eyes and smiling, shaking heads. It was truly sweet and emotional to see Sam and Becca again, our three weeks in Laos some of the best time I've had, and I'd missed them.

Nicki and Michelle had been basically up for 36! hours, they gladly went and crashed, first removing bed sashes and giving those wet clothes a squeeze. I sat out with Becs and Sam a while, catching up and finding a small opening to get in and join a lively atmosphere selling beers. Sitting on our own little table and chairs set behind a stop front to appease local police. A very grand catch up.

I crept back in our hotel! room, and found them both sound.. maybe a little snoring, no names.

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Morning! Looking across the room and seeing Nicki peering out of sleepy eyes thinking of the day ahead, casual nod; further over Michelle is twisted in the duvet, bum to the ceiling. An easy morning, missing the breakfast slot but pounding out energetically into the day. Again we spotted a large Santa sticker on a nearby shop window and he'd come to jollily mark our nearly home point.

About the day time streets our eyes were so wide, mine wider than they had been for a while. Sometimes we'd walk in sync quietly taking things in ourselves, consumed; other times pointing together or blimey-ing, haha-ing - this city is an assault on the eyes, amazing. Telecom wires paralleling overhead, tall thin buildings of different colour single blocks piled up, paint smudged and crumbled, art work sprayed on.. Tree branches reclaiming spaces in the walls, beep - a moped by our toes, another swindling around us. Trade, eating, discussions; crowd watching eyes from stalls, consumed faces in chatting groups sat on roadsides. Our heads rolling about, looking up, between and around. We grabbed our first banh mi - Vietnamese baguettes - pate, eggs, meat, salad (no coriander please!), chilli sauce. Delicious. We wiggled through the bustling streets where here different streets specialise in different products - biscuits, coffee, shoes, north face gear, leather, kitchen appliances, fans.. And reached the lake.



Hoan Kiem lake was a calming piece set off from the twistingly layered streets. Wide paths, rising fog, drizzled roads, character trees lining the water. We took a view, through the mist, and ventured into a building reminiscent of a charmless British town shopping mall and office block combination. Up a well used lift to a high balcony for coffee at 'Vietnamese soul cafe'. Here our phrase of 'authen'ic 'Nam' came into real being as we looked over at the standard coffee joint across the corridor and sat here instead for a cool atmosphere. Great views, great coffee.. and all controlled by the doorbell buzzer we were given to get the staff's attention just metres away - Nic was the keenest buzz presser!

Onto the lake we walked about, catching the Den Ngoc Son temple, over a cute bridge and clambering up the rocks. Then seeing Turtle Tower's aging stone layers and shrinking windows on a small island. Again, being well versed travellers we didn't pay temple entry, oh no, but got the views we wanted (via near rock climb slips, Nicki below impersonating our insurance claims!)



One of my favourite movements from the trip was from having Michelle slightly behind us taking snaps and then, approaching a road, she'd suddenly sprint ahead wildly over the crossing (8m sprints being her speciality of course). It tickled me every time!

Then one of our funniest early moments was Mims' first haggle and buy - I present here her award for 'getting the deal done regardless of your sidekick's response'. Pop out cards with intricate designs had caught Mims' eyes, the seller was keeping up persistently, toe to toe, whilst the Vietnamese Dong rates were still a bit of an unknown. 'Leeeeee..' Michelle called from back down the lakeside path, ''oww much were these in the shoopps?' I see Michelle and the seller paused in action, and reply honest - that I wasn't looking at the price, but that there were loads of them. Great insight there. I had clearly just missed her raised eyebrows, insistent open eyes sending help blinks, and slow nods.. 'Oh, er 50K ish'. The card was bought now anyway, through a name and story swap and a claim to the first card sell of the day, and a nice price agreed. All were happy, Michelle caught back up with her card tucked away and we laughed, 'Leeeeee..'! Haggle and buy no.1.



We went to the women's museum and found some interesting displays here, whilst a set of quite shocking gender equality stats and satirical comic style graphics were presented outside - from the legal standpoint that sexual assault is valid only when one is underage, to the crazily widening boy:girl birth rates (these seemed implausible and made us want to find out more) and to the skewed political and workforce representation.

We often got lost from eachother in the museum's display pathways - a loo stop, a quick zoom downstairs for WiFi. So Mims didn't know you could try out the traditional rice breaking tool tucked in one corridor, Nik had it down though. Whilst Mims would shoot back or me forward to share something in the brilliant section on female cadres, heroes, fighters, intelligence gatherers and leaders through the revolution and war (40% of guerilla soldiers were women). There were some incredible personal stories, where the system seemed quite ready to recognise their efforts and elect them to key positions in the party, whilst today female political representation is very low. Another part I will remember well was a documentary on Hanoi's street traders who are predominately women. Their stories often involved coming to Hanoi for weeks on end to sell produce away from their families and villages, of lost or ill spouses and other relatives, a strive to survive and get their children through school. Even though it would mean leaving them for long chunks of time, in a place they aren't most fond of. It was moving and humbling.



We then ventured through further exciting streets, via a diet coke pit stop, to the revolutionary museum. There were indeed some incredible artefacts - letters, clothing, stories, weapons, photographs - but it was lacking in a clear chronology and big picture, say a photo showing a p.o.w release but no explanation of who, why.. and a map with fancily lit up sections with no information (we'd reference this lit up map a lot during our trip!) The museum was also caveated with a Northern take on things, the hero of Ho Chi Minh reclaiming places right down to Saigon (definitely called HCMC up here) and the feeling that the South had turned from other Vietnamese and to the US. So, we took to wikipedia! Reading through the different sections between us, crowding about Niks as she scrolled through the 1850s with the French arriving, through to Japanese control in WW2, the north south split, the rise of South communism, the American War through to the fall of Saigon and an invasion of Cambodia to oust Pol Pot and the Khmer rouge. A lot to take in, more than quite interesting.

One of the things I remember is the museum's claim that both the French and Americans used the guillotine in the wars, carrying it around with them, surprising, horrific. And discussing how it would be very interesting to see a similar museum in the south. What we came to realise though is that the Vietnamese have long been in wars, and trying to defend and move on from invaders - ruled by China for 1,000 years, through many battles; and, in finally winning some independence and seeing the French start to move out, their power vacuum was then used impatiently by others to pursue their global aims.



Ooh! We then realised we really should get our intended trip to Hualong Bay / Cat Ba island sorted for the next morning. We agreed, get that done then we've a celebratory beer and an easy night ahead. That's holibobs for you.

Nicki map reading, we popped into trip places on the way up, 'okay, but if we look at the best price..'. I felt like we were an amateur (but pretending otherwise!) team from the apprentice - me and Niks tag teaming on questions, Michelle listening in (good cop, bad cop, mysterious cop). Then we got to a recommended agency and they really looked after us, green tea and all. On walking out we all knew their 2 day all-in trip was probably the way to go afterall. Kayaks! Caves! Staying on an island! A big boat route about the karsts! In. In. In.

Just time for the deal, Michelle got that first beer as me and Niks went to seal it.. Done, and a sleeper bus down to Phong Nha for after. Cheers 😊 From our celebratory beer spot we'd also buy a Ho Chi Minh zipper, and we imagined he'd stay with us as a mascot down to Hoi An. But, no, he would later slip himself out my pocket to stay on the sleeper bus beyond Phong Nha - fair enough, he was simply more of a solo traveller, or maybe he just wanted more kip under the disco lights.

We were all pretty tipsy here as we did a snack stop off for our bay trip (oreos, crisps, large waters, diet cokes - classic Nam) and grabbed beers for our room sess packing up for tomorrow. The next day we'd feel like greedy buggers with our big snack carrier bag as we joined others for our very well catered adventure!

Sam and Becca came up too, to our huge suite! And once bags were zipped and patted we all headed out for dinner at one of their favourite places, 1946. 1946 was delicious and cool, outside were a gathering of uniformed army guys (we were pretty sure they were authentic) and up, upstairs we had a floor table with cushions and a low ceiling. Foodie Sam took the lead, reading the menu and thinking out loud, Becs turning over the imaginary egg timer... Crab hot pot, morning glory, mountain veg stirfry and little grilled fish, with sharp rice wine to cheers Vietnamese style through our yummy meal. And more chopstick skill points all round. Delicious.

Before long we walked up the Khao San road equivalent here (similarly named), and past the rowdy bunches we settled on a spot, with shisha too. Honestly, there was a disappointing point here, as a poor man approached our table to sell some mementoes. We didn't want any but then it became clear he just needed a bit of money, he had a bad leg too. But we just froze, no one reaching into bags to get some or to ask others.. I'm not sure why, the curse of communal responsibility, passiveness. As he wandered away I could feel a mutual sigh of ah that was terrible of us, a pause. We'd talk about it the next day on Cat Ba, of what it's about, how to just be kind and aware.

To bed, a big day and early start ahead. I stayed up with Becs and Sam, walking and sitting about the lake, it was really special, not knowing when we'd see eachother next, and Bec heading home very soon after ten months on the move. But no ifs.. we knew we had time ahead together.

I crept back in, stirring them a little. But the next morning we were impeccable - up, no prods or moans, no rushing, and time for a coffee in the hotel's breakfast slot!





3) Mists, Karsts and cold water curses

And we're off.

A bus takes us, napping and reading over breakfast, to a modest, creaking port; and with the British weather about us, we felt we could just tag ourselves on an isle of wight ferry port! For me, it had a likeness to the riverside back home - boggy, abandoned boats, a lack of care, though the plants contented to be left alone among rubbish. Not that we were worried (beyond seeing trash being swept into the water), we got stall coffees and eagerly awaited our boat. We had a nice size group of 8, though we were keeping much to ourselves for now! Whilst Michelle's game of picking out characters who immediately poke at being annoying begun, the game continues in open minded observation. We'd guess who she picked out, usually spot on. Our guide Philon was caring and generous with his time and passion for the area, keen for us to enjoy. He'd be quick to apologise about the tiniest things later but we had the funnest time and there was no need at all.

We settled on seeing this boat trip as a misty, enigmatic adventure - mysterious karsts appearing beautifully in turn and then disappearing behind - rather than the blue skies, clear views and sunned faces one might imagine.

Up top, we found our boat's sweet spots. Rained on seats but look out spots, wind blown heads, ropes to hold, to feel the elements. Looking out together, with serious (silly) horizon gazes, or exploring about. Our boat was consumed in by the karsts at their will, sucked into the blurred distance. Moving slow, yet karst upon karst wrapping about us.



Upon our boat a map is rolled down for the group (no flashing sections though!) and Phil tells us the tales of Halong and Cat Ba. The karsts are actually mostly named, which seemed incredible given there were 1,969 of them - named by sailors and often simply by how they looked at certain boat approaches.. the monkey head karst, the goat, the lion paw, the ship wreck, the Lee, Nicki and Mims trio (tall, taller and littler). Just like cloud spotting or the constellation pictures, they could be universally understood at the right point, even if it required a few head twists and eye squints (yep, got it). Later Michelle would name one the prepared steak karst, complete with diagonal slits, salt rub in, it totally worked. Others had a rippling of different coloured stone, all of course created under the sea and heatedly pushed up between plates hundreds of million of years ago. It was strange to think that the land, the sea, was still evolving now.

It was in this area where many battles were fought with the Chinese, we imagined scenes of beautiful boats creeping from about the forested karsts in mist like today, epic and bloody. Halong bay was an area where many of the soldiers would be based, with military dens, and Cat Ba 'women's island' was the biggest offshore spot where families would become based, the women moving here to support, produce food and stocks. The saying here that behind every soldier, a strong woman. Whilst the mythical Vietnamese tale, which i liked most of the stories, was of the mother dragon and her 9 children - a set of karsts now sleeping, but when the Vietnamese had needed (or will need) them the dragons broke from slumber. They would create a powerful dance through the water, flicking away enemy boats and creating a ring of protection for Vietnam, impenetrable and knowing. It was very grand, day dreamy.



We arrived at a kayak spot, and here the mist was at bay, and the true lushness of the area could be enjoyed. The kayaking was brilliant, me and Nicki in one, and Mims (with sleeves well rolled up) in another with Julian. We'd move through 'light cave' a gorgeous opening through the rocks where above us giants' heads peered in, and melting formations seemed suddenly paused. Ahead the light created a green panoramic. Into 'dark cave', a trickier row, pushing back off rocks to the side and in the water. And with a 'determined screwed up face' I rowed in the front and Nikki behind with suave turns for us to pick up speed and overtake like champs, slinking through the cave.. 'Mind the rock!' called Michelle - too late, we were stuck on it! My bad. More gritted faces and tensed arms as we got off the rock in full view of the waiting next group, and those being majestically rowed by small women criss crossing oars on huge bamboo rafts.

Through dark cave was calm lagoon, it was stunning. Philon's voice echoed magically around us, in an area of rare and endangered monkeys. None spotted. It was quiet and the water settled, mmm. Fresh air and peace. Bopping about in the big landscape. I had been very insistent on leaving cameras on the boat given my last kayak outing!.. but we'll remember this beautiful spot well.

In a seemingly longer ride back out to the boat, our two teams played bumper kayaks and begun a race with Oxbridge rowing commentary, then bringing in English football tones: 'This really has been a match of two halves.. I see more twists in this battle though Geoff.. That's exactly why she's first on the team sheet.. the crowd really has been the 12th man today..' Hilarious.

Time to spot huge fish below the walkway back, to pose action shot with the grounded kayaks in our anoraks (Mims bag sorting, Nicki beaming as she pushes the kayak forward, me laughing and unfocused).



Our next stop was for swimming. Getting our bikinis on, a beer in and towels placed out ready.

Cool, calm and collected Niks steps up to the boat's high nose, waits for camera ready and jumps in first, no fuss! A big old splash, and a cold grin coming back upto the surface. I take it slow from the boats chin, stepping down then breast-stroking it out, 'Bloody hell!' It was freezing and took our breath away, unlike Nicki I was going to keep the hair out! Mims is next in after capturing us - all in, laughing, foetus positions to keep us warm, shaking our legs, toes lost further down. It was really cool. Back out, towel wrapped, feeling good and refreshed.

Our lunch had consisted of lovely rice, delicious veg and squid, with chips! (we soon learnt these were a staple, even for breakfast). More chopstick skills were gained (barely any lost grains), and now we were glad to be able to have a beer&Oreo or beer&crisp pick me up from our now shrinking snack carrier!



Our boat now headed for our evening and night spot. And it was gorgeous. Our bamboo bungalow was feet from the lapping waves, with a glassed front to view out, huge pointed ceiling, a hot shower and comfy lays. We imagined we could chill here a good few days. This island was a quiet and new spot, with mostly untouched surrounding nature, where the Cat Ba town's lights would soon appear across the water. The main building was an electic mix of hip hop, disco lights and Buddha monuments as you walked in!.. Then ping pong, huge shaggy dogs sat calm by the lovely fires upstairs, large wooden chairs and pretty shells all over the building.

Our evening consisted of delicious oysters (I liked that that my first oysters were eaten in high socks and well worn shorts); the realisation that Mims' swim shorts and anorak were left on the boat (they clearly had an eventful night as they returned the next day with a pungent wet dog smell!); good chats, from our childhood ways to what does handsome really mean?(the big questions..); and a chill/nap in our bungalow as we talked about the serial podcasts and justice, fears.. or, at times, it may have just been me in a monologue as they were both nodding off on each side! Water lapping.

Heading back out refreshed we went to play ping pong (Mims playing mind games and Nicki in consistent form at the table, i was poor) with a fun Irish couple from our group. We then took beers back to continue a la cherrywood balcony. At the late hour Michelle and I would see repeated fluorescent flashes across the waves, 'Well whats that?', we watched intently til the next would come. We investigated (Michelle actually checking out the island lights, me ponderingly twisting my moustache and smoking at our table) and couldn't explain them. But they were beautiful, random.

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Morningg. The pancakes that Michelle had been thinking of since they were mentioned over green tea back in Hanoi were now in touching distance. Bananas, pancakes.. nodding off again! But we did get going, led by a more springy Niks, and the pancakes were great fuel for our tough morning walk up the rocks. It was clear skies and hot hot heat today. Phil led us up wobbling steps, hand grabs and pulls, up steep sharp rocks of the karst, to views from uncertain stands (Nicki holding branch, me balancing into Michelle). It was gorgeously green, coved and fresh from here.. nooks to notice in nearby karsts and the sea to take in. Further up we climbed, to get a 360 view of the clear bay, the bright day.

Here Mims was brave, a Sn-- was spotted meandering back into the bushes, and a fuss was made from one behind 'is that an aniimalll?!' - er, yeh. But Michelle just climbed herself down and continued, eyes fully opened but steps continued. I'd be proud when hearing this back at the bungalow, I was now bounding down to get a good sweat on and get my head on for the day, and to pick up some nice shells from the beach. It was a great way to start the day, its 11am and we'd done something tough, fun and refreshing.



Our trip back to Hanoi begun. Little cute boat- bus(with chicken and chips?!)- longer boat- bus(poor Mims was squished about two non-stop chatterers, peering back we could see her hood up, shades on and earphones in). Two things we learnt on the ride back - whilst Michelle found it tricky to get off asleep on buses, the boats worked wonders, rocking her like a baby 2) That Vietnam has WiFi everywhere. Bussing through the Cat Ba forest, Mims' phone was inexplicably online as she leaned back in her broken seat taking and sending funny snaps.

Back in familiar Hanoi, beep, familiar sounds and smells.. Happy times behind and ahead.



We'd now gotten to the end of our first chunk of Vietnam, our trip of brilliant thirds. The pie chart was filling up in reds, yellow flashes and enchanting greys.

So far, we'd walked right up to Michelle's (self reported) quotas, we'd tested Nicki's newly acquired rowing skills, we'd bypassed a sn--, eaten like a local, fallen back on wikipedia, sampled the start of Vietnam beer, dodged 2 million mopeds, named Halong bay karsts, froze in the historic water and run after lost ping pong balls by the sea.

We had amongst our ranks an arty photographer, an expert road crosser, a paper map reader, a snack hunter-gatherer, a water jumper-inner, an awkward haggler, a transport planner, and a wet clothes curse.



More in part 2.

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